[Norsksea]

Hi Gerald
The variable speed control of the 1 hp DC motor is controlled manually by the knob next to the E-stop button. Pushing in the E-stop button will turn off the spindle speed from a different wire leads than on the wiring diagram.
The digital readout was bought from http://www.mkctools.com/tachoptions.htm for $59.95. I made the enclosure from aluminum and mounted the sensor below the spindle motor pulley.
The wiring diagram and AC power layout below is for my TMC 1000 and may be different from yours. Use at your own risk.
Frank

[ghynes]

Looks very very good Frank!

Thanks for the link to the TACH supplier, I may try one of those myself. I wonder if you might post a picture or 2 of the mounting of the tach sensor. I have played around with a tach with magnetic pick-up on my machine but as yet have only set it up on a temp arrangement to calibrate the knob so I know what the no load speed is for any given setting on the knob and have made a chart of this. At some point I would like to have software control of the spindle speed(and direction) on both the mill and the upcoming lathe project but that is aways away for sure! I see you have used a CAMPBELL breakout board, are you totally pleased with this arrangement? I have a very simple BOB that works ok but I have been considering something a little more sophisticated once I assemble the permanent controller. I wonder what is the type of steppers you used and what current setting you run them at?

cheers
Gerald

[Norsksea]

To take that picture I would have to remove the spindle motor again, sorry but not again. The tach setup is easy and with a tach I just turn the knob and look at the readout no calibration needed.
I an very pleased with my Campbell Breakout board.
The inputs and outputs are optical-isolated
Isolated 5v and ground from the computer parallel port
If the output voltage of the laptop is lower then 5v the breakout board will compensate.
My power supply the gecko's is 50v. The steppers not original (double shafted) and are 3A. There is formula for the gecko to get the right voltage to the steppers. I can’t find it but I had bought 33k-olm resistors when I had it.
Frank

[ghynes]

No Problem Frank,

I had my spindle off awhile back when I I snapped a belt so I know about the process. Can you tell me if the sensor is optical or mechanical? What was attached to the spindle for the sensor to sense? I see on the TACH website thay also have a motorcontroller with a built in TACH that looks kinda neat. I have sent off a few questions to them regarding that.

Yes the optical isolation is what I am after in a new BOB, better safe than sorry for sure. I also like the way yuo did the double shaft motors for a bit of manual control when necessary. I have this arrangement on my CNC router and find it faster than jogging to get me very close and than use the jog to be spot on!

Gerald

[Norsksea]

The sensor is optical and all it needs is the shaft it's reading to be 1/2 shinny and 1/2 flat black.
Frank

[dimaker]

frank, i see you areusing a bob camble breakout board. i just purchased on of these and when i hooked it up the axis do not switch directions regardles of the jog keys pressed.
i have onlythe 110 volt to theboard and the step and dir and common wires hooked to the geckos. i am not getting any dir signal from the breakout board. my pin assignments on mach 3 appear coorect. by the way, my smaller breakout board (10$)works fine. im stumped.

dan

[backyard_cnc]

Dan,

I would recommend you double check the BOB CAMPBELL BOB PCB documentation regarding your pin assignments. I suspect you may find a discrepancy. I had a very similar problem when I transitioned from a Plain XYLOTEX pcb to the same XYLOTEX driven off of the Campbell PCB. The pin config in MACH had to be changed. You must PAY VERY CLOSE attention reading the info or is easy easy for your eyes into tricking you into thinking something is correct when it isn't

I believe mine is set-up:
X Axis: step PIN 2 dir PIN 6
y Axis: step PIN 3 dir PIN 7
Z Axis: step PIN 4 dir PIN 8

You will notice the PIN number differrence from the Step to Dir! this varies from the stock XYLOTEX setup where X is 2&3 Y is 3&4 and Z is 5&6!

Good luck

Gerald:cheers:

[dimaker]

thanks gerald, those were the same as i was using. i talked to bob cambel and he verified those as correct. just for kicks i loaded mach 2 and the board worked fine.i looked at the pin asignments and they were x step 2 dir 3, y step 4 dir 5, z step 6 dir 7. iused these in mach 3 and now everything works great. strange though as i used the pin asignments from his pdf manual. i let him know . anyway now thatthe machine works i want to start thinking about limit switches and home switches.

[wongstein]

Hi folks,

Perhaps I should be starting a new thread, I dunnoh. I just picked up a TMC 1000. I'm glad to read here that it might only be 190 lbs. Two of us slid it up a plank into my station wagon, and it didn't really feel like 350 lbs. It's currently sitting in my car and I'm wondering how I'll get it up the stairs to my spare bedroom which serves as my hobby shop. Can I take the Z axis off and carry it separately? It looks like the Z column can be unbolted as a unit with rails and ballscrew attached. Am I wrong? Has anyone done this? Would I risk messing up the alignment beyond repair? Would the unwiring and re-wiring require soldering or re-crimping?

FYI, I currently run a modded Sherline with a home-built Xylotex box. I think I'll move the stepper controller to the TMC 1000 (THANKS for the wiring diagrams!), but I'm inclinded to keep the installed steppers on the TMC (they're 150 oz/in 200 pole steppers according to the label); I don't see any benefit that would warrant re-wiring the machine for my 179 oz/in Eastern Air Devices steppers. I'm quite impressed with this table already. I removed the Z stepper so this would fit into my Subaru wagon, and turning the ballscrew to move the head is smooth, light, and precise feeling. No perceptible backlash that way - but I'll have to measure to be sure. What a step up from the Sherline!

However, does anyone know how I can use Mach3 or another modern controller application using the TMC controller? This question was asked here before, and I didn't see an answer. So I presume that the TMC controller input signal is proprietary, and more complex (or different voltage?) than a parallel port signal, and is hence, hardware incompatible. And I don't suppose that someone has reverse-engineered the TMC pci card and made drivers to work with Mach3?

Anyway, please let me know if any of you have a suggestion how to lug this up the stairs with just one or two other friends. My stairway is not roomy tight, and there's a landing. I live in an apartment, so I don't have much in the way of options.

Cheers, and many thanks,
Anthony

[Norsksea]

Hi Anthony
If you are talking about ball screw apart on the Z to get the spindle off don't. You can take off the spindle motor if you have not done that all ready.
Are you taking about unbolting the Z column? My TMC 1000 has a 2 inch riser there so it can come off. I never thought about taking mine off though. But even removing that column would cause a lot of aggravation with rewiring.

I did not have the original controller with my TMC 1000 but I would have had to run the mill in dos. When I bought the mill I needed a e-stop from Intellitek so I asked about upgrading. I was told that the control panel was $2000 for and $1500 for a PCI card that would go into a desktop computer running under Windows 95. I don't think anyone is going to refit an original controller.

Is your TMC 1000 mounted on a tray? If so there are holes on each side for pipes for carrying it.

Frank

[44 Echo]

I strapped mine to a hand cart with pneumatic wheels. I pulled, and my step-son pushed...

My stepper motors quit working, first the X, then the Y and Z. I don't know why, and I can't seem to get any troubleshoting advice, beyond the obvious of having the E-stop pushed, or the proximity switch not made.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

44 Echo

[Norsksea]

Hi 44 ECHO
There is also a magnetic switch to make sure the plastic shield is in position.
Frank

[44 Echo]

Thanks, Frank.
I checked that, as well, but still no luck. I can feel the motors being energized, however, they are not being driven. i don't know if it is an issue with the controler, or what. I was wondering if there is any troubleshooting procedure out there.
Jerry

[wongstein]

Thanks Frank. To be clear, I wasn't suggesting to disassemble the ballscrew or rails, just to take the whole Z column off as a unit if possible (as if inserting a base spacer). All the wires enter the Z column, which means I might have to disconnect the X and Y motor wires and limit switch wires. Probably a pain, but I'll take a peak under the back panel and make an assessment. Thanks for the tip about the poles, yes I have a tray and everything. And Echo, thanks for the tip about using a hand cart. I've done that before to lug a 50lb power supply up the stairs and was easier.

Mr. Echo, I have very few ideas what could be ailing your machine, but here goes. I've read the previous posts about the limit switches etc. Did you confirm in your software that no limit switches were triggered? That seems the most likely. Obviously, you have rebooted the whole computer, and the control box (unplug for 10 seconds)? Remove the ISA card from the motherboard and re-insert to clear the physical connection? I hate to say it, but the fact that they stopped working at different times suggests a non-zero chance that you've blown something. Software tends to be more "all or nothing" in my experience.

To check each cable, just unplug it at both ends and use a multimeter (Ohm measurement setting) to make sure that each pin on one end makes a clean circuit with exactly one pin at the other end. And to thoroughly check for a short, check that each pin on one end does not connect to any other pin on that same end.

Is there any chance that your ways are seized? Did you tighten the slides? You should be able to easily turn the stepper motors when the power is off. Maybe mixed up the maple syrup with the motor oil? (Just kidding, that happens more often up here in Canada). Anyway, if that's not it, then your machine is fine, and the problem lays somewhere between your motors and your computer. If that's the case, my advice is to move forward and get a Xylotex or Gecko kit and hook up your steppers to it. If you find out that your steppers are blown, then you had to replace them anyway, and you're still moving forward not back. Your mill is excellent, and fully deserves a modern control system.

[Norsksea]

Hi jerry
Your controller is original? If so, sorry can't help you there never had one.
I disconnected that plastic door switch to be able to see my setup better. I am going to use that limit switch wire to add an adjustable bottom z limit switch on the side of my mill so I can't cut into my vacuum plate again. I ruined a vacuum plate I made when I made a manual adjustment to a cut and did not have the right depth limit. I resumed the cut and before I new it the endmill cut though the rubber seal I lost my part and vacuum plate.
I glad it was a plastic vacuum plate and not a metal vice I cut into.
I'll post pictures when done.
Frank

[44 Echo]

Wongstein:

Yes, I belled out the cables, and the motors are getting power, when I fire it up, however, they won't take instruction. I reset the PCA, and the whole nine yards. When power is off, I can manually turn the ball screws, so it is not seized. It appears to be a communication problem, but I don't know anything else to do, in terms of troubleshooting.

Thanks,

Jerry

[wongstein]

Looks like I was totally mistaken about how to check the wiring. I forgot that the machine has 'tails' and not fully detachable cables, so actually, you'd have to test the wires from the connectors to the stepper motors to be sure.

Jerry, I'll be setting up my TMC controller and software for testing before I switch to Xylotex/Mach3. If I get any inspirations about your problem, I'll let you know.

Maybe I'll post some pics and logs of my TMC 1000 as I convert it over to my Xylotex controller box, which would actually be on-topic in this thread

Cheers,
Anthony

[jskene]

Anthony;

I was able to dismantle my TMC1000 and carry it downstairs to my shop by myself.

I took the motor off, separated the Z column, removed the table, etc.

I just did the same thing with a Prolight 2000, but I needed help moving the base as the Z column does not detach.

-----


I too made the mistake of unscrewing the ball nut shaft. It's pretty easy to reinstall the balls - just don't lose too many.

You remove the recirculating tube and push the balls into the hole until they start coming out the other side. Then you fill the tube with balls and reinstall it. It helps if everything is well greased.

-----

[Norsksea]

With my vacuum plate and end mill installed the original lower limit is not available anymore so I set the depth of my cut through Mach 3. I made a manual adjustment to a cut and did not have the right depth limit. I resumed the cut and before I knew it the end mill cut though the rubber seal, part and vacuum plate. Another time had a computer glitch that stalled my Z axis stepper and Mach 3 for a few seconds which sent the end mill lower than it should have. That was due to the charging circuit in my laptop. I removed the battery and no more glitch.
I made an external adjustable lower Z limit switch on the side of my mill so I can control the depth of the mill. The unit free floats on the two brackets and is locked to the spindle when the spindle is close to the desired lower limit.
I found a NOS Brown + Sharp micrometer head and used so I could adjust the lower limit accurately. The switch had a back cover that was removed and direct mounted it to the side of the base to avoid external wiring.
Frank

[315john952]

I attend a community college and we have one of these TMC 1000. You will have to forgive me, do not have very much cnc exprince yet. My college has one of these machines that is not working. They were going to retire it, but it would make end of year projects if we had this machine up and running. All of the hardware is there, but does not work and is very out dated (DOS). I agreed to do a research paper on this machine to see if I could find some one who was updated the software and to see if some one would share there information.
Thanks.

With my vacuum plate and end mill installed the original lower limit is not available anymore so I set the depth of my cut through Mach 3. I made a manual adjustment to a cut and did not have the right depth limit. I resumed the cut and before I knew it the end mill cut though the rubber seal, part and vacuum plate. Another time had a computer glitch that stalled my Z axis stepper and Mach 3 for a few seconds which sent the end mill lower than it should have. That was due to the charging circuit in my laptop. I removed the battery and no more glitch.
I made an external adjustable lower Z limit switch on the side of my mill so I can control the depth of the mill. The unit free floats on the two brackets and is locked to the spindle when the spindle is close to the desired lower limit.
I found a NOS Brown + Sharp micrometer head and used so I could adjust the lower limit accurately. The switch had a back cover that was removed and direct mounted it to the side of the base to avoid external wiring.
Frank