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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    1257
    Quote Originally Posted by miljnor
    I am going to order one of the bigger units from ink express. But will wait to see if smparkinson's come in good condition.
    Ink express are certainly getting steady business from this site! Maybe cnczone could contact them and see if they will give any special offers to members.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1880
    no doubt. Although usually the prices just goes up...

    Companies get successfull and the raise prices. Whats up with that? usually they get bigger and make things cheaper, Must be greedy!

    Everything is alrighty though! just have a moose droole! :cheers:
    thanks
    Michael T.
    "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    6
    Thanks for the suggestion, Miljnor. I think that's a fine idea. The supplier does need to know how his "representative" is representing him. I'll shoot off a little advisory to him right now. Frankly, I don't expect much in the way of satisfaction, but you never know. I'll keep you folks in the loop.
    -Click

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1257

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    6
    There's a lot of good information in those two threads, Diarmaid. Thanks for making them available to me. Maybe by the time I can afford to try again, I will be able to make an informed decision this time. I do plan to try again, it's just that I may have to go back to working for the "man" for a while to replenish my cash reserves a bit.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    50
    Hi Sidi Steve,
    Well, I took delivery of my ie300 unit today. This will be one of the longer days of my life, as this is hardly a plug and play piece of equipment. First, I'll tell you of today's trials and tribulations, than I have a few questions that I hope you can help me with. OK, here goes........
    Two packages were delivered by DHL this morning, one big and one small. The small one was the power supply. As I opened it, a couple of small springs fell into my hand. When I got it opened, there was a grey sheet metal case with lots of dents and it rattled like tons of lose parts. Sure enough, I opened it and everything spilled out. This wasn't a matter of Customs inspection gone wild. This "power supply" had been damaged before being packed. Anyway, aside from being dented and ugly, the switch on the back (115V / 230V) was in pieces. The pieces were all there and I put it back together and snapped it closed. There was no way of knowing if I had reversed the output or not, but I figured that once I knew which setting was which, I could keep it in the right position with a piece of duct tape or something. Since I didn't have an amp meter to check it with, I took a junk mini halogen lamp I had laying around and tried it with the power supply. When it was set to the 115V setting, the lamp went on brighter than I'd ever seen it. Than I tried it on the 230V setting, and the lamp came on rather dimly. I than took the lamp and pluged it directly into the wall recepticle. It went on dimmer than on the power supply set to 115V, and brighter than when it was set to 230V. I'll be the first to admit that I don't know a lot about electronics, but it seemed to me that while the 230V setting was probably closer to the 115V output I was seeking, it seemed the dull lamp light was not getting enough voltage. I tried the same thing with a little exhaust fan I had laying around, and sure enough, the fan turned a lot faster when it was plugged into the wall recepticle than when it was plugged into the power supply set at 230V. Be assured that I will be getting a volt meter before the day is out, and than I'll know the actual output of the power supply in both settings. It goes without saying that I will not be pluging the laser unit in until I have the correct power supply.
    Not plugging the laser unit in until later shoudn't be a problem since they sent me a power cable for Europe and/or Asia(?) I have an extra power cable I found in the garage, so it's no big deal. And it's a good thing that I had that old exhaust fan laying around, because the one they sent me doesn't work no matter where I plug it in. And speaking of cables, the one they sent me to interface between my computer and the laser is the old style parallel port type. I had to pay $39. for a parallel port/USB cable. They say there is an English users manual, but I couldn't find one. Good thing I can download one from their website.
    I was able to load their software into my computer without too much of a problem. I figured that a good way to get familiar with their software would be to click on the "HELP" button. When I clicked it, turned out that all the "help" info is in Chinese.
    Now, my BIG question is this. If it turns out that their power supply will not give me the correct voltage I need to run the machine without damage, would I be able to substitute a computer power supply from a place like CompUSA? And if I need to do that, should I get one that is rated for 500 amps, or will a 250 amp unit do the job?
    Believe it or not, aside from all my *****ing and whining, I'm still not all that mad. I am looking forward to getting things up and running. It's like a lot of other things in life. You deal with the problems, you buy parts and you fix things, and than the things actual work and you've saved some money. Not such a bad way to end the day, assuming everything works out OK. That being said, you can be sure that I have some things to say to the rep at Ink Express. I expect them to make it up to me one way or another. A complementary mini CNC machine would do a lot to smooth things over. (Yeah right)
    In closing, let me thank all you out there who offer information and advise to the people who have questions and technical problems. You're very much appreciated, and I certainly hope I will be able to help someone in the same way one of these days.
    My personal thanks go out to Sidi Steve for sharing his experiences and advise regarding this potentially (hopefully) nice little engraving machine. THANK YOU!
    Sincerely,
    Steve Parkinson
    ([email protected])

  7. #67
    Hey Steve -

    Well, it arrived rather quickly! That is a good thing. Sorry to hear that it was less than perfect. So frikkin frustrating. I do hope you can figure out a way to get Ink Express to make it right.
    My transformer was also in a state of disassembly. I thought it was due to "Customs inspection gone wild", but mine wasn't as bad as yours. Sounds like it works, tho.

    I just went out to mine with a voltage meter.
    This transformer can be used to convert 110v ac to 220v ac. Inside there are 2 coils, one with 2x as many winds as the other. So, it can also be used to convert 220v ac to 110v ac. Now, since we use 110v ac (really anything from 110 to 120 or so) this transformer will convert it to 220v ac or 55v ac - either double or half. Make sense? The switch in back should display the input voltage. Mine says "115" meaning that it is getting 110-120 and will output 220-240v ac. The unit runs on +/- 220v ac.

    Inactuality, the voltage coming out of my wall reads around 121v ac and the voltage I read post transformer is 233v ac. That gets plugged into the laser engraver. Inside the laser engraver, the power appears to get directed to 2 different locations. 1 goes to a regulated power supply as the motion control and logic runs on what looks like 12v dc. The power is also getting directed to the laser. I haven't yet measured the voltage going there, as I really haven't wanted to stand there with the unit open and the laser itself ON while trying to make contact with the leads of my volt meter...

    I truly hope this helps

    Steve

  8. #68
    USB v Parallel compatibility...

    Hey Steve - I truly hope that the USB to parallel cable solution works. Let me know either way on that one.

    First, let me ask, is your software called Moshi or MoshiSoft or somesuch like that?
    Second, is your computer laptop or desktop?

    My experience is that Moshi only works with LPT1 (not even LPT2) . You can see in my previous posts, that I have made many attempts to control the unit outside of LPT1, to no avail.

    Let me know if you have a problem controling the unit and I will try to help.

    ----

    About the transformer...be careful in selecting one. Like I mentioned, this is a transformer for changing voltage, from 110Vac to 220Vac. It is also rated for 600VA.
    (That is what it says) Mine gets pretty warm. Now, I am not really great at explaining electronics, but I believe that in order for that 40w laser to "lase" there is a transformer within the unit that produces some very high voltage (not unlike the ballast for a fluorescent tube) This transformer probably draws some pretty heavy current. So, should you need to get a new power supply, I'll do my best to help you locate something. But I would suggest steering clear of anything in the 250watt range...

    I should really contact Ink Express and Red Sail and all of those companies...I could do a decent job of representing and troubleshooting their product...

    Out of curiosity, where are you located?

    Steve

  9. #69
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    50
    Hi Steve,
    Just a quick note, and I'll fill you in as I make progress (Ihope). When I hooked up the box between the wall outlet and the laser, the laser toggle switch did glow red. But the test button didn't produce a beam. Also, the X/Y mechanism did nothing. However, after reading the manual again, I noticed it referenced the use of a voltage regulater. I wondered if my box was actually a voltage regulater used to keep the juice consistant, so I plugged the laser directly into the wall outlet. Although the laser head didn't move home, which my old GCC Mercury did on power up, the test button did produce a cutting beam which I tested on a piece of paper. That made me happy.
    Anyway, I'll hopefully get the software up and running and see if that brings the X/Y mechanism to life. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for your help!
    Steve

  10. #70
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    50
    Sorry. I forgot to answer your question! I'm located in the Orlando Florida area, but I work in Vermont and spend more time up there than down here. My wife would much prefer me to move my laser up there, and that is what I will be doing. She's much nicer to me when I do what she says. I think she will be happier when me and my laser are both up there.
    Steve

  11. #71
    Hey Steve,

    Well, either way - Florida or Vermont - it is a bit far for this California kid to take a look at it.

    How are things coming together?

    So, I just disconnected my laser engraver from the computer. Mine, when powered up, will still home itself, even without being connected to the computer.

    Steve

  12. #72
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    50
    Hi Steve,
    The transformer worked out ok. The one they sent me only put out 60 volts, than dropped to 2 volts, than down to o. So I got one at a local place called Skycraft. Cost $50. and is rated at 600 AV. I tested it and it's putting out about 230v or so, and when I power up the laser head goes to home as it should. The laser puts out a nice hot beam when I hit the test button. But that's about it.
    I've played with the software and made a test file consisting a series of concentric numbered rectangles so that I could tell exactly what the cutting area is. However, I can't cut it. When I hit the output button, I get a little message that it is outputting, but the laser does nothing. I think it's because of the USB to parallel cable setup, and if that's the case I don't know what to do. I don't mind jumping through a few hoops to get this thing up and running, but this is getting rediculous. Please help me!!!

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1880
    as stated earlier I don't think you will be able to use the USB-Parallel cable, as I don't think their software is setup for it.

    you will probably have to get a pci card with a parallel port to make the software work.
    thanks
    Michael T.
    "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"

  14. #74
    Hi Steve

    You are SO CLOSE to getting this to work. You will be cutting soon.

    Here is the deal as I see it.

    When you open the moshi software, on the upper left there is the file tab.
    When you click on file, there should be a "System Options" or "Options" that
    you can click on.

    This will bring up a Systems Option dialog box.

    With the box open, click on the "select port" tab.

    The upper most option is the key. Although it appears that there are options,
    really it seems that ONLY LPT1 works. LPT1 is your systems primary parallel
    printer port. LPT2 won't work and neither will com1 (serial). I checked out
    the backend of their software and the output supercedes regular windows
    protocol (at least in win98) and takes direct control of the lpt1 port. Kinda
    weird and different than a regular printer or plotter. You NEED to have a
    parallel port. So, if you don't have a parallel port, there are 2 things you
    might try.

    1. Go to compUSA or other and buy a parallel card. Usually they are cheap.
    Follow the instructions (Generally, open box, install card, power up, install
    software and restart) Now you have a parallel port. Right click on my
    computer, click on hardware, click on Device manager, scroll down to "Ports
    (COM & LPT) click on the "+" and be sure LPT shows up as LPT1. if you have no
    LPT1, then see if you can find instructions for LPT1 assignment.

    Remember, you NEED LPT to be LPT1.

    Once you have LPT1, then set moshi to LPT1.

    If ADDING a parallel port to your computer fails, then try buying a cheap
    computer from craigslist or other used source. Mine runs on a $25 Pentium3
    running windows98. They can be had cheap. If you find several, stay away from
    NT as there is no USB support and you will still need USB for their dongle to
    work.

    Once you have functional parallel port, things should work.

    I gotta run out for dinner, but I'll be back in a bit.

    Good luck

    Steve

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1257
    Hi. This info is all really facinating, and Steve P I hope you get up and running soon. Im sure its no consolation but at least the info from your problems is and will be helping others who haven't bought yet (Me), and who look at this thread in future. Thanks.

    One question. Did either of you buy specific protective goggles for using with this? If so, where did you get them. If not, what are you using, or are they needed at all. Thanks.

  16. #76
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    50
    Hi guys,
    I can't say enough about how helpful you all are with your suggestions. Having spent most of yesterday fooling around with the laser, I have neglected to take care of my household duties. I am home on a "vacation" from my work up in Vermont, which means that my wife expects me to work around the house while she is at work. If I don't take care of things around here before she gets home, she'll be hitting me with that rolling pin again.
    One thing good about the domestic work. It's mindless stuff which gives me time to think about important things, like will I ever get this laser to cut? And, when I get this laser to cut, will she (the wife) make me get it out of the living room? And, will I ever be able to make a little money with this laser once I get it works?
    I wanted to use this unit with my laptop, which doesn't have a parallel port. It does have a knock out cover for a slot showing a parallel port icon, however, when I removed the cover, there was no parallel port outlet. Didn't look like there was room to plug in a card/port either, but I know everything in laptop's is miniaturized, so I'm hoping I can go that route if it doesnt cost too much. I would certainly be prefer to control the laser with the laptop, but if that can't be done I guess I'll have to go the used desktop route. That is IF I can find a machine that has both parallel port for the laser AND a USB port for the software key.
    Now I am starting to wonder if there would be a cost effective way of just using the mechanical components of this machine, and obtaining / installing control electronics that would be more user friendly. It would be really nice to be able to "print" directly from Corel Draw or Autocad. When I had my GCC Mercury machine, one of the features I really liked was that you could control different segments of the job by assigning them with color coded parameters. Each color could be controled by assigning specific values like speed, laser strength, PPI, etc. In effect, you could actually give your work a little bit of 3D effect. It also worked well to have the job do raster first, than cut out the rastered parts in vector mode.
    Anyway, if anybody has any ideas about replacing the electronics as described above, please let me know your thoughts. I should tell you that I know next to nothing about electronics. Any electronic retrofit would have to be plug n' play with a minimum of set up. If this is possible in a cost effective way, it could open up new doors for this machine. Think in terms of buying directly from the manufacturer in China with no controm electronics installed. The price would be lower, and the electronics could be chosen by the purchaser's preference.
    I really want to here from you guys on the above prospect. Is there an electronics
    control package out there? Would it be inexpensive enough to make it a cost effective change? And would it be easy enough to install and matchup with a software package to make it a viable alternative to "Moshidraw" and the laser as it now exists?
    I will be scouting around for the parallel port fix today, and hopefully I will be lasing by the end of the day. Again, I very much appreciate everyones support out there, and I will keep you posted as the IE300 story continues to unfold.
    Thanks again for your help!
    Steve (smparkinson)
    [email protected]

  17. #77
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1257
    Glad to hear your still plugging away Steve, sounds like your close to getting up and running.

    Re the electronics, unfortunately I cant offer any advice but what you say certainly sounds do-able to my uninitiated mind, although it may involve quite a bit of work and time. You should contact the moderator 'Al The Man'. You'll see his posts in the electronics forum threads. Maybe pm him. I dont know if he'll be any help, but he certainly gave me great advice on electronics problems before. Maybe post a new thread in that forum also and see what comes up as those guys would probably know better than any general laser people in this forum.

    Have you re-evaluated your position on the RedSail 3040A laser engraver since you bought this one, or do you still think you were better off not risking it? Im wondering because any opinions either way will affect my decision on which one to go with and I have to say that your experience is chasing me away from the IE300. Thanks.

  18. #78
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    174
    Finding a used PC with parallel port/usb to get the system going as intended makes alot of sense. It appears you are trying to work through too many variables at this point. Retrofit of electronics sounds to me like a very bad idea.
    Keep posting your progress.
    Carl

  19. #79
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    50
    Hi diarmaid,
    If I had known than what I know now, I think I would have gone with the Redsale 3040. Although the price is about double of the IE300, the engraving area is about 11" x 16" as opposed to the approx. 8" x 11" of the ie300. That doesn't sound like much of an area, but when you actually measure it out, it is a substantial area to work with. In retrospect, I think that there probably isn't too much difference between Hong Kong and China these days. And if I can work out a plan to take delivery personally up in Canada, there is no doubt that is the route I would take now. After all, I can require a demo of the machine and software BEFORE paying the balance due on delivery. Hindsight is always 20/20, but perhaps others will benefit from my experience.
    Redsail's software, as described by them is called Easycut 2.0 and...... "The Redsail laser system is compatible with Windows-based graphic programs, such as Corel Draw, Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator, Auto CAD and etc."
    I have been in contact with Leo at Redsail Canada, and he is trying to work out some sort of agreement with the company in China. What I proposed to him was that upon placing an order for the model 3040, I would pay $1000. in advance and the balance including shipping upon delivery, which I would take in person at his office in Canada. It's about a 500 mile trip each way for me when I am in Vermont, but if all else goes according to plan, I think a couple of days on the road would be well worth the effort.

    I have found a download link at

    http://www.esplines.com/langenu/downloads_easycut.php

    I'm going to atempt a download of their English version, just to see if is more user friendy, even if it wont drive my ie300. If I can download a usably copy, I'm certainly going to see if I can get it to do anything with my laser. I'll keep you posted!
    Steve
    [email protected]

  20. #80
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    50
    Hi Carlnpa,
    I agree with you about the retrofit of electronics in the ie300. If all else fails and it can be done cheaply, and if it is sure to work, I may consider it. If I end up getting another machine from another company, I might also try a retrofit on the ie300 just to make the two machines compatable. I have a lot of "IF's" going on right now, so I'll just have to keep working and see if I can get things going. I'll try to deal with all my "IF's" in the future if need be.
    Steve
    [email protected]

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