[Drools]

How big is the Aspire file zipped up for a 12" Mayn Calendar with tool paths?
Do you have room for it on your website C1?

[r00t4rd3d]

Do you have room for it on your website C1?

https://anonfiles.com allows you to share up to 500mb files.

[Arbo]

I found out more information don't call Amana they keep switching me from department after the 6th I hung up. Okay here is a link to them from one of there vendors Tools Today.
30° Engraving Router Bits for Signmaking -ToolsToday.com- Industrial Quality Router Bits

List Price $42.60 each sale price $31.95 there not cheap they claim they will cut wood, plastic, aluminum and solid surface materials..

Lou

I'm picking up a couple of these, more expensive than I want, but I like the flat tip stuff, alows for a greater stepover.

[CarveOne]

How big is the Aspire file zipped up for a 12" Mayn Calendar with tool paths?
Do you have room for it on your website C1?

The 6" is 2.74Mb zipped. The 12" version is 6.4Mb zipped. I tried to upload it here already and it always fails. The 6" version file can be scaled to any other size.

I have room for it and will post it there tomorrow. Will post here when it's done.

[Drools]

Couple of other things to mention. If your V-bit has a 1/8" shank, you may find that it isn't strong enough for the deeper cuts while Vcarving. That can be some hard stuff. Density can be up to 60 pounds per cubic foot.

I had sort of glanced over your comment on the 1/8" shank bits, but it sort of stuck in my head. Out of curiosity I decided to lookup the hardness of each one, PH is 1860 and Padauk is 1725! Wow I did not realize thy were so hard, now I see why you mentioned the 1/8" shank bits! By comparision the hard maple is 1450 on the Janka scale.
I had better invest in some good bits when working with these woods. I think Louie is bang on, this stuff will be hard on bits.
I wonder where Aluminum would be on a Janka scale if it was tested the same way.
I'm wondering what speed/feed to use.

I forgot to add where I got my numbers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

[CarveOne]

I updated my website with additional photos of the Paradise boxes I've made since my last site update, and I added the .crv3d files for the 6" and the 12" Mayan Haab calendars. Either one of the files can be scaled up or down in Aspire by selecting all vectors and the model.

r00t4rd3d,

There are just two toolpaths in this order:

A 3d finishing toolpath using a 1/2" diameter 60 degree V-bit.
A Vcarve toolpath using a 1/2" diameter 60 degree V-bit.

It gets rather complicated beyond that. The Vcarve toolpath is a clean-up pass that puts a little more depth into the 3d finishing toolpath and gets rid of some small ridges left by the 3d finishing toolpath. Consider the 3d finishing toolpath to be the main carving tool path and the V-bit is just a very rigid fine point tapered carving tool. If you have a V-bit with no flat tip, then you may need to use 0.002" for the step-over settings to get a smooth carving and it will double the carving time. The Whiteside #1550 V-bit I use has about 0.005" wide flat tip. You will not get such good detail with a 1/16" tapered ball nose cutter if carving the 6" calendar. It would work ok with 12" and larger calendars.

The 3d finishing toolpath needs 0.004" final pass step-over and clearance pass step-over. The Gap above model setting is 0.0084".

Same step-over settings for the Vcarve toolpath. The flat depth setting is 0.075".

[CarveOne]

I had sort of glanced over your comment on the 1/8" shank bits, but it sort of stuck in my head. Out of curiosity I decided to lookup the hardness of each one, PH is 1860 and Padauk is 1725! Wow I did not realize thy were so hard, now I see why you mentioned the 1/8" shank bits! By comparision the hard maple is 1450 on the Janka scale.
I had better invest in some good bits when working with these woods. I think Louie is bang on, this stuff will be hard on bits.
I wonder where Aluminum would be on a Janka scale if it was tested the same way.
I'm wondering what speed/feed to use.

I forgot to add where I got my numbers.
Janka hardness test - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Aluminum would be just above the top of the Janka scale upper limit. I have two pairs of Sonoran Desert Ironwood grip blanks for 1911A pistols (or knife scales) I bought ten years or more ago that have not been used. Beautiful figure, and hard as nails. I may have to use a diamond hone to sand it to shape if I ever make anything with it. The hardest wood on the Janka list is an Australian species of ironwood.

[Drools]

Thanks for the files and how-to C1, much appreciated!
A question, I was under the impression 3D was done in 2 passes like you have done, however I always thought the first pass(roughing) was done with an EndMill and the second(finishing) pass was done with a Ballnose EM.
I'm no expert, is it common to do the roughing pass with a V-Bit instead of the EM? Do you get better detail in the finished model doing it with a V-Bit?
My buddy with Aspire is looking for a tutorial that would explain exactly how to go from a dxf to what you have done in the Componet section of Aspire.
I'm heading over there tonight to see what we can learn.

[CarveOne]

Thanks for the files and how-to C1, much appreciated!
A question, I was under the impression 3D was done in 2 passes like you have done, however I always thought the first pass(roughing) was done with an EndMill and the second(finishing) pass was done with a Ballnose EM.
I'm no expert, is it common to do the roughing pass with a V-Bit instead of the EM? Do you get better detail in the finished model doing it with a V-Bit?
My buddy with Aspire is looking for a tutorial that would explain exactly how to go from a dxf to what you have done in the Componet section of Aspire.
I'm heading over there tonight to see what we can learn.

Well, yes, that is the accepted procedure, but who said that I have to do everything by the accepted procedure in order to get the desired results? Especially when I'm not getting the desired results using the accepted procedure due to also not having the accepted cutters for the toolpath.
:cheers:

Yes, the tiny tip in the second toolpath cleans up some areas in the model that leave small humps during the first toolpath. The little humps are the results of vector spacings that get height mapped when the model is created. The second Vcarve tool path runs right through them.

In the modeling tab I used the first tool, Create Shape From Vectors to make the 2.5D model. Try creating a model from vectors of something fairly simple like some small circle vectors in a larger square vector. See if you can create raised domes on a flat rectangle. Once you have that model, then create the roughing toolpath with a flat nose end mill. Then create a 3D finishing toolpath with a ball nose end mill. The model will be a gray gradient shape. You can click on it to select it like any vector. It is a darker gray gradient when selected. (There is a way to set the difference in the two gradients so that it is not so dark when selected.)

My reasoning for not doing a roughing toolpath is that the depths are not too deep for my machine and cutter to handle, and it cuts down the total cut time if I don't do it at all. I also don't cut the Haab calendar as a raised area. It is below the top surface in a 6" diameter area only.

There are no closed vectors where pockets are between the glyphs and around the Mayan guy that can be used just for pocketing toolpaths, and there are many points where only a tiny ball nose end mill can get into. I could have created new closed vectors in those open areas for defining pockets for a 1/8" tapered ball nose end mill. I decided to just do it with the tiny point but stiff V-bit cutter and eliminate the pocketing toolpath idea also.

So, I ended up with just the two V-bit operations. At 150 ipm the Aspire estimated time is 1h:23m and actual cut time is about 1h:45m with no tool changes.

If I were cutting a 12" or larger version I would reconsider using a pocket toolpath due to the larger area that the 0.004" stepover and V-bit would take considerably longer to cut. I would still do the V-carve toolpath for a cleanup pass.

[Drools]

Thanks C1, I have never done this before so I was just wondering if your method was better than what I had read. What settings would you use on a 11" version with the "Create Shape From Vectors" tool you mentioned? My stock is not planed and I can usually get a thickness of .8" to .9". I would like the details to standout as much as possible. Are you selecting all the vectors then using the tool or selectively using the tool with different settings?
Thanks so much for the help.

[CarveOne]

Thanks C1, I have never done this before so I was just wondering if your method was better than what I had read. What settings would you use on a 11" version with the "Create Shape From Vectors" tool you mentioned? My stock is not planed and I can usually get a thickness of .8" to .9". I would like the details to standout as much as possible. Are you selecting all the vectors then using the tool or selectively using the tool with different settings?
Thanks so much for the help.

For creating the Haab model with the "Create Shape From Vectors" tool I selected all vectors.

For both 3D finishing and the Vcarve toolpaths I selected all vectors.

If you get an inverted image in the simulations you will need to figure out if you need another circle vector to get it to display correctly.

When you get it right, the simulation will look something like the image below.

[LouF]

Nice wok.
Being a Canadian I had no idea what a Cornhole game was/is. You posted the pictures just a little bit after the post so I as scratching my head as to what you were talking about. A quick google and a return to the thread brought me up to speed.

Ditto same here being from California I have no Idea what Cornhole is I will have to look it up..


Lou

[Arbo]

I had to head out to Denver for work, then it occured to me to check for a woodcraft. Yes, there is one. Bought some gel stain. Yippee!

Was hoping they might have some of those 30 degree v bits, but no luck. But man, they have loads of exotic woods. Picked up some bocote and zebrawood for some gun grips I am working on for a friend, don't know much about the wood, but it looks cool.

Gonna look around and see if I can find any other local place that might have those 30 degree bits, since I want to have some in hand quicker than what the shipping is going to take for the one's I ordered.

I might have to go back to woodcraft and buy some more 'exotic' wood for some small projects in the future since I'm out here...

[CarveOne]

You can unload lots of money in there if you don't watch out. They clean me out every time I go to the one in Raleigh. Klingspor Woodworking Shop also. Lots of pretty woods in both places. I like Bocote and Zebrawood a lot. I have both. Haven't made anything with the bocote yet, but have considered making handles for a P box with it.

I have two pieces of curly purple heart I found at the Woodcraft store. Stock up. Some of the foreign woods are getting hard to get.

[CarveOne]

Ditto same here being from California I have no Idea what Cornhole is I will have to look it up..


Lou

There's a link on the left side of this "Official Cornhole Board" website that links to the history of the game. Plans and other info is there.

[CarveOne]

Thanks C1, I have never done this before so I was just wondering if your method was better than what I had read. What settings would you use on a 11" version with the "Create Shape From Vectors" tool you mentioned? My stock is not planed and I can usually get a thickness of .8" to .9". I would like the details to standout as much as possible. Are you selecting all the vectors then using the tool or selectively using the tool with different settings?
Thanks so much for the help.

Try working it out first, and if it comes to it I'll post some screen shots for you to see some of the settings for the 12" version.

[Arbo]

You can unload lots of money in there if you don't watch out. They clean me out every time I go to the one in Raleigh. Klingspor Woodworking Shop also. Lots of pretty woods in both places. I like Bocote and Zebrawood a lot. I have both. Haven't made anything with the bocote yet, but have considered making handles for a P box with it.

I have two pieces of curly purple heart I found at the Woodcraft store. Stock up. Some of the foreign woods are getting hard to get.

I thought about getting nice wood to make a p box with, but that appeared to be way expensive. I think I will stop by again before I leave and pick up some more stuff. I was looking at the purpleheart and a few others... not sure what I'd use them for, but they at least be in my shop when I 'need' them.

[Arbo]

You can unload lots of money in there if you don't watch out. They clean me out every time I go to the one in Raleigh. Klingspor Woodworking Shop also. Lots of pretty woods in both places. I like Bocote and Zebrawood a lot. I have both. Haven't made anything with the bocote yet, but have considered making handles for a P box with it.

I have two pieces of curly purple heart I found at the Woodcraft store. Stock up. Some of the foreign woods are getting hard to get.

I thought about getting nice wood to make a p box with, but that appeared to be way expensive. I think I will stop by again before I leave and pick up some more stuff. I was looking at the purpleheart and a few others... not sure what I'd use them for, but they at least be in my shop when I 'need' them.

[Drools]

Hi Arbo, I purchased some exotic 1"x10" pieces of wood the other day to make a few P-boxes for gifts. However when I was laying out the pieces for cutting (in CAD) I noticed if I were to make the whole box from the 1"x10", I would be wasting quite a lot of wood. I decided find out the minimum size needed to make each part.
I used common dimensional lumber where:
1. 1"x10" = .75" x 9.25" to 9.5"
2. 1"x8" = .75" x 7.25" to 7.5"
3. 1"x6" = .75" x 5.25" to 5.5"
I include a border around the cutout part to allow for clamping. (LxWxH)
Top: If a .176” border was left around the part, taking into account for the bevels which would cut right through your clamps you would need a piece of stock 13” x 8.6” x .75”, If you want it in a solid piece of wood you have to get a 1” x 10”.
Bottom: With a .35” border left around the part you would need a piece 13” x 7” x .75”. A 1” x 8” will work here.
Sides: I do both sides at the same time which I would need a piece of stock, 20.5” x 6.25” x .75”. Again a 1” x 8” would work.
Front/Back : I was planning to do both Front/Back at the same time however my clamping system would have been awkward to accomplish do this. Doing 1 at a time, you would need a piece 13” x 5.1” x .75”. A 1” x 6” would work. Alternatively you could stack the two pieces but you would need a piece 13” x 9.8” x .75” this is a tight fit in a 1” x 10”.
I suppose if your clamping system was a vacuum type then you could eliminate the clamping allowance I have included.
Another thing to think about is the condition of the stock, my supplier has all the stock undresses so you can find pieces that are different widths. When I start picking through the pile I look for a piece just a bit over the standard sizes for say a 1”x6”, When I ask them to plane it I tell them specifically not to do the edges, just do the surface. This way I end up with a piece 1”x7.25” which is too small to be classified as a 1”x8” and it will be sold as a 1” x 6” but I still get a larger piece of stock.

I know C1 does some laminations to get the top piece and if you can do this it can save you some money and if the two pieces are bookend matched it can look quite nice. Since I’m planning to gift a few of these for Christmas I want to make sure that I can do it as efficiently as possible.
So I will pick up a piece of stock in the 1” x 6” range for the sides, another in the 1” x 8” range for the Bottom/Sides and finally a 1” x 10” for the top. I might be able to get a top piece just a tad too small to be classified as a 1” x 10” but still work for my Top and pay for a 1” x 8”. I probably would not be as picky if I were working with more common wood such as Maple, Birch etc as these can be substantially less expensive that the Padauk/Purpleheart I have.
On a different note: C1 we were able to generate a good model of the Mayaan Calendar in 11.5". Thanks for the help on that.

[stumpman]

I just drill a pilot hole about 3/8" in on all four corners of the waste area of each piece. I put a 1 1/4" brad into each hole and drive them into my spoiler board. This is especially helpful on the top piece as there would be a lot of waste. My supplier has 9.5" oak quite often but 11.5 or so is catch as catch can. There also are no clamps to get in the way.
Just another means to the same end, less waste.
Stumpman