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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    20

    noise control - cnc router enclosure design

    I'm about to start the build of a 2x3 cnc router based on the FLA/CNCRouterParts design. see:
    http://www.cncrouterparts.com/index.php or
    http://www.finelineautomation.com/
    or their threads in this forum.
    I'm planning to use a Bosch Colt PR20EVSK-RT router as the cutter.
    I don't have one handy, but I do have an old Rockwell 4620 Router.
    It's noisy. My Radio Shack sound level meter reads 90-95db at 3ft
    when running (no cutter, just running the router).
    If I leave the router running in my basement I get readings of 60-65db
    in the room above the router or outside the basement window
    [poured concrete foundation, the noise is coming thru the cheap
    basement window].

    That's way too much noise to expect my SO to tolerate. I also don't
    want to risk annoying the neighbors with the noise either.

    I'm planning on putting the router in a (roughly) 3x4x3 box made out of
    1/2 inch MDF. I might line the box with homasote for additional noise
    deadening. I'll need to provide ventilation, but I'm planning on a dust
    collection system anyway. That should suck in enough cool air to keep
    the router cool.

    has anyone built a similar enclosure or tackled the problem in a different way?

    Frank Pirz
    ps: yes. I also plan on blocking the window well with a sound absorbent
    panel and might cover the ceiling with homasote to kill some of the
    sound transfer to the upstairs rooms.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    0

    noise

    I just finised my first cnc and faced with this annoying noise. I tried to make mdf closure but dont remcommend it. I beleive wooden materials let noise to outside. I tried a big cartoon box and adhesing agg carriages in it. these are low quality cartoon boxes to carry eggs. I saw them once on television, they used it for noise isolation in basement misic works.

    these works fine and increadibily reduces noise as I can hear. but very huge noise also comes from bottom. metals and woods conducts noise so every table, table foot lets noise go to room. I tried to put cnc on soft plastic pieces to prevent noise go directly to table. you dont beleive but I could hear the noise reduction. (I dont have dbmeter). I will also put these plastics under the table. but even from a 1cm space between cartoon box and table there comes incrediaby high noise.

    so these are for just ideas. if you find any solution please post here.
    thanks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1137
    Most of the research I've done on this ... the answer was mass. I bought a kit of sound damping material called Dynamat. Got a great deal (IMO) on it at Amazon.


    I lined my cabinet especially the doors. I recently added a vacuum. I built a box out of 3/4" MDF to house the vacuum and baffles for the exhaust. It was still too loud. I added some dynamat and it's much quieter.

    FWIW,
    Jay

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1137
    Another recommend is to use Green Glue and put drywall (5/8") on the outside of your MDF box. That is an elastomeric material that will absorb the vibrations. Home theater builders swear by the stuff.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    392
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay C View Post
    Most of the research I've done on this ... the answer was mass. I bought a kit of sound damping material called Dynamat. Got a great deal (IMO) on it at Amazon.
    Finally the car audio knowledge pays off

    Sound deadening materials do *essentially* nothing but stop vibrations, which is not a bad thing at all. Any more than 25% coverage at the center of the panel is moot with this product; no more is needed, although having more won't hurt the performance in any way. One product I personally prefer over Dynamat is Damplifier, which is essentially the same thing, just higher quality imo. It can be found here: http://secondskinaudio.com/. There's another cheap product called Fatmat which will get the job done, but is lower quality.

    On top of the sound deadener, it'd be beneficial to add something such as Mass-Loaded Vinyl or Closed-Cell Foam. This will help stop the physical sound waves themselves. Either of these products can be purchased from SSA, as well as numerous other places both online and locally.

    Hope this helped a bit


    - Jesse

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    20

    Preliminary testing

    Thanks to all who replied. I just got done building a home theater so
    I've seen some of the products a few of you have mentioned. I decided
    to run a quick test to see how effective the box approach would be.
    I built a 14 inch cube out of OSB (Oriented Strand Board) used for
    siding and roofing. I had it available. It's not as dense as MDF.
    With the Rockwell router on a foam pad sitting on a concrete floor
    I read 93 db at 3ft from the router. Placing the OSB box over the
    router (I left one side open) cuts the sound level to 82 db. I was hoping
    to get more, but realistically it's not bad for something I cobbled together
    in under an hour. MDF will most likely be a few db better. It's clear that
    I'll have to pay attention to sealing the box and putting mufflers on any
    air intake/exhaust openings. I'm hoping to get a few more db by putting
    an additional layer of sound treatment either on the inside or the outside.
    Haven't decided what to use yet. Looking for something cheap.

    Frank Pirz

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    723
    What about regular fiberglass insulation sandwiched between layers of osb with a small air gap on the outside layer? Or you could insulate the basement ceiling like me to reduce the sound as well as the heating bill!
    http://www.glenspeymillworks.com Techno LC4896 - 2.2Kw Water Cooled Spindle | Moving Table Mill from Omis 3 CMM, 500Lb granite base | Epilog Legend 32 Laser Engraver

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    20
    Pplug asked
    "What about regular fiberglass insulation sandwiched between layers of osb with a small air gap on the outside layer? Or you could insulate the basement ceiling like me to reduce the sound as well as the heating bill!"

    For soundproofing the fiberglass needs to be compressed. You are better off
    using boards made from fiberglass that are meant to be stuck to the sides
    of exposed air ducts in unheated spaces. They usually have one side covered
    with aluminum foil. I was going to try Homosote instead as it's less of an irritant
    when you cut it up. A sandwich of MDF-Homosote-Sheetrock might work well.

    I think part of the way 'green glue' works is to create a small gap between
    two layers of (usually) sheetrock. The glue is resilient, so it damps vibration
    between the layers.

    I plan on insulating the ceiling. Note that most of the sound transmission
    to the upper floor is thru the exposed heating ducts. So those should be
    wrapped with something like Dynamat/Damplifier/Fatmat products mentioned
    in an earlier post. The basement walls are already insulated/finished.
    Had to do that to keep it warm. If your basement walls are not insulated
    you are loosing heat thru them. Do that first. A warmer basement means
    warmer floors upstairs!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    20

    Noise figures for Bosch Colt (pr20evsk)

    I just got the Bosch Colt router that I'm going to be using as
    the cutting head for my cnc router.
    For reference, here are the noise figures for at it's various
    speed settings:
    1 ~16k rpm - 71 db
    2 ~18k rpm - 75 db
    3 ~20k rpm - 78 db
    4 ~22.5k rpm - 81 db
    5 ~26.5k rpm - 86 db
    6 ~35k rpm - 92 db

    Measurements were made under the same conditions.
    No router bit installed. Router sitting on a rubber mat
    on concrete floor. Sound meter at 3 ft from the router.

    At it's fastest speed it's just as noisy as the bigger Rockwell
    router I used for my previous noise tests. The only saving grace
    is that I have the option of running the Bosch at a slower speed
    [but a slower ipm cutting rate] to keep it quieter.

    I'm still planning on enclosing the router.
    Next step is insulating the two hvac ducts that feed the upstairs
    bedroom and determining if that helps reduce the noise level there.

    Frank Pirz

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    191
    I got lucky and got some free insulated panels from a Food Lion warehouse that was being remodeled. The panels have aluminum skins on both sides and 4" of foam in between.

    I run a Hitachi M12VC router and even during heavy cuts I can hardly hear anything on the other side of the room. In the next room I can't tell if it's running even at the doorway.

    This would be a good low/no cost option if you could find some surplus panels.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    20
    Diecutter - thanks for the posting!
    Sounds encouraging (no pun intended).
    Did you build an enclosure out of those panels, or use them
    for your shop walls?
    If you build an enclosure, what did you use for a door?
    If you built a room was there any special treatment for the ceiling?

    Frank Pirz

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    191
    This is the only picture I have handy. You can see the thickness of the foam at the bottom of the photo.

    Yes, I did build an enclosure with the back wall being my cinder block basement wall, the "ceiling" and side walls and front wall are foam panels. The top half of the front is removable (has two handles) and has a large acrylic viewing window.

    The panels are held together with steel l brackets and the seams are caulked to prevent dust from escaping.

    The enclosure went together quite fast and easily.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bigrouter.jpg  

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by diecutter View Post
    This would be a good low/no cost option if you could find some surplus panels.
    I wonder if you could fabricate such a thing if you can't find any?

    EPS foam panels are cheap and easy to work with, you can buy large 1/8" thick hardboard panels at any building place cheaply enough...a little bit of the right glue and you've got sandwich panels!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    191
    You should be able to build panels that perform just as well using the methods you describe. There is no reason the skin has to be aluminum. It could be masonite, plywood sheathing etc. with good results. You could even build a studded frame and have foam sprayed in and trimmed flush as seen on various home improvement shows.

    If you had zero funds available stuffing old Goodwill reject jeans, coats, etc. tightly between two spaced sheets of sheathing would probably be close to other sound deadening panels. Not elegant, but free.:banana:

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    0
    Has anybody else managed to limit the noise from the router on a CNC by building a sound-proofing box enclosing it? By which I mean enclosing the router only, and not the whole machine itself. If so, a photo of the enclosure with some explanation of how it was made and what materials were used would be greatly appreciated. Also, whether it has affected routing performance or not..

    After seeing a CNC router in action the noise level is the main factor putting me off from getting one. It would be going in my basement and I live in an urban environment on a street of terraced houses. I don't think 90db would go down too well with the neighbours/SO.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1137
    The noise would not only be from the router, but also the cutting bit in the material. You really need to think enclosure.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    1036
    post deleted. sorry.

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