[GJeff]

I believe my 1100's Y axis ballscrew is not getting adequate oil. In any case, I will not be satisfied until I have confirmed there are no clogs in that particular line. Unfortunately, I cannot see a way to access it without removing, at the very least, the table. Am I wrong in this assumption? And how in the hell can I do that safely? Any clue what it weighs?

[TurboStep]

The 1100 weighs 70kg!
Step

[MichaelHenry]

It's not all that hard to remove the table enough to inspect the oil lines, though it does take a bit of care and some time. I may have a picture or two of the last time I did that and will upload later if I can find it at home.

Mike

[Bryan Turner]

GJeff,

Check this thread, I cover a technique for the 770, and several other users offer techniques that they've used for the 1100:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/tormac...or-x-axis.html

--Bryan

[GJeff]

Thanks Bryan, that helps a lot. And your method of sliding the table to the right is a nice one. I'm confident I'll be able to get to the two manifolds under there and of course the Z manifold is easy.

As for accessing the first splitter of the system, the Tee undearneath the base of the machine, has anyone managed to get to it on an 1100 simply by sliding the Y axis forward? I'm pretty sure I can get my hands on it from there, but as for actually doing anything with those hands in such cramped quarters, I don't know.

And Step, why was your ballscrew there in your picture? Did you replace it? Or did you just disconnect it and put it there as a safe place to store it without it getting bent?

Jeff

[GJeff]

Got the table off without any issues. You can see I left the edge of the table on, the rest of it is on a sturdy wooden platform. I unscrewed the manifolds, they weren't loose from the factory, and the mess in the back is a vinyl bib that guards my bellows.
Attachment 238596

My question now is about the ballnut. Here's a pic:
Attachment 238598

Are the ball bearings inside supposed to be just a jumbled mess like that when the ballscrew is removed? And do I have to do anything special when I thread it back in, or will the bearings just find their place naturally?

As for the splitter that's under the base, I don't think I can get to it easily enough. I'm going to bypass and replace it, I believe, and position it someplace that is more readily accessible.

Jeff

[GJeff]

And why would the X and Z gibs have no flow restrictors, but the Y gib does? It's like that in both the diagram and the actual assembly.

[SomeWhatLost]

I thought it was generally considered a "Very Bad Idea(tm)" to remove a ball screw from its nut, or at least a very time consuming exercise in chasing [bleeping] little balls around?

[johnedward]

oh my goodness, you should have researched a little more before you did that, you should have left the ballscrew where it was and removed the table, now you have to search about repacking a ballnut because you aren't going to be able to merely screw it back in the nut.

[GJeff]

I did what the guy from Tormach instructed as far as table removal, specifically instructing me to remove the rubber stopper. If it was some crazy feat to get the screw back in I'd hope he would have mentioned it...

[GJeff]

Welp, Erik at Tormach (not the same person I spoke to originally) confirmed I should not have been told to do that, as you suspected. Now I have to speak with Matt, as he's apparently one of the few who can help me now, and he's proving difficult to get a hold of.

Anybody know the specifics of these particular ballnuts? Looks to be internal returns, but not sure how many separate tracks (if there are separate tracks) nor how many balls per track. I'm quite sure no balls have escaped. I wonder if it will be possible to do with the ballnut in place horizontally where it is using the grease method... probably not.

[dammachines]

If I'm not mistaken those are dual ball nuts locked together with a pre-load spacer between them. If this one is like the Z-axis there should be cap screws on the left side holding the ball nut in. You'll definitely need to remove it to have any chance to reload.

I'm assuming the individual ball nuts will need to be separated, reloaded, then reassembled.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

It is possible, and not really all that difficult, to re-assemble a ballnut. I've done more than a few. The process depends on the construction of the particular ballnut. Some have removable returns, which makes the job pretty easy. Some have one-time returns that will be destroyed in the process of removing them. But, even those can be salvaged. I have a pair of 4 foot 25mm ground screws like that, and the returns can be replaced with simple plastic fabricated parts that are pressed in. If you remove the nut, and take some photos, I can probably tell you how to do it. The trick is not losing any balls - a few missing balls won't matter.

Regards,
Ray L.

[GJeff]

I'll definitely be playing with it later Ray, but much to my surprise Tormach has decided to ship me a replacement ball screw and ball nut assembly to make right.

Now my question is how to remove the old ball screw from its pair of annular bearings. Do I just completely remove the preloading nuts and knock it loose without even having to remove the ball screw cover plate?

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I'll definitely be playing with it later Ray, but much to my surprise Tormach has decided to ship me a replacement ball screw and ball nut assembly to make right.

Now my question is how to remove the old ball screw from its pair of annular bearings. Do I just completely remove the preloading nuts and knock it loose without even having to remove the ball screw cover plate?

Most likely, you'll have to remove the bearing mount, to make room to slide the new screw and nut into place. I'm sure it's doweled for location, so it'll go right back where it was. Just remove the bolts, and if necessary use a rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer to pop it free.

Regards,
Ray L.

[johnedward]

Tormach has decided to ship me a replacement ball screw and ball nut assembly to make right.

Now my question is how to remove the old ball screw from its pair of annular bearings. Do I just completely remove the preloading nuts and knock it loose without even having to remove the ball screw cover plate?

now that's customer service! now give Erik or Matt a call and get some more tormach expertise. i'm sure they'd help you once it shows up.

[dammachines]

Now my question is how to remove the old ball screw from its pair of annular bearings. Do I just completely remove the preloading nuts and knock it loose without even having to remove the ball screw cover plate?

I think If you try and "knock it loose" you stand a chance of damaging the balls in the angular contact bearings. I'm not sure that the inner race won't just end up popping out and throwing balls everywhere. If that happens you could be left with the outer race stuck in the bearing mount. I'd definitely call Tormach for guidance on the proper procedure.

Though now that I think about it, the hard part is getting the bearings off of the ball screw, not out of the bearing mount. Since you're replacing the screw I'd just get two new bearings and a spacer. Remove the spanner nuts and that plate that holds the bearings in. Then just carefully push the screw and bearing out...

Removing the bearings from the ball screw is fairly easy (especially after you've done it a few times) if the screw is still in the nut and the nut is still attached to the machine. Then you can block the table in place and turn the ballscrew, using it as it's own bearing puller...

Dave

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I think If you try and "knock it loose" you stand a chance of damaging the balls in the angular contact bearings. I'm not sure that the inner race won't just end up popping out and throwing balls everywhere. If that happens you could be left with the outer race stuck in the bearing mount. I'd definitely call Tormach for guidance on the proper procedure.

Though now that I think about it, the hard part is getting the bearings off of the ball screw, not out of the bearing mount. Since you're replacing the screw I'd just get two new bearings and a spacer. Remove the spanner nuts and that plate that holds the bearings in. Then just carefully push the screw and bearing out...

Removing the bearings from the ball screw is fairly easy (especially after you've done it a few times) if the screw is still in the nut and the nut is still attached to the machine. Then you can block the table in place and turn the ballscrew, using it as it's own bearing puller...

Dave

The bearings are one helluva lot tougher than that.. Besides, with the ballnut removed, there it no load on the bearings, beyond that imposed by the inertia of the screw. And there's no need to go King Kong on it anyway. The support should come off the table quite easily with a few gentle taps.

Regards,
Ray L.

[johnedward]

gjeff, i'd also ask erik or matt if new bearings will be included with the new screw then you won't have to worry about damaging the old ones, patience pays.

[dammachines]

The bearings are one helluva lot tougher than that.. Besides, with the ballnut removed, there it no load on the bearings, beyond that imposed by the inertia of the screw. And there's no need to go King Kong on it anyway. The support should come off the table quite easily with a few gentle taps.

Regards,
Ray L.

I agree, that should come of easily if he chooses to remove it - shouldn't be necessary, but might make things easier.

I was referring to trying to knock the ballscrew out of the bearings which I believe is what was being asked. They're pressed onto the ballscrew and won't come off quite as easily.
Also, if the ballscrew is successfully tapped out of the bearings you're then left with having to pull the bearings out of that support.

I suppose as long as the two bearings stay side by side they won't fall apart. I've learned that if you press on an angular contact bearing the wrong way the inner race will pop right out.

Dave