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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    161

    Cutting Aluminium

    Hi Guys

    Im cutting out some Aluminium motor brackets from 6082 Aluminium on my Taig with a 8mm 4 flute Carbide End mill.

    Should I be using lubricant? I have not bought a pump setup etc yet as I cannot figure out the best way to set it up (tray to catch the coolant etc, and does it need to be filtered?)

    where the plate is being cut out (1/4" flat bar) im getting nicks in the side wall of the piece that runs all the way down. I will try an attach an image as soon as I can resize it.

    Should I be able to cut aluminium dry? My problem may partially be that my spindle will only go as low as 10,000 rpm (Kress 800FME).

    What sort of IPM would I need to work with that? and what depth of cut?

    Any help uch appreciated.

    Thanks

    DJH

  2. #2
    you need some type of lube , use some wd40 or a spray bottle with soap . motor oil works ok as well
    or you can go to home depot to the pipe section and buy thier theading oil , its cheap and it works well
    you'd be better off using a 2 flt end mill if you have one
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    ATF. Automatic Transmission Fluid works like a charm on aluminum. Just brush it on.

    Also as mentioned a two flute cutter is best.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1

    Aluminium

    Hi
    I use a parrafin on my lathe apply with brush
    Cheers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    161
    Heya

    ok, so I deffo need lube? Is it worth going down the coolant flood road?

    As I don't want to sit their all day applying wd40.

    Also is the 2 flute better as it creates less heat? (less surface area of the tool on the material?)

    Thanks

    DJH

  6. #6
    2 flute wont pack up with chips and cause a meltdown , coolant would be the best choice , oils are the alternative
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    237
    Parrafin is kerosene!

    If you don't want to be tending the machine with a brush or spray bottle, Flood with water soluable oil (coolant) is best. Misters are unhealthy unless you have a "smog hog" ;-))

    I like the squirt bottle with sol. oil for milling alu. a squirt across the work piece, and then a bit more up high on the cutter so it runs down. repeat as required!

    Cal

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7063
    Quote Originally Posted by djh82uk View Post
    Heya

    ok, so I deffo need lube? Is it worth going down the coolant flood road?

    As I don't want to sit their all day applying wd40.

    Also is the 2 flute better as it creates less heat? (less surface area of the tool on the material?)

    Thanks

    DJH
    Get a mist coolant sprayer - all the benefits of flood, without all the mess. I use it on my knee mill, and it works great - virtually no mess, no smell, and uses VERY little coolant. I've been working through the same gallon of KoolMist for several years. I rarely use more than about 1/2 gallon of diluted Koolmist in a full day of *heavy* milling.

    For aluminum, use only 2-flute, or special 3-flute "aluminum cutting" endmills. 4-flutes will clog up very quickly in aluminum.

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    386
    I worked on knee mills and engine lathes for years without flood coolant. We used flood type coolants dispensed from spray bottles. Of course this wouldn't do for a 3 hour contour milling job but it will get you by in a pinch. I am surprised at the number of posts I see discussing milling aluminum with carbide... although I see that carbide tooling has come down in cost considerably, the low spindle speeds available on hobby mills make HSS a more appropriate choice. HSS tooling can be dressed with standard grinding wheels as well. Also, the suggestions to stick to 2 or 3 flute end mills are good advice (3 flutes are stronger and deflect less but concentrate heat more).
    Joe

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7063
    Quote Originally Posted by scudzuki View Post
    I worked on knee mills and engine lathes for years without flood coolant. We used flood type coolants dispensed from spray bottles. Of course this wouldn't do for a 3 hour contour milling job but it will get you by in a pinch. I am surprised at the number of posts I see discussing milling aluminum with carbide... although I see that carbide tooling has come down in cost considerably, the low spindle speeds available on hobby mills make HSS a more appropriate choice. HSS tooling can be dressed with standard grinding wheels as well. Also, the suggestions to stick to 2 or 3 flute end mills are good advice (3 flutes are stronger and deflect less but concentrate heat more).
    Joe
    I have a knee mill with a 3HP spindle, that I run up to 8200 RPM. Mist provides all the cooling that machine requires, even when run to it's limits (~4 cu. in./min. removal rate in 6061). Neither my tools nor my work ever get more than warm to the touch, even when pushing a 3/4" HSS endmill as hard as it can be pushed. Flood really seems like serious overkill to me on a hobby machine - good for bragging rights, but not much else. All the talk about the alleged health problems with mist I think come from using it improperly. If you're getting enough in the air to give you breathing problems, you're using too much. I just finished spending the whole day making a mountain of aluminum chips, and used about a quart of KoolMist mix.

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  11. #11
    I'm running a CNCed X1 Micro Mill with flood cooling and I think it's a worthwhile upgrade to do. My opinion is that the tiny mills like the X1 (maybe the taig too) don't really have the HP or the rigidity to maintain proper speeds for the cutting tools in aluminum so end up being really hard on the cutting tools and creating poor cuts. After adding flood cooling, the cutting tools are lasting longer, the chips being cut are nice and shiny and the surface finish of the cuts are much improved.

    Plus flood cooling forces you to build an enclosure which really cuts down on the mess and the noise so you get some side benefits too.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7063
    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingElectron View Post
    I'm running a CNCed X1 Micro Mill with flood cooling and I think it's a worthwhile upgrade to do. My opinion is that the tiny mills like the X1 (maybe the taig too) don't really have the HP or the rigidity to maintain proper speeds for the cutting tools in aluminum so end up being really hard on the cutting tools and creating poor cuts. After adding flood cooling, the cutting tools are lasting longer, the chips being cut are nice and shiny and the surface finish of the cuts are much improved.

    Plus flood cooling forces you to build an enclosure which really cuts down on the mess and the noise so you get some side benefits too.

    Yes, but you never tried mist, did you? I can guarantee you mist would've given all the same functional benefits, without the enclosure, and the mess of flood. Flood works just fine, and makes perfect sense on a production shop VMC, but it's overkill on a small machine. You must have an enclosure, you must deal with the unavoidable mess, potential biological problems, and the extra expense of the coolant. That all goes away with mist, and you're left with just the benefits.

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    187
    Quote Originally Posted by HimyKabibble View Post
    Yes, but you never tried mist, did you? I can guarantee you mist would've given all the same functional benefits, without the enclosure, and the mess of flood. Flood works just fine, and makes perfect sense on a production shop VMC, but it's overkill on a small machine. You must have an enclosure, you must deal with the unavoidable mess, potential biological problems, and the extra expense of the coolant. That all goes away with mist, and you're left with just the benefits.

    Regards,
    Ray L.
    Extra expense of coolant? flood recirculates the coolant dude. It doesn't turn it into a vapor that's lost forever.
    The water evaporates so you just add more.
    Calling flood on a small machine overkill is inane, the small machines are easy to enclose, unlike a kneemill which only leaves you the option of mist.
    you've never tried flood have you?
    not hearing that constant hiss and the noise of a compressor would quickly make you a proponent of flood.
    Bill

  14. #14
    actually flood coolant will get in the air just the same , look around any machine shop , everything gets layered in oil , heat generation causes a lot of coolant loss with no doubt , i will agree that the mist system doesn't recirculate but it is a very efficient setup if done correctly
    and as pointed out previously if a hobby machine sits for days on end it will become a biologicaly mess
    both have their benefit but in my opinion if a hobby machine isnt running 24/7 then whats the point
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    161
    Thanks guys

    Well i went with flood, sorry to dissapoint, but as my workshop is in a residential area, and i plan to be milling in the evenings it makes sense to not have a compressor running all the time, also the amount of mist i would be using would bankrupt me.

    The machine will be running for 8 hours a day, I have built an enclosure on my worktop that my mill and my lathe fit into, I used 1mm thick floor tiles and Swimming pool tile adhesive for the base and the side walls. There is then a drain plug for it to run into a tank to re-circulate.

    I have not been able to find any mist hardware in the uk as of yet, but may try it on my lathe in the future as my 2nd mill will take it's place in the bath.

    Does anyone have any links to info on flood coolant, how to look after it etc.

    Also would silicon sealant cause any problems with mineral oil, water based coolant?

    Thanks

    DJH

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7063
    Quote Originally Posted by djh82uk View Post
    Thanks guys

    Well i went with flood, sorry to dissapoint, but as my workshop is in a residential area, and i plan to be milling in the evenings it makes sense to not have a compressor running all the time, also the amount of mist i would be using would bankrupt me.

    The machine will be running for 8 hours a day, I have built an enclosure on my worktop that my mill and my lathe fit into, I used 1mm thick floor tiles and Swimming pool tile adhesive for the base and the side walls. There is then a drain plug for it to run into a tank to re-circulate.

    I have not been able to find any mist hardware in the uk as of yet, but may try it on my lathe in the future as my 2nd mill will take it's place in the bath.

    Does anyone have any links to info on flood coolant, how to look after it etc.

    Also would silicon sealant cause any problems with mineral oil, water based coolant?

    Thanks

    DJH
    "the amount of mist i would be using would bankrupt me." - I've been running for years on the same gallon of KoolMist that I paid $16 for. That gallon is enough to make something like 32 gallons of coolant. On my worst day, running 10 hours non-stop, making literally a 33 gallon garbage can full of chips, I'll go through less than a half gallon of mix.

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    Quote Originally Posted by djh82uk View Post
    ....Does anyone have any links to info on flood coolant, how to look after it etc.

    Also would silicon sealant cause any problems with mineral oil, water based coolant?

    Thanks

    DJH
    Are you talking about a water mixed coolant? On machines that run daily you don't need to do very much; occasionally skim off tramp oil but that is all. Often the carry-out with chips means the coolant is replaced over a matter of several weeks.

    With machines that sit idle for days or weeks at a time the coolant can stagnate and become anaerobic; that is when smelly bugs start having a field day. I have heard of people using aquarium air bubblers to keep the coolant oxygenated. Another approach is to run the coolant pump every few days.

    Regarding silicone sealant it is pretty well impervious to oil or water based coolants. If you are using this to seal an enclosure it may be better to the the type for use in bathrooms because it contains a fungicide.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1865
    I have had good luck with my coolant and sometimes it will sit for a week. If I could remember the brand I would tell you but I put it in and it works. I got a 5 gal pail from toolbuyers network since they are close to me in CT.

    I tried mist on my Taig, but I was using wd-40, big mistake. I will try proper mist again as it looks to be a good otion and doesn't require as much stuff as flood does.
    Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out.

  19. #19
    synthetics might be worth looking at , they cost more but they won't go skanky , cimtech makes a good synthetic ,its pricey but worth the money
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  20. #20
    I'm using TRIM SC200 for my coolant. No particular reason except I think it was on sale at enco when I needed to buy the coolant. It seems to work well on 6061 aluminum. It gets a little funky smelling if it sits for a few weeks and I don't turn it on, but the smell seems to go away if I run it for a bit.

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