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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Electronics > CNC Machine Related Electronics > Could I see some pics of how your wires/cables exit the electrical cabinet?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    300

    Could I see some pics of how your wires/cables exit the electrical cabinet?

    There are a lot of pics of machines & wiring, but no pics of where the cables & wires exit the cabinet.

    The multi-pin panel mount plugs look good. They just caused a lot of problems on my Hurco, by working loose & corroded connections.

    My thinking is perhaps a grommet through the panel and then have a external box with another grommet on the bottom for the cable to come through.

    Maybe this will work the same way a weather-head connector to a house works.

    There are some outdoor plug-in covers, for home use, that might do what I am wanting.

    Before anything, it would be nice to see what some of the people here have done.

    There are probably some real great, yet simple ideas that make us want to kick ourselves.

    Thanks in advance,

    JAckal:cheers:
    Everything is bio-degradable, if you run over it enough times with the lawnmower.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24221
    As a general rule, the main reason for cable disconnects entering an enclosure is for portability where the machine has to be shipped in pieces, if it is one unit or to remain in one place then 1/2" conduit strain reliefs are commonly used, these are ordered with the right size rubber compression grommet at the time of order, they take from 1/4" to around 1/2" dia cables, you can obtain these from any electrical supply house, it is handy if you have access to a K.O. cutter to make the holes, these are a compression punch that goes from 1/2" to about 2" conduit size and make short work of making the right size holes.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    0
    My BOSSV had the rubber grommet strain reliefs, and they work great.

    However, when I rewired it and gutted the electronics, I went with 1/2" flexible metal conduit, from the motor or switch housing to the cabinet (both already had 1/2" threads/knockouts.) The conduit makes it easy to pull wires through and offers great protection.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    24221
    Quote Originally Posted by Huckmeat View Post
    However, when I rewired it and gutted the electronics, I went with 1/2" flexible metal conduit, from the motor or switch housing to the cabinet (both already had 1/2" threads/knockouts.) The conduit makes it easy to pull wires through and offers great protection.
    Yes, that too!
    You can get it in metallic or non-metallic liquid seal.
    You can also get super flex if it is fed to something constantly in motion.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Don't have a picture handy of the finished panel, but here is a work in progress as I was testing the connections:



    Those are microphone connectors. They seal pretty well and have plenty of connections. The panel was engraved with a spot drill. Spots and center drills both make decent engravers in a pinch.

    Cheers,

    BW
    Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
    http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    300
    Guys,

    Thanks for all of the info. I have some metal flex conduit. It isn't weatherproof, though.

    Bob W,

    How will you seal that panel to the enclosure? A gasket or maybe a fine bead of silicone?

    By the way, you have a fantastic site CNC Cookbook: Blog.

    It has been a lot of help and gives great ideas.

    JAckal :cheers:
    Everything is bio-degradable, if you run over it enough times with the lawnmower.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Jackal, I didn't bother with sealing. The panel is not in a location where it is likely to get splashed by anything, so there is just an overlap of the panel to the cutout.

    If I were worried about it, I would probably use some gasketing cement of some kind. I'm pretty shy about plain silicone RTV in the shop--the fumes corrode the heck out of anything they come in contact with. But there are variants that don't have corrosive fumes (that vinegar smell we all know and hate!).

    Best,

    BW
    Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
    http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    300
    Bob,

    I'll have to watch for that. There was a lathe in a shop where I worked years ago, that had many problems. An electrician came in and said there was silicon gobbed all around the wires to keep coolant out. It had dissolved some stuff. He told me then to never get it on the wires.

    Thanks for telling me about the fumes. I'll be sure to avoid the vinegar smelling sealers.

    JAckal :cheers:
    Everything is bio-degradable, if you run over it enough times with the lawnmower.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    3447
    I used the ebay connectors. Dirt cheap and work wonderful.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMAG0278.jpg  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    2141
    Quote Originally Posted by diyengineer View Post
    I used the ebay connectors. Dirt cheap and work wonderful.

    Do you have a link to those?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    3447
    Quote Originally Posted by doorknob View Post
    Do you have a link to those?
    Military Gold 5-Pin Twist Male Female Connector,5PF | eBay

    Ok so that is the link to the 5 pin. They have everything from 2 pin, all the way up to like 35 pins!!

    I went with the 12 pin models. Super high quality.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    2141
    Quote Originally Posted by diyengineer View Post
    Military Gold 5-Pin Twist Male Female Connector,5PF | eBay

    Ok so that is the link to the 5 pin. They have everything from 2 pin, all the way up to like 35 pins!!

    I went with the 12 pin models. Super high quality.
    They look very interesting - did they combine postage (if you bought multiples)?

    I'm not sure from the photo - Do those plugs have a "bayonet" twist mount?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    3447
    Quote Originally Posted by doorknob View Post
    They look very interesting - did they combine postage (if you bought multiples)?

    I'm not sure from the photo - Do those plugs have a "bayonet" twist mount?
    They do combine shipping if you email him i believe. They all shipped together.

    One side is a flat flange, so you can attach it to a flat surface.

    The other side is a twist lock connector. Slide the conenctor on and about a 1/3 turn of it locks it on. Pretty slick for being such low cost. the pins are solid as well. They took all sorts of heat from the soldering iron with no problems either.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    300
    Those do look pretty good!!!!!

    JAckal:cheers:
    Everything is bio-degradable, if you run over it enough times with the lawnmower.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24221
    Keep in mind that any connector if it will not really be needed for future moving of the machine is just another source of potential contact problems, the up side though is if you have to swap motors encoders etc for diagnostic purposes.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    300
    Yeah,

    I've had too much trouble with the factory connectors. These might be nice for something else, like on a trailer connector.

    After the hassle on the Hurco factory connectors. I want straight thru cables.

    JAckal
    Everything is bio-degradable, if you run over it enough times with the lawnmower.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    3447
    Quote Originally Posted by Jackal66 View Post
    Yeah,

    I've had too much trouble with the factory connectors. These might be nice for something else, like on a trailer connector.

    After the hassle on the Hurco factory connectors. I want straight thru cables.

    JAckal
    Straight through is definitely the safest option. No problems here though, these suckers are tough!

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    334

    Tyco Electronics

    If you have the patience, Tyco connectors are excellent.
    TE CONNECTIVITY | 211400-1 | CPC Series 1 Reverse Free Hanging Plug 7 Position Circular Plastic Connector - Future Electronics

    Hope this helps,

    Iron-Man
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC Cabinet 4.jpg   CNC Cabinet 8.jpg  

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    300
    I'll keep those in mind for other electronic projects.

    I 'm thinking about an external box that will protect the cables coming out of the cabinet.

    It works like the outdoor weatherproof covers that people use on their house, so they can have something plugged in, and it's weatherproof.

    Where the cables exit my cabinet, if something fell ie: wrench, hold down clamp,vise handle, etc., it would break the connector off. It is in an area where coolant will drip and oil will seep.

    There will be a drawing in a few days.

    Thanks for all of the ideas.

    JAckal:cheers:
    Everything is bio-degradable, if you run over it enough times with the lawnmower.

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