[cambosoup99]

Im using proximity switches on my current build. So thought i'd post up my setup for anyone that wants to go this route. I've bench tested everything and all is working. Here is the parts and schematic for the relay board that I built.

im using these here DC6 36V 300mAh 4mm LJ12A3 4 Z BX Inductive Proximity Sensor Detection Switch NPN | eBay

and all parts for the relay board were sourced from radio-shack. This setup uses separate isolated power supplies for the switches and relays. The diode is there to prevent other leds on adjacent switches from turning on, when one switch is on. You cant see the led's in the pic because they are on the ends of the switch where the wires come out.

This setup is slightly simplified compared to the other, it doesn't require mounting extra magnets on the machine.

The proximity switch senses metal within 4mm or closer range.

setup can be wired normally open or normally closed through relay switch contacts. Also, the switches will run on any voltage between 3-36v. I'm just using 12v in the diagram because that's what I have.

[crashswiftly]

Hi all,

Need some advise about hooking this all up. I have the G540 and just read through this thread but I'm confused, I would like to use prox sensors on my new crp2448 build for homing and just need to know if I'm on the right track here.
I am fat fingers when it comes to soldering so building the sensors is out, plus I have no way to cut the mounts.

I saw the hamlin prox post and thought I may go this route.

The sensors are :

55110 LED Flange Mount Hall Effect Sensor - Hamlin Inc - Position, Proximity Speed Modules | Dynamic Catalog | DigiKey Corporation

I have this power supply on hand:

RS-15-5: MEAN WELL: Power Supplies & Wall Adapters

Am I correct that with using these, I would not need anything as far as caps or resistors? what I mean is, I am thinking all I need to do is a direct hookup by hooking the V+ and V- in parrallel to the Powersupply, and then run the signal leads to 3 individual G540 inputs 1,2,3 for X,Y,Z home?

I know very little about electronics other than the fact there's a magic smoke placed in them that seems impossible to put back if you let it out

[cambosoup99]

read my build log, i have mine setup with ebay proximity switches and they work great, I'm getting repeatability within .002 in

[RomanLini]

Personally I would not be happy with 0.002" repeatability when the hall type home switches will give close to 0.0005" repeatability or 5 times the accuracy.

However if that suits your needs then proximity switches will do the job.

If you used proximity switches to make it easy (so you don't have to build your own hall switches) then there are a couple of commercial ready-made hall switch modules you can buy and just connect 3 wires. They are mentioned a few pages back I think.

[crashswiftly]

RomanLini,

The Hall sensors I posted above were found a few pages back in the thread.
I want to try using these but I am unclear as to hooking them up to the G540. I am assuming I dont need any other components other than a powersupply. I'm thinking I just need to connect the signal to the g540 and the V+ and V- to the supply. I just want to make sure I'm not messing up since I'm not sure if resistors or anything else needs added to make the setup work.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Crash

[Crevice Reamer]

I am assuming I dont need any other components other than a powersupply. I'm thinking I just need to connect the signal to the g540 and the V+ and V- to the supply. I just want to make sure I'm not messing up since I'm not sure if resistors or anything else needs added to make the setup work.

Hi Crash.

I haven't used that one, although it has digital output and will probably work.
That's NOT a slotted/vane type though.

I HAVE used this one for both spindle sensor:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertic...version-6.html

and home switch:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertic...ersion-12.html

and KNOW it works with G 540 and plugs directly into G 540 input 'as is' and will work with a 5V PSU. It wires up just as you described:

SR17C-J6 Honeywell Sensing and Control | 480-1993-ND | DigiKey

CR.

[crashswiftly]

Thanks for the reply and links CR!

That got me Straightened out!

Crash

[harryn]

I am starting to really value this thread on end and limit sensors.

[justCNCit]

can I get a bottom line

I was originally going to do what was on page 1, the cheap hall effect sensors. That was like two years ago. Since then it looks like some people complained about how hard it was to put together the sensors. I have a large tabletop CNC and it drives me crazy when it doesn't return to zero.

Somebody mentioned finding proximity sensors on eBay also. Is proximity sensor considered the same thing as hall-effect? I didn't think they were.

If it comes down to repeatability of .002" versus .0005", I'll go with .002" if the assembly is easy. 71 pages is a lot to catch up on and sink teeth into...

thanks

[Al_The_Man]

. Is proximity sensor considered the same thing as hall-effect? I didn't think they were.

thanks

A hall sensor is considered a proximity sensor, but a proximity sensor does not necessarily have to be Hall technology, e.g. a magnet operated reed switch is also a proximity sensor.
Al.

[Crevice Reamer]

If it comes down to repeatability of .002" versus .0005", I'll go with .002" if the assembly is easy. 71 pages is a lot to catch up on and sink teeth into...

thanks

You can have your easy assembly and repeatability too. They come already put together and ready to wire up and plug into your BOB input:
SR17C-J6 Honeywell Sensing and Control | 480-1993-ND | DigiKey

These work on 5 to 30V, and operate by a ferrous metal vane passing through the slot.

There are also HE switches built to operate like regular snap switches:
http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...k=vx10&cur=USD

They require purchasing a separate wire connector and pins to make them work, for about a buck more per switch.

I have used both types. The vane type make excellent speed sensors too.

CR.

[Bubba]

"I was originally going to do what was on page 1, the cheap hall effect sensors. That was like two years ago. Since then it looks like some people complained about how hard it was to put together the sensors. "

Well, I made the page 1 unit even simpler and ditched the led as my switches are buried in the structure of the machine and you can't see them anyway. It was a simple matter to connect three wires and potted it in a routed out piece of plastic. For a magnet, I got some 1/8" dia 1/16" thick magnets off the bay and epoxied them in place.

Works like a charm, accurate, cheap!

[Al_The_Man]

As an extension to my last post, I should have mentioned that there are three basic types of Hall sensors, ones that require a magnet to operate, they can be bi-polar, unipolar or latching, the others are magnetically biased internally and uses a ferrous metal flag to upset the bias, there are also ones that will detect non-ferrous metal, if needed.
Al.

[justCNCit]

I was thinking of running the SR17C-J6 Honeywell Sensors through this.

Store | Romaxx CNC Router Systems

would that work? its just a straight thru BOB design.

[Falcon69]

Good News folks.

I got my reflow oven finished and working, so I should, by the end of this weekend, have the single LED (red) limit switches with the 3.5mm phone jacks ready for sale!

I have not yet decided on a final price yet. I need to account for my labor and the cost. I'm not in it for profit, but would like to recoup the money invested. So I'll think on it over this weekend.

The dual LED (red and green) Limit Switches with the mini-usb connection , rear control panel mounting, and Panel Mounting Red and Green LED indication for the control panel are not ready yet. They take alittle more time to do, as they require more hand soldering.

So, I'll keep ya all posted. fyi, they are looking awesome!

oh, and I also tested the 3.5mm phono jack ones, they are working perfectly. +5 volts applied, when triggered, the voltage drops to just 0.13 volts.

[jm82792]

I'll be waiting
I realize it would take me time to monkey with things, and I'm better off with you. Although 6 of your cheapest switches won't be much of an order though.

[Falcon69]

Small orders are just fine. I still need to figure out what the shipping costs would be also.

jm82792, what breakout board are you using? From reading, it looks like the G540 would need to have a 5.1v zener diode put on the switches so it will work.

I might just order some and include them with the switches. They seem pretty cheap, but would save people time to their local radio shack to get them.

I got all the boards finished using the reflow oven, now I just need to find the time to solder on all the LED's and the Sensors.

I have a Calculus test on Monday, so I'll be studying all day tomorrow :/

[jm82792]

I wish it was a G540, the Xylotex (plain Parallel port breakout) works but 35VDC limit isn't much.

Calculus sounds daunting. I recently learned/tested out general math on my own (from like 10nth grade level), and now I'm halfway through Precalc. It's not fun, I liked Financial Accounting 1&2 and a few other dozen courses a lot more

[Crevice Reamer]

I was thinking of running the SR17C-J6 Honeywell Sensors through this.

Store | Romaxx CNC Router Systems

would that work? its just a straight thru BOB design.

Hard to tell without BOB specs, but probably yes. Most BOBs use open collector NPN inputs. If yours does, then they should work.

You also need to know what Voltage the inputs can use. The SR17C can use 5 to 30V, but whatever Voltage you use has to also be acceptable to the BOB.

CR.

[Falcon69]

Got about 50 of the single LED ones made now. Just need to cut the leads off and test them. I won't be able to sel them just yet.

So, getting closer. They are looking great!

That Toaster oven I converted into a reflow oven is making quick work of everything. The only thing that takes time now is soldering on the LED's and the sensor, oh, and the placing of the components onto solder paste. The panelized boards are a neat idea though. Makes quick work of it.