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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking > WoodWorking Topics > MDF cutting result... good? pic
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    51

    MDF cutting result... good? pic

    This is the result I get using a new 1/4" upspiral carbide endmill at 10k RPM at 200 IPM. BTW, it's cheap boxstore MDF.

    Is this excessive, I don't know what it's called, fuzzing, normal?

    I did not see this using a straight bit but I ran it at high RPM and low feed rate. (newbie)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_3373.jpg  
    "The whole world must learn of our peaceful ways... by force!" - Bender Bending Rodríguez

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    88
    That looks more-or-less normal for an up-cut spiral in MDF. You may be able to get slightly better results by adjusting the speeds & feeds, but it will never give you a perfect crisp edge.

    I usually "break" the surface with a 1/8" or 1/4" down-cut spiral, to a depth of about 1/10". I then do the full depth cuts with a larger diameter up-cut spiral. (The concept is similar to using a scoring saw on a panel saw to prevent chips along the edge.) I do this in any material where tearout is likely to be an issue.

    Cheers,
    - Dean

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    As Dean said, it's normal. If it sands off easily, it's not excessive.

    Looking at Onsrud's chip load chart, I think you need to up the rpm's a bit for 200 ipm. Depending on depth of cut, from 13,000 to 15,000. This should give you slightly smaller chips, which won't tear out quite as much.

    http://www.onsrud.com/xdoc/ChipMDF
    The 52-200 is an upcut spiral.

    Another thing is on the inside stepped are (rabbitts), cut the deeper parts first, then you'll only have the fuzzing on the very top edge. You can also try a very light first pass, maybe .01.

    I tend to use downcut spirals for most cutting, though. Very clean top edges. But, you'll want to keep the chips from packing in the cut, as it will create more heat on subsequent passes, which dulls the tool faster. But, another advantage to downcuts with mdf is even when they start to dull, they'll still leave a clean top edge.

    I use Dean's method when cutting hardwoods, especially thick ones. Make one pass with the downcut to prevent the edge from chipping, then switch to an upcut to finish.

    A couple areas where upcut bits are much better, is peck drilling, and pocketing or surfacing.
    A downcut will burn badly if you try to plunge straight down for a hole.

    And if cutting a flat bottom surface, an upcut will give much better surface finish.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

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    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
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    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  4. #4
    I use a compression (or mortise compression) bit for cutting sheet goods. This bit has both an upcut spiral and downcut spiral in the same bit. With a mortise compression you would plunge about .25" into the material and start cutting. This puts that downcut part of the bit into the material creating a very clean and crisp cut. When you are ready to punch all the way through the material, do so by about 1/64"-1/32" and the upcut part of the bit creates the same clean and crisp cut on the bottom. These bits are available in many sizes and diameters.

    This type of bit works great for plywood, melamine, laminate, MDF, etc.
    Don
    http://www.dlwoodworks.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    51
    thanks guys, y'all gave me some really good advice to try out.
    "The whole world must learn of our peaceful ways... by force!" - Bender Bending Rodríguez

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