[SSN Vet]

I have a 14" wood working band saw that runs at 3,000 sfpm ...

I've read mixed reviews on whether these saws can be used for cutting aluminum and brass, without gearing them down.

Given that a bi-metal blade for it would run ~$34 I thought I might give it a try.

Any thoughts?

I have found three blade choices..
1/2" wide 14-18 variable tooth, .025" kerf
1/2" wide 6-10 variable tooth, .025" kerf
3/4" wide 10-14 variable tooth, .035" kerf

Any recommendations?

Any suggestions for rigging up wipers to keep the aluminum chips from imbedding into the rubber faced wheels?

Would I be better off getting one of these?

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Watt-Portable-BandSaw-Metal-Cutting/dp/B000UJODAE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277999882&sr=1-6"]http://www.amazon.com/Watt-Portable-BandSaw-Metal-Cutting/dp/B000UJODAE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277999882&sr=1-6[/ame]

I've been watching Craig's List but haven't seen on of the 4" x 6" horizontals listed... and their running ~$250 new.

[Geof]

I have used a regular 14" wood working bandsaw for cutting aluminum and brass for years just using a regular carbon steel 6 tpi blade. You cannot cut steel at all and even brass will dull the blade faster than aluminum. Cutting anodized aluminum is not a good idea because this will kill the blade with a few inches of cut, similarly cast aluminum with a high silicon content will also kill the blade quickly.

See the picture for a typical cut. I use straight cutting oil just brushed on the work ahead of the cut or use a mister for lots of cutting; cutting dry is possible on thin material but anything above 3/8" tends to load up the teeth cutting dry.

[knudsen]

You want more than one tooth engaged in the stock as your blade passes through. Usually run 100 to 120 ft/min for most metals, faster for plastics, unless it melts easy like acrylic. sorry if this has been said, I started typing this this morning :P busy day...

[Geof]

You want more than one tooth engaged in the stock as your blade passes through.....

This is true for horizontal bandsaws where the feed rate is determined by the weight of the saw bearing down on the blade. However, on a vertical bandsaw you control the feed and when cut thin material with a coarse tooth blade you just "float" it past the blade very gently. If you try sawing thick material on a vertical with a fine tooth blade you will learn a lesson in patience.

[gd.marsh]

I've read that you should always keep at least 3 teeth engaged in the material at all times .. so if your cutting 1/2" material you would want at least 6tpi. to cut 1/4" 12tpi would be better.

Of course a 12tpi will also cut 1/2" material, but not quite as fast & with a little more tendency to load up. I've fudged in both directions w/o any problems but as I understand it, that's supposed to be the guideline.

I use WD40 when cutting aluminum by hand on the vertical band saw .. the horizontal has flood coolant with water soluble oil.

[knudsen]

Geof, also true with the horizantal. You can play tricks to get it to work without stripping out the teeth. Faster speed in addition to slower feed, cutting at an angle or with the blade parallel to a longer side, back it with some thicker material, etc.

3 teeth would be nice, but if you go easy, as long as the material is thicker than the space between the teeth you should be OK. OTOH, Strip the teeth out of a good blade and you'll wish you had 3 teeth in. Once you strip the teeth out, you not only lost any time you may have saved by not just changing to the correct blade, you also get the buy one blade for the price of two effect (nuts) I've found you get a nicer cut with several teeth engaged.

I use WD on Al all the time on the lathe, but never tried it for sawing. I use the stick wax for band saws, beeswax in a tube. Used to use tap magic thick, until the first time I opened it up to change the blade and saw the mess. (nuts)

How do you guys tighten your blades. I mean not how to tighten, but how tight?

[Geof]

.....How do you guys tighten your blades. I mean not how to tighten, but how tight?

A below middle C.

I like my big horizontals, they have a gauge which tells me when it is tight enough. The small verticals I do indeed tighten until they have a note somewhere around middle C or a bit lower.

[Teyber12]

matt another idea is to scour craigslist for used cheap bandsaws. You are not really "spending" money on the bandsaw- just investing in it. if you clean it up and take nice pictures of it you can usually sell something for more then you paid for it if you are patient. I do this a lot; the idea of getting paid to own a expensive box and pan brake or a mini lathe is pretty sweet

[neilw20]

I have seen variable pitch blades.
Finer pitch varying to coarse and back again along the blade.
The horizontal machine is specifically used for cutting aluminum extrusions. The varying pitch tends to minimize repeating patterns on the material. No idea where they come from. This was on a Chinese unit.

[knudsen]

A below middle C.

I like my big horizontals, they have a gauge which tells me when it is tight enough. The small verticals I do indeed tighten until they have a note somewhere around middle C or a bit lower.

My (late) father used to tune and repair pianos in the 70's. I have his old tools, including a vacuum tube "strobo-tuner" so I should be able to dial in a very accurate middle C

I've wondered about the variable pitch blades, Neil. Wondered what the purpose was.

Oh, and getting a used saw to dedicate to metal is a good idear too. If you run across a Jet (5 x 7 I think), those a step up from the HF and other 4 x 6's, not only in size, but in quality. Much heavier unit. I bought a new one back when they were a lot less expensive, and man, I had a hell of a time getting that thing out of the trunk of my Grand Marq and into the garage. Not that the 4 x 6's are all bad, just a lot lighter unit. Jet I got was made in Taiwan instead of ROC, and you can sure tell the difference.