[sabastion]

Just got my HF X2 today. It came with the R8 taper and chuck installed. I need to do one more thing to complete cleaning. I cant figure out how to remove the drill chuck from the R8 taper??
Richard

[hoss2006]

Might be worth reading thru this pdf, especially page 17.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Inf...UsersGuide.pdf
Hoss

[eaglezsoar]

Might be worth reading thru this pdf, especially page 17.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Inf...UsersGuide.pdf
Hoss

Hoss, thank you for posting this link. I think you helped a lot of people
by posting this. So much is available but finding it can be tough.
Thanks again for this and all of your great postings and knowledge.

[hoss2006]

Hoss, thank you for posting this link. I think you helped a lot of people
by posting this. So much is available but finding it can be tough.
Thanks again for this and all of your great postings and knowledge.

Glad to help where I can.
Hoss

[sabastion]

Might be worth reading thru this pdf, especially page 17.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Inf...UsersGuide.pdf
Hoss

Thanks to you I already had that out. I went over it again and still didn't see anything that fits my problem unless I'm just missing it.

Problem

I cant figure out how to remove the drill chuck from the R8 taper??
There is no set screw holding the HF drill chuck in the R8 Taper. Does the drill chuck un screw out of the HF R8 taper or is it in there permanently?
Richard

[hoss2006]

You mean the chuck is out of the mill and you are trying to remove the chuck from the R8 shank?
1st off why?
Some are solid and can't be removed, some are threaded on, most are pressed on a taper.
Hoss

[sabastion]

You mean the chuck is out of the mill and you are trying to remove the chuck from the R8 shank?
1st off why?
Some are solid and can't be removed, some are threaded on, most are pressed on a taper.
Hoss

Why?
Answer...Because the red camel snot shipping grease was every where else so I figured I'd take that apart to clean it too. I dont want red grease oozing out or being slung everywhere when I finally start using it. But if you think it wont be an issue I'll leave it alone and I'll be done cleaning.

[hoss2006]

You don't want to remove a chuck from a taper because 9 times out of 10 you will
wind up with worse runout than it came from the factory and unless you have a press
to reinstall it, it will tend to pop back off easier.
Most find this when they try to use the drill chuck with an endmill and the side load pops
the chuck off, this is a big no no.
The grease can be removed from the nooks and crannies with a brush and degreaser
but your going to have coolant/oil/chips flinging out anyway under normal use.
Hoss

[sabastion]

Ah,ok...thanks hoss. I really appreciate your help and knowledge
Richard

[FunkedOut]

not to hijack or anything but...

my chuck and arbor came in two pieces.
the chuck has a #33JT on it (female).
then i got an arbor with #33JT on one end and R8 on the other.

i cleaned them, oiled them pressed them together with my hands, then put on a block of wood and whacked it with a rubber mallet. have used it plenty with not problems.

are you saying I should press these together in a press? i've got a 12-ton. what are we talking about here?

[mwood3]

not to hijack or anything but...

my chuck and arbor came in two pieces.
the chuck has a #33JT on it (female).
then i got an arbor with #33JT on one end and R8 on the other.

i cleaned them, oiled them pressed them together with my hands, then put on a block of wood and whacked it with a rubber mallet. have used it plenty with not problems.

are you saying I should press these together in a press? i've got a 12-ton. what are we talking about here?

you should be fine with the "whack" method, the press is just extra insurance that it doesnt come apart. a properly ground and clean fit will hold just fine with an amazingly low amount of force during assembly... I assemble mine with a block of wood and a dead blow hammer.

[hoss2006]

I was talking about reinstalling a chuck.
A nice new hole is a good thing to put your taper into, it's when they get dinged up and sloppy
that they need something extra to keep from falling out.
Hoss

[packrat]

not to hijack or anything but...

my chuck and arbor came in two pieces.
the chuck has a #33JT on it (female).
then i got an arbor with #33JT on one end and R8 on the other.

i cleaned them, oiled them pressed them together with my hands, then put on a block of wood and whacked it with a rubber mallet. have used it plenty with not problems.

are you saying I should press these together in a press? i've got a 12-ton. what are we talking about here?

Like mwood3 says that works fine. Just be sure when doing it, that the jaws are opened all the way so they are inside the body. If not you could damage either the jaws or the gears inside the chuck.

[sabastion]

I was talking about reinstalling a chuck.
A nice new hole is a good thing to put your taper into, it's when they get dinged up and sloppy
that they need something extra to keep from falling out.
Hoss

Sorry I couldn't resist
LMAO Hoss...that has soooo many real life parallels.

[hoss2006]

I knew someone would get it,
Hoss

[eartaker]

sabastion,

I think in some cases the chuck/shank's are pressed together and do not want to come apart. I tried using a 20T press to push one apart and it didn't move. I would give up on this and buy another shank if you plan on adding another tool to it.

[Connor]

Arbors really aren't suppose to come off once installed. In fact, the best way to install one, is to put the Arbor in the freezer for a while, then install it onto the chuck. Freezing the arbor makes in contract, and once installed it will expand locking into place.