[zephyr9900]

Based on Tom's recommendation in this thread, I bought a Decko/Barracuda/Superior submersible pump to replace the OEM pump in my home-built larger coolant tank. I also took the opportunity to implement an idea that I got from reading about Don's nipple sleeve (I probably could have worded that better... ) in this thread -- a riser for the coolant line.

First, since the pump has 1-1/4" NPT output threads, I bored out a suitable pipe cap, and machined down a 1/2" close nipple which I glued in the cap.

I made the riser from 1/2" Code 40 pipe just because of the threaded end (which ultimately turned out not to be necessary). I machined out a 3/4" PVC coupler on one end for a tight fit on the nipple in the Tormach stand, and cut the stop out of a 1/2"-to-3/4" bushing so that the 1/2" pipe would slip through. I cut down the O.D. of a 1/2" threaded coupling to slip through the Tormach stand nipple.

A few 1/2" NPT/FPT to 1/2" hose barb fittings (underground sprinkler fittings) and two pieces of 1/2" I.D. flexible PVC tubing completed the installation.

A service loop of the flexible tubing accommodates the full Z movement (two of the below pictures are at the extremes) and there is no leakage path down through the stand pan.

I stabilized the riser with a 1/2"-to-1-1/4" bushing split in half and clamped onto the riser up against the bottom face of the pan with a hose clamp.

So far I'm really happy with both the pump and the riser. The pump is almost silent compared to the OEM pump and starts pumping quickly. I did reuse the check valve that I had installed on the OEM pump early in my Tormach's career.

Given the way that the bottom end of the riser turned out, and the fact that I already used a slip-to-threaded elbow at the top end, I could have made the riser from plain pipe and turned down a slip-to-threaded coupling at the bottom end. (I could not find a 1/2" FPT to 1/2" barb fitting after much searching, which would have eliminated the coupling entirely.)

Anyone need an OEM coolant tank and pump? I'll sell them for $40 plus shipping. The pump has my "pumps down to the last drop" riser on the inlet and works as well as an OEM pump ever did.

Randy

[SteveKoerner]

Excellent. I printed out the pictures and intend to copy.

But, what is the idea of the check valve? Why?

[SteveKoerner]

Oh, I'll bet it's to get quicker response given that the tubing holds its charge.

But then with a more potent pump that benefit would be lesser and maybe not as worthwhile.

[tbaker2500]

Nice job, Randy! Puts my work to shame. :-)
I ended up just running flex tubing over the back of the enclosure, down to the Loc-Line, and then plugging the old feed hole. It looks like you have a much more substantial back plate on the stand there, what it that?
How are you feeding your separator tank from the tray?

Steve- Yes, check valve for quick start up. With the 8ft of 1" dia tubing I have in line, it can take almost a second to get blasting again.

I run that pump at about half pressure, and it blasts chips out of 7/8" deep pockets no problem. I no longer recut chips. Ever.

[zephyr9900]

Steve and Tom, thank you. Steve, yes, the check valve minimizes the coolant "on" delay. As you say, with the higher-output pump it isn't as important as with the OEM pump. (But there was still a noticable delay when I tried the new pump without the check valve.) Actually the service loop holds a little bit of coolant anyway and gives an initial "spurt" even if the check valve isn't used. That at least would prevent a dry cutter until the main flow arrived. But the near-instantaneoeus flow with the check valve is nice.

Tom, that is the rear wall of my full enclosure. There is a picture of the return in my tank thread. It's just a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe with right-angle fittings on each end. The tray end just fits in a stub of the original Tormach flexible tubing.

Randy

[tbaker2500]

Ah, very nice. Now, I've found the return tray hole to be too small and clogs easily. It couldn't hold up to a high flow rate with the new pump. That's why I abandoned it and went to a slot off the side dumping into my bucket. What's been your experience?

[zephyr9900]

Until I needed the room to install the riser, I hadn't pulled out the tray since I reinstalled the machine in 2010. And before the move I had never pulled it out for several years. I don't get swarf or chips in the tray. They're all stopped by the mesh strainer in the chip pan.

Are you getting chips down in the return line?

Randy

[tbaker2500]

Yes, lots of chips make it past the strainer. Always have. Glad they don't on yours!

[zephyr9900]

I'll post a picture when I'm home tonight, but early on I added a piece of coarse welded wire screen under the very fine screen that Tormach supplied to sturdi-fy it. I've never touched it since (I caulked the screen frame into the chip tray about the same time) and just scoop chips off of it and every once in a while use the shopvac to get finer chips off of it.

[later] OK, I added the picture of the screen. Caulking doesn't really show because I mainly bedded the screen frame in clear 100% silicone caulk, after I had sealed the surrounding flange in the chip tray with flowable silicone sealant from the auto parts store. This was all a part of my trying to solve the "stand leaking problem".

I also found a photo of my return line in its first iteration, when I was still using the OEM coolant tank. The little piece of flex tubing at the chip pan exit gives some useful flexibility to the return line positioning.

Randy

[tbaker2500]

Ah, caulking it is the trick, I'm sure. All the chips I have problems with go around the screen. I guess I don't really have a need to remove the filter, maybe I'll try caulk as well. Thanks.

[SteveKoerner]

I copied Randy's great idea with the riser...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89801400/201...2009.27.29.jpg

I used a big clear plastic tub for the 1/4 hp Superior brand pump. I can easily pull the tub to the front for servicing or push way back and still use that space under the left wing for the vacumn. The power cord, the pump outlet line, the return line and an aquarium air line are all bundled together. The aquarium pump is on a timer to come on for 30 minutes per day to keep the coolant from going stagnant when I'm not using the machine.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89801400/201...2009.24.39.jpg

I installed a larger diameter return line off the collection pan. It's bilge line that I got at Home Depot. I turned a spigot for the larger return hose and TIGed it to the pan.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89801400/201...2018.16.22.jpg

Here's the setup for cutting out the old small spigot using a 1-1/4" annular cutter.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89801400/201...2017.41.15.jpg

Here's a view of the pan in place. I reduced the fine spatter out of the pan by raising it up 3/4". Notice the 3/4" square tube sitting on the pan rails.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/89801400/201...2009.25.37.jpg

I did not put in a checkvalve. My observation is that the flow comes on much quicker with this pump than it did with the OEM pump.

[tbaker2500]

Great idea raising the pan! Great photos, thanks for showing!

[zephyr9900]

Steve, that looks great. At one point I had raised my chip pan up on 1x2 lumber like you have, but then I discovered that just keeping it pulled out by 2" or so prevented splashing out of the pan. Given the fact that I neveer have a chip in my chip pan, I've been thinking of making a funnel out of PVC sheet to fit closely around the chip strainer and eliminate the pan entirely.

The new pump is indeed much faster than the OEM pump, but I still like the check valve because I have my post proceessors set up to move down to safe height before turning on the coolant, to save unnecessary splashing, so I can use the most instant response I can get.

Randy