[Bemsed]

Hi guys, I am new here and hope the post is in the right place its a big site
So I have this new Sable 2015 princaply to produce diy boards.
I have the Sable, Eagle, the ulp to produce the gcode and Mach3.
I have set Mach3's configuration such that the axis motors are scalled and now work, I have some gcode to go and a selection of bits and thats about a far as I can get. I assume the next step is a jig / fixture and setting some datum in mACH3 for the axis which is were I am hoping you guys an help me with a little 101

Many thanks
Tony

Grrr just noticed that I typed Bemsed instead of Bemused for my name, expect I am stuck with it now

[Jay C]

I'm not following your question. Are you asking how to go from Eagle CAD to a etched PCB? If so, have a look at millpcbs.com

[Bemsed]

I'm not following your question. Are you asking how to go from Eagle CAD to a etched PCB? If so, have a look at millpcbs.com

Hey thanks for the link Jay you have hit it more or less on the head, I want to know how to go from the gcode prodsed by eagle to a completed pcb including all the bits in between such as driving Mach3, fixtures, tooling etc.
Links like you provided are great as I am starting on the bottom rung here. More links would be welcome as I am so new to this I dont even know were to look.
However having played with the mill over the weekend things are coming together quite fast, probably faster than I expected.

I think now I have a rough grasp of Mach3 and have moved on quite a bit since the first post now having produced some small (tiny 250mm Sq) single sided test boards using bottom route, mill, and drill. I am still experimenting with cutting tools.
I started routining with a 60 degree flat cutter but on the high density stuff I sem to have better results with a 30 degree flat cutter.
Could now do with some advice on the cutter to use for milling the final board outline in order to part the piece from the blank. I have used the 30 degree flat cutter but it blunts after four or five boards.

Also as my bed is not true to the Z axis I need to mill the spoil board, what cutter would be used for this?

Many thanks
Tony

[Jay C]

Could now do with some advice on the cutter to use for milling the final board outline in order to part the piece from the blank. I have used the 30 degree flat cutter but it blunts after four or five boards.

Also as my bed is not true to the Z axis I need to mill the spoil board, what cutter would be used for this?

Many thanks
Tony

The cutter for milling out the board (FR4 material I assume) is a diamond cut carbide cutter. (example).

Not knowing your spindle or your spoilboard I can offer specific recommendations, but use the biggest flat endmill with 4-flutes to level your board. Since I have a 1/4" collet for mine, I use a 1.75" mortising bit and PVC as my spoilboard.

-Jay

[Bemsed]

The cutter for milling out the board (FR4 material I assume) is a diamond cut carbide cutter. (example).

Not knowing your spindle or your spoilboard I can offer specific recommendations, but use the biggest flat endmill with 4-flutes to level your board. Since I have a 1/4" collet for mine, I use a 1.75" mortising bit and PVC as my spoilboard.

-Jay

Thanks your example of a milling out cutter explains why I have had no luck so far, I will add the cutter to my shopping list.
The spoil board is acrylic at the moment but I think I will change it to MDF then I can use my hand held woodwork router cutters, pretty obvious now, I think I had a mental blank for a short while

Thanks