[revwarguy]

I couldn't do this if all I had was a hack saw to work with. The 4" x 6" metal cutting band saw is getting a real workout.
CarveOne

Yeah, I'm envious, gotta have one. Been keeping my eye out on Craigslist or a deal on a new one. Just out of curiosity, when was the last time you changed the band sawblade? Start of this build? Start of the big table build? Just wondering how long they last. Is a pneumatic or hydraulic cylinder to regulate descent pressure necessary? Seems the more expensive ones have that.

[CarveOne]

Yeah, I'm envious, gotta have one. Been keeping my eye out on Craigslist or a deal on a new one. Just out of curiosity, when was the last time you changed the band sawblade? Start of this build? Start of the big table build? Just wondering how long they last. Is a pneumatic or hydraulic cylinder to regulate descent pressure necessary? Seems the more expensive ones have that.

I bought mine at a Cummins Tool Sale at a local fairground. It's 4" x 6" and has a coil spring to adjust tension on the head. Worthless feature. The spring is under powered and I have to control the cutting by lifting some of the weight off the blade. I like the push and lock vise that it has though.

If I were to buy another one I would go bigger in cutting capacity (6" x 8" or so) and get one with a better means of controlling the cutting pressure on the blade.

Blades last a fairly long time even with CRS. This one cut all of the tubing and bar stock for the big machine and the current build. I have more blades break at the weld joint than wear out. Blades also jump off if not adjusted right. I cut dry because the cutting oils just make the blade jump of more easily. Motor power (3/4 hp) is not an issue on this one, and it barely ever gets warm.

CarveOne

[diyengineer]

Nice!!

[CarveOne]

Nice!!

Thanks!

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

More progress today. I cut four pieces of 3/8" x 6" flat bar to 4" length, for use as X axis bearing plates. These will get some mounting holes and a machined pocket to fit 5/16" thick by 1-1/8" OD and 1/2" ID lead screw bearings.

I removed one of the gantry support plates and started measuring and modifying it to add a left over motor plate and spacers from the Worktable CNC machine R&P upgrade. A hole for the lead screw still needs to be drilled in the gantry support plate. Before I do that I need to study it a little more as far as how to mount the bearings at each end. The large hex head bolts in photo #5 will be replaced with button head socket screws.

The Y axis lead screw will be centered in the rear of the channel, and will be mostly shielded from dust and debris.

The X axis lead screws will be centered in the carriages and will pass between the rails and the gantry support plates.

CarveOne

[.xXACEXx.]

that looks about a million times better than the old one already, of course the old one was built around a cheaper budget ,prolly more in the bearing blocks alone than the whole (older solsylvia) cost to build ,huh?

really lookin solid , looks like something i'd try. you going with the same idea for ''Z'' as the original except with those linear bearings ? or better if we just wait-n-see? lol

[CarveOne]

The Z assembly will look just like the one I built for the big machine. The only real difference will be the length of travel will be shorter. I have a left over piece of precision ground CRS 1/4' x 3" for the Z rail, some 1" x 2" box tube, and a whole motor mount assembly for the top end. I'll leave off the side plates for for this one.

The original Solsylva Z assembly has aluminum angle with bearings for the carriages and has always been too flexy. I was going to make new ones from steel angles one day, but not now. It will stay as it is and the Solsylva machine will eventually be sold locally after I reinstall the 1 start lead screws.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

Getting close to needing some MIG gas. I made the gantry end plates today and fitted them in place so that the rail is square with the table top. I'll have to remove the paint from the plates before any welding happens. The plates need through holes for 5/16" x 3/4" button head socket screws and matching threaded holes need to be added to the 5/8" thick gantry support plates. I'll work on that tomorrow. The weird shape of the rail and channel was traced onto the end plates and were then cut out on the metal cutting band saw and filed into final fit by hand. Once it's all bolted together and clamped in perfect alignment, welding will be done last according to the procedure that worked so well on the big machine that I did this way.

The gantry lead screw is going to need lengthening with my shaft adapters, but that's ok because I have those left over from the work table machine build. They won't limit the Y axis travel by being on the lead screw. The carriages won't move that far over.

The button head screws on the motor mount sure look better than those hideous washers and hex bolts.

CarveOne

[DIYaholic]

CarveOne,
Your attention to detail is impressive. I like the milling out for the rail and channel along with making the gantry removable with out having to remove the carriages. It is inspiring to see such effort put into your builds.

As I now have space for a shop, I am now begining to plan & design my own 3' x 4' 80/20 machine. I will try to live up to your standards as I design and build my machine. You do realize that you make it difficult (if not impossible) for (m)any of us to live up to your attention to detail. We are just not worthy.

Keep up the GREAT work, looking forward to seeing more of your exceptional build as it progresses.

Randy,

[CarveOne]

CarveOne,
Your attention to detail is impressive. I like the milling out for the rail and channel along with making the gantry removable with out having to remove the carriages. It is inspiring to see such effort put into your builds.

As I now have space for a shop, I am now begining to plan & design my own 3' x 4' 80/20 machine. I will try to live up to your standards as I design and build my machine. You do realize that you make it difficult (if not impossible) for (m)any of us to live up to your attention to detail. We are just not worthy.

Keep up the GREAT work, looking forward to seeing more of your exceptional build as it progresses.

Randy,

Thanks for the kind words Randy. The big machine forced the detachable gantry thing on me, as I couldn't lift the whole gantry and supports in one piece. I had to make a pair of temporary OSB supports to hold it in place while I climbed down off of the CNC table to install the bolts on each end. It worked so well I did it on this build to stiffen the attachment points. I almost used more of the 5/8" CRS to make the end plates and decided to use the 1/4" CRS leftovers from cutting the rails to length because it is much easier to cut the weird shape. If it isn't stiff enough after welding the joints I'll get some 3/8" CRS and re-do it. I think it will be ok as it is though. Tack welding the joint on the outside of the end plates prevent any weakness in the joints from allowing movement. Grinding it flat lets it fit against the gantry supports again.

You are worthy. You just may not feel like it yet. Build it and I'll watch. I watch all of the build logs here and try to offer something a little different to see how well it works. Everything I know about these things came from right here on the Zone and I can't remember it all as fast as I read it. It's really nice to have a shop and acquire the tools to do what you see in my projects. I'm just a luvin' it.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

The pictures looks nice, but is it strong enough? by the way, is it using stepper motors or AC servo motors? thanks.

I think it will be strong enough, but I've been wrong multiple times before where steel flex is concerned. It has to be stiffer than the oak framed machine. It will be getting a G540 and 380 oz-in steppers for it by end of January.

CarveOne

[revwarguy]

The weird shape of the rail and channel was traced onto the end plates and were then cut out on the metal cutting band saw and filed into final fit by hand.

Wow! That wasn't done on the horizontal bandsaw was it? You put a metal blade in a regular (upright) band saw? Looks quite nice!

[CarveOne]

Wow! That wasn't done on the horizontal bandsaw was it? You put a metal blade in a regular (upright) band saw? Looks quite nice!

The metal cutting band saw can be used in either horizontal or vertical mode. It comes with a stamped steel ~6" square "table" that can be installed with a couple of flat head screws after removing a small blade guard plate. You raise the band saw head all the way up to a vertical position.

The weird shaped cutout took a while because of multiple cuts to get the blade into the right positions and cutting the 1/4" CRS plate goes at a very slow feed rate. At times I'm just using the blade teeth to nibble away enough metal to allow the blade to rotate into close places. You can follow fine point Sharpie lines pretty closely and then hand file the part to final fit without a lot of effort. That's how the radiused parts of the shape are done. Band saw what you can get to, and hand file or disk sand the rest.

Attached is a photo of the Cummins Tool band saw.

CarveOne

[revwarguy]

Thanks for that bit of info. The only other saws like that I've used either didn't have or allow upright use. In fact, one of them practically tips over when pulled too far upright! This one Band Saw, 7 X 12 - Band Saws - Power Saws and Accessories - Power Tools & Metalworking : Grainger Industrial Supply, in fact. It does have a nice hydraulic descent regulator, though.

I will keep my eye out for one that has the vertical use table. I've cut some metal with my 14 inch regular bandsaw normally set up for wood, but changing the motor belts and the blade is a real pain.

[CarveOne]

I would be disappointed if I couldn't find a larger one that can work vertically.

Here are a couple photos with the table on it. Notice the push and lock vise also. It works much better than the angle plates and lead screw clamp thing that I see on many of these 4x6 saws.

Gonna go over to Fastenal now. Be back later.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

revwarguy,

The metal band saw I have now uses a 1/2" width blade. If I had a larger saw it would be using a 3/4" blade and it would not have been so easy to cut this particular shape.

The mail man left me a new Grizzly Industrial catalog today, so I looked at the models they have. G4030 is a 6-1/2" x 10" with 3/4" blade, vertical table option, hydraulic lift, 3.4 gallon coolant system, enclosed cabinet with cast iron base, worm drive 3/4hp motor, and looks like the one I really should have. $695 + $89 shipping

CarveOne

[Arbo]

I got that catalog the other day. It was kinda like getting the Sears christmas catalog when we were kids.

I handed it to the wife and said "here's my christmas list for next year".

[CarveOne]

I got that catalog the other day. It was kinda like getting the Sears christmas catalog when we were kids.

I handed it to the wife and said "here's my christmas list for next year".

It's nice of them to put the "NEW!" label on the stuff that I don't already have from them. (Don't I wish )

The new G0715P table saw looks like something I should have also.

CarveOne

[sfrankland]

I have been looking for a bandsaw as well.



I got this for free a few years ago but I am currently selling it trying to find something a little smaller. The saw is a 24" Powermatic metal bandsaw. Have been looking for a vertical/horizontal type setup.

CarveOne router looks good so far. But to be honest I like the bigger machine better.

[CarveOne]

I have been looking for a bandsaw as well.

I got this for free a few years ago but I am currently selling it trying to find something a little smaller. The saw is a 24" Powermatic metal bandsaw. Have been looking for a vertical/horizontal type setup.

CarveOne router looks good so far. But to be honest I like the bigger machine better.

I like having a vert/horiz saw but the 4x6 can be a little small now. It has served me well though. The Cummins Tool band saw I have is better built in a number of ways than the HF 4x6 I had before I got the Cummins.

One of the reasons the blade keeps jumping off is that the wheel out on the end of the "bow" (as it's called) has a worn bronze bushing. When I'm finished with this job I'll take it off and see if I can press a new one into it. I saw some bushings at Tractor Supply yesterday, and Lowe's has some also.

I like the big machine better also, but the small one under construction has a chance at being much better than the oak machine it will replace. It's just another design idea I had after having so much trouble with the wood machine after I built it. Changing the bearing supports and adding faster lead screws gave me the idea to change the rail and Z axis also. This #3 machine is the result of all those changes that I wanted to do. With these two machines working well there is little else I want to do but make stuff with them.

I may consider going back to improving some of my woodworking machines after this. I have a 22" Grizzly scroll saw that needs some work at the pivot bolt. The castings are worn and could use a pair of roller bearings on the pivot bolt. The blade is moving up and down in a figure 8 pattern due to loose fit.

CarveOne