[levelzero]

I have some parts with not holes that I'd like anodized. I don't care about the cosmetics of the back, so could I solder a loop onto the back for the anodizing company to connect to?

[doorknob]

I am going through the process of setting up a home anodizing line, but have not yet started working with it, so this is just speculation on my part.

When you say "solder", what aluminum soldering material(s) are you talking about using? My concern would be with the possible reaction of the solder with the acid in the anodizing tank (either with corrosion or contamination of the bath). I have never worked with soldering to aluminum (or the special solders that are sold for that purpose), and so I also don't know whether electrical conductivity through the layer of solder would be an issue.

If the back of the part is not important cosmetically, would it be simpler to drill a blind hole there for attachment to the anodizing rack, rather than soldering or welding or some similar procedure?

[levelzero]

I'm not sure how the solder will react. I'm thinking normal plumbing solder. It should be simple to do batches in an oven with the right set up.

Unfortunately the parts are .080 - .125 thick so a blind hole is kind of hard to pull off.

[Geof]

... I'm thinking normal plumbing solder.....

Normal plumbing solder will not work on aluminum.

[hawkburger]

That should be an easy question, but I don't think that if you asked a plating/ anocize by telephone they will give you a quick and easy answer. Like one half at a time, using a clamp or holder ?

[ntcnc]

I send many parts out to anodize that do not have holes in them they usually end up with a very small dot that does not get plated as it is a contact point. Just tell them you want it on the back.

[levelzero]

Ever local anodizer/plater I've talked to said they wont do parts without either a through hole or a small threaded hole to put a screw into.

[mactec54]

levelzero

There can't be serious about there anodizing, most have racks that they ajust to the size of the part, & the part is clamped between little fingers, you can only attach aluminum or titanium to hold the part to be anodized

[noisillator]

Caswell Plating used to sell a "sput welder" for this purpose. From what I've read, it could be used to spot-weld a thin lead wire to the part for anodizing. Unfortunately, it's no longer available. Sure wish I knew how to make one.

[rowbare]

Caswell Plating used to sell a "sput welder" for this purpose. From what I've read, it could be used to spot-weld a thin lead wire to the part for anodizing. Unfortunately, it's no longer available. Sure wish I knew how to make one.

Perhaps a stud welder for auto body would do the job. Something like this: Stud Welder Dent Repair Kit

bob

[mactec54]

noisillator
rowbare

There are only 2 types of material that you can put in your anodizing tank, for holding your work, Aluminum & Titanium anything else will contaminate the chemicals

The cathode/anode can be Aluminum & Lead

[Jaxbubba]

You can use Titanium or Aluminum fingers to grab the part by the backside to anodize the parts. If you use aluminum fingers, you will have to etch them every time to get them to be electrically conductive. I use Titanium fingers to grab the parts because titanium will not anodize. Anything else will be eaten up in the acid bath. You will have little bare spots where the fingers conduct the dc voltage if you color your parts, but you said that you don't care about the back side of the parts. If you rack the parts, you have to be carful that you don't trap any air pockets, or the parts won't anodize correctly. Hope this helps