[Thecerb]

i have a GE Fanuc Series O-T (a61l-0001-0093) it came out of a Excel SL-320HS ; the CRT went out yesterday and was loooking through the fourms about switching it to LCD display, i came across a couple of people that have done it with different models of Fanucs.

They just change the old honda connector with a vga and a fequency converter to bring it to the right fequency.


Really just wanted to know if anyone has done this before and where they got the parts.

And what frequency the output of the a61l-0001-0093 is.

thanks for any help

[tc429]

before swapping it out, lock it out and take a look very closely at the side board- theres a circular array of pins that go to the flyback transformer, I'd say 3/4 of the bad screens Ive seen you could fix by simply taking a soldering iron and remelting the solder on those pins- very common failure is there will be little ringlike cracks around the pins- gotta look close to see them, but it happens a lot.

[fordav11]

you can get the parts on ebay.
just search 'CGA TO VGA CONVERTER' or 'XVGA BOX'

re-soldering the flyback and any other suspect solder joints may fix it, but be sure to discharge the tube and remover the suction cap or you'll get 20000 volts up your soldering iron and up YOU if you touch the flyback solder connections with anything metal or your hand etc.

[tc429]

Ive always been leery of pulling the high voltage lead unless I needed to remove the tube...the pins should all be low voltage, and a high voltage dc charge in the tube shouldnt be able to pass thru a transformer should it???

maybe i better be more careful next time, never really thought about it- thanks.

when pulling tubes/flyback I always shunt out the tube, only found a charged tube once(14" color), seems to me they usually dissipate pretty quick, but it gave off a hell of a spark when discharging, and it had been unpowered for months...I thought they were over 50,000 volts? know its enough you wouldnt want to be in its path...

[jolulank]

you can get the parts on ebay.
just search 'CGA TO VGA CONVERTER' or 'XVGA BOX'

re-soldering the flyback and any other suspect solder joints may fix it, but be sure to discharge the tube and remover the suction cap or you'll get 20000 volts up your soldering iron and up YOU if you touch the flyback solder connections with anything metal or your hand etc.

How do you discharge the tube?

jolulank

[fordav11]

gee! the flyback is live if the tube is connected. it's a wonder you are still alive if you soldered a live flyback. even without that there are usually large 200V electrolytic capacitors just near the flyback and those definitely hold power for a long time even if off for years.
easiest way to zap it is get a long screwdriver and connect a wire with alligator clips to it then clip the other end of the wire to the ground wire braided strap that crosses over the tube. then stick the screwdriver under the cap. be careful you are not touching the screwdriver metal shaft. it may be dead but you may also hear a 'crack' noise and see a blue spark.
newer monitors have a circuit to discharge the tube but there are plenty of older monitors still out there that hold their charge. always better to be safe than dead (there is no 'better safe than sorry' there's only dead.)

[jolulank]

gee! the flyback is live if the tube is connected. it's a wonder you are still alive if you soldered a live flyback. even without that there are usually large 200V electrolytic capacitors just near the flyback and those definitely hold power for a long time even if off for years.
easiest way to zap it is get a long screwdriver and connect a wire with alligator clips to it then clip the other end of the wire to the ground wire braided strap that crosses over the tube. then stick the screwdriver under the cap. be careful you are not touching the screwdriver metal shaft. it may be dead but you may also hear a 'crack' noise and see a blue spark.
newer monitors have a circuit to discharge the tube but there are plenty of older monitors still out there that hold their charge. always better to be safe than dead (there is no 'better safe than sorry' there's only dead.)

Sorry,

I did not read this before

jolulank

[Al_The_Man]

Usually there is no risk from the transformer if connected to the tube, there is the HV rectifier in between the tube charge and XFMR so this is reverse biased when connected.
The HV on a large colour CRT is between 20kv & 30Kv.
I am sorry I did not pick up all the TTL low scan monitors I could before they all went to the Dump.
I've used a few of these in the past on Fanuc and Mutsubishi.
Al.

[tc429]

Usually there is no risk from the transformer if connected to the tube, there is the HV rectifier in between the tube charge and XFMR so this is reverse biased when connected.

Thats kinda always been my guy feeling too, but honestly never looked to see if the high voltage went to a bottom pin...didnt think it could as doubt the board would tolerate that voltage, plus as there is typically no shield over the board- but i never looked to verify.

Always been leery of pulling the hv lead, just because ive heard how much power the tube can store...like i said, the one i discharged that did pop, made a helluva bang...ive only ever pulled them when removing a tube or transformer, same thing, stuff a grounded screwdriver under the boot...

Saw a 14" color monitor acting up one day, opened the door, hmm, someone put a light in the cabinet-nope. The hv lead from the flyback was glowing like a flourescent tube! Cant help but wonder about all those xray warnings on the tubes- if the flyback voltage soars it cant be healthy being anywhere near the thing... The adjustable flybacks on the 14" screens are no longer available- and they seemed a common issue on the big screens. On the 9" monos though, ive onle ever seen a few failures besides cracked solder on the unsupported flyback pins...seen many dozens of them, they really should have supported the transformer on those that were mounted sideways by the pcb pins only...

[cwtoyota]

I have tried one of the arcade converters on my Fanuc 15MA controller. It does not work correctly, it's obvious that the frequency range is close, but not quite low enough as I can see a broken image on the VGA display.

My CRT is still working great, but I would like to replace it before it has an issue.
I have since found this product below which seems to be a low cost solution. I will probably give it a try in a few months when I have some free time:

MVC007 - CNC, Industrial, Arcade Video Converters, Games & Parts

[fordav11]

The voltage on the board would be ~200AC. So still not good to be touching it when it's connected, even if off.

We had a couple of the 14" screens fail (on Mori SL's) and the flyback caught fire. we sent them out to a local guy and he replaced the flyback and other parts and they work fine now.
or did. one is dead again. an operator set the machine and only put in 1 bolt on all 3 of the jaws, he was lucky to complete one part but the 2nd part flew out of the chuck when the jaw bolts bent under hydraulic pressure load and the large part smashed against the inside of the machine and blew up the monitor and damaged a lot of other stuff too. He claimed the bolts broke. I've never seen 12mm high tensile bolts break from 20kg chuck pressure. Very suspect hmmmm ;-)

[csjohnson]

our LCD display can 1:1 replace FANUC A61L-0001-0093 crt display.http://www.aiderry.com/html/product/a61l-0001-0093.html