Steve is pointing out how milling the soft jaws parallel to the axis gets rid of any inaccuracy in the "precision t-slot", allowing the vise keys to be used and still achieve good accuracy.
Good tip.
But Steve, I suspect others besides Ray missed your point, so instead of sniping, how about just helping out. Bickering in this forum probably drives away a number of would-be Tormach customers.
Tim
Tormach 1100-3, Grizzly G0709 lathe, Clausing 8520 mill, SolidWorks, HSMWorks.
Naw, I'm glad this thread is still alive because it's something that plagues a lot of us. I checked mine, and thought, ok out by .0015 at the most, not too bad. But after reading this I now know it could be tuned a lot better. If there any pics around of the front support, third leg, I, for one, would like to see'em. Also would like to know what you used for shims.
I cut a piece of 5/8 thick steel plate 10" X 7" and slid it in from the side under and around to the front, to spread the front center temporary"3rd leg" weight out.
There was just room to slide the end if a slim crowbar in and raise the base casting enough to get a piece if .250 squair keystock in centered.
Measuring both sides with feelers revealed an astounding 100 thou difference........... I am letting it "rest" 48 hours in the three point position ,
hopefully some of the twist will spring out of the base.
I got an asortment pack of about a dozen 6" X 10" stainless steel shims from MSC they start at .001 and go up to .032
Going to try cutting them into an L shape about an inch wide , each leg 3" long
Dave Lawrence
I ordered a pack of precision brass shims off Amazon and cut them with a 3/8" center notch to slide the shims around the bolt.
Used a hand crowbar like tactical keychain used on his video. Worked great but I stopped before I got it perfect. It is currently good enough for my work.