[nateman_doo]

I am looking to order a drill chuck from McMaster-Carr (because its local for me) but I am unsure of the size/type of drill chuck that goes in the tail stop where the live center is.

I have zero experience with the lathe, but it will be arriving tomorrow and i hear it comes with no tools.

I made a small order for some 5/16" bits because I read somewhere that was the max size.

I think it is a #2 Morse Taper which I found in McMaster for $13 It goes to a #2 jacobs taper on the other side, but the drill chucks there are expensive. A keyless chuck from 1/16th-1/2" is about $63.00. Does this sound normal?

[RotarySMP]

#2 morse is correct for the tailstock. The tailstock ram is pretty short, so a full length #2 will only grip with the ram extended about an inch. Just use a cut off disc in an angle grinder to chop the end off that new chuck adapter you buy. You want it to just eject before the tailstock is fully retracted.

Try to get the shortest chuck you can find. The 7x10 doesn't leave you much room.

[nateman_doo]

Thanks! Much appreciated!

[nateman_doo]

The MT2 shaft I bought from HF was too long. Should I just cut it down on my chopsaw?

[eartaker]

That is what I did to mine I got from HF. works fine.

[nateman_doo]

Thanks.

[knudsen]

After chopping it, you might grind/file/lathe/sand/bite/etc. a small bevel to eliminate any burr and prevent the near 90 deg edge from digging into the taper in the tail.

[nateman_doo]

Yea, sounds like a plan. I wonder if my hacksaw would work, or if the chopsaw would be a better idea.

[RotarySMP]

They are normally hardened. My hacksaw just skated off the one I bought.

[eartaker]

use the shopsaw, my bandsaw wouldn't touch it. had to use an angle grinder.

[knudsen]

It depends who made the arbor. Phase II are made of peanut butter and can be cut with a bandsaw or just a plastic knife. 'tis why we have so many options on the bevel

[doorknob]

By how much did you cut down the HF chuck taper?

With the drill chuck inserted into the tailstock, what is the usable distance between the headstock chuck and the tailstock chuck?

I don't have a 7x10 mini lathe yet, but I am considering getting one, and hope to do some drilling with it.

[nateman_doo]

The chop saw worked like a charm. Took a few minutes to cut through it though. I found that rotating it while the saw would cut helped speed up the process.

[nateman_doo]

I have a 2" x 2" rod of copper. I would like to know what jaw would be best to hold it and face the sides of it.

[nateman_doo]

By how much did you cut down the HF chuck taper?

With the drill chuck inserted into the tailstock, what is the usable distance between the headstock chuck and the tailstock chuck?

I don't have a 7x10 mini lathe yet, but I am considering getting one, and hope to do some drilling with it.

I think I cut off 2 inches?

[knudsen]

By how much did you cut down the HF chuck taper?

With the drill chuck inserted into the tailstock, what is the usable distance between the headstock chuck and the tailstock chuck?

I don't have a 7x10 mini lathe yet, but I am considering getting one, and hope to do some drilling with it.

I've had my 7 x for about 15 year and put quite a few miles on her. It's been a good little bench lathe for modeling. That being said, I wouldn't even consider buying one now if I were expecting to do a lot of drilling (from a tail stock chuck). They filled a nitch in the market in their time, but IMHO, their time has come to pass Good little modeling lathes for the price, but they are almost a kit. You really need to tear one down and do a lot of modifications to it to get it to run well. It would not be my choice if I were shopping for a small lathe today. The tail stock is a weak design, and drilling from it is not very repeatable. I don't mean to pee in anyone's soup, but IMHO, you will be happier if you get a 8 x, 9 x 20 or 10 x 22. Not to say the 7 x is not a good little modeling lathe, but it has limitations. It lacks the rigidity and repeatability its big brothers have. You can't expect repeatability from the tailstock, unless you modify it. The tool post is flexy and repeatability is poor. It was a great little lathe for the money, but I would have to advise passing on it for one of the larger offering from HF, Griz and the likes. If you've located one for a song, I would say go for it. It's a great learning tool, and you will likely have a ball with it.

Good luck! :rainfro:

[nateman_doo]

When you say repeatability is poor- you referring to turning one end, then putting the other side in and its completely out of whack? Because that happens to me EVERY time.

Exhibit A:


I was turning this piece for a while. Turned one side, then the other, over and over. Every time took the piece out of the chuck it wobbled when I put it back in. I ordered a 5" 3 jaw chuck from LMS.

[RotarySMP]

Three jaw chucks are not considered precision work holders.

Changing from one three jaw to another is not going to allow you to reverse stock and have it run true.

You could do a set true mod to improve that, or just use the four jaw and a DTI.

[M250cnc]

Three jaw chucks are not considered precision work holders.

That much is true, but a quality chuck can be very accurate.

My chuck runs true to less than a thou.

Pratt Burnerd make a griptrue chuck that has each of the three jaws adjustable a small amount.

You could also use soft jaws that are turned in situ to suit the part.

Phil

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[RotarySMP]

Phil, Nateman's current chuck is a cheap chinese one that came with his Sieg 7x lathe. The 5" chuck has is replacing it with is also a cheap chinese one from little machine shop.

They work, but would not be accused of being quality devices.