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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    21

    Speeds n Feeds

    Hi Folks,

    Does anyone know of a good reference for speeds and feeds associated with routing wood? I've just finished a new build and I'm already charring up bits and throwing sparks! Am I cutting too deep or too fast? Am I using the wrong bit?

    Here is my setup in a nutshell:
    1) I've got a cheap trim router from Menards as my spindle.
    2) I've got a speed controller I bought off the net somewhere.
    3) I've been using high speed bits, but I could switch to carbide or something else if needed.
    4) I'm cutting plywood at the moment. I'll be cutting oak, plastic, and foam in the future.
    5) I've been making 1/4" wide cuts at about 1/8" deep.
    6) My machine is only running at 8ipm.

    It would be nice to find a table similar to a machinist's handbook that listed different kinds of wood then told the best bits, speeds, cut dimensions, and such.

    Does anyone know of such a thing?

    Thanks,
    Jessica

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    https://www.onsrud.com/xdoc/FeedSpeeds

    It's specific to their tools, but should still give you a reference. High speed steel has an extremely short life when cutting wood.

    Burning is from going to slow and spinning too fast. 8 ipm is much too slow to prevent burning.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    21
    Unfortunately I can only do 8ipm. Would dropping the spindle speed compensate for this? What would be the result of switching to carbide bits?

    -Jessica

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Quote Originally Posted by jessbussert View Post
    Would dropping the spindle speed compensate for this?
    Yes, but I don't think you can drop it enough. Carbide will stay sharp longer, but may still dull quickly at those slow speeds.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    21
    Ok, so lets say for plywood and oak, what spindle speed and feed rate would be best for carbide bits?

    Will lighter cuts help keep the heat down?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Go back to the charts I posted, which will tel you about 180ipm at 18000 rpm. You asked what would be best, and that's it. At 8ipm, there's not much you can do. Doing the math, you should be spinning the cutter at 800rpm. But at that speed, the bit will probably break and the cut quality would be very poor.

    As for light cuts, that's probably your best bet. Start at 1/32" per pass and increase to find what works best for your machine.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    21

    180ipm???

    Eeek! How does one get 180 ipm on a home built machine? I'm using steppers, not servos, so that slows me down. I'm also only using 1/4"-20 threaded rod for my drive screws. I chose those because I wanted high resolution for small, fine pieces in wax but I'm now somewhat regretting that decision. 5/8"-10 acme screws would have been a better choice, but even that would only give me 16 ipm.

    I'm going slow because at faster speeds I seem to get chatter on my steppers. At 8 ipm they run nice and smooth with a bunch of torque.

    Any tips or suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Jessica

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    You can get ~200-300ipm with a HobbyCNC board, 300 oz steppers, and 1/2-10 5 start acme.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    21
    Jessica,

    I have the same issue using 1/4-20, and can't go any faster than 10-12 in/min.
    See these videos and read the original thread they were posted.

    I haven't implemented this change yet but I'm working on it.

    "
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=32284&page=4

    20 ipm the resonance was bad. No MACH 3 settings were ever changed!
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RoOZs9LrYo"]YouTube - 20 inches per minute resonce in stepper[/ame]

    50 IPM missed steps
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivDQTeGuduk"]YouTube - 50 ipm test[/ame]

    65 IPM motor gets really unhappy in this one!!!!!!
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Am69_F93yA"]YouTube - 65 ipm[/ame]

    "

    regards,
    Lucian
    Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
    Albert Einstein, (1879 - 1955)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    21
    Thanks Lucian,

    Do you have any plans for building dampers? I'd love to see them!

    Jessica

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    21
    Try the first post on this page,

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=32284&page=4

    "twice2" posted some DXFs

    Lucian
    Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
    Albert Einstein, (1879 - 1955)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    21
    Hmmm...

    I can't open those DXFs. That doesn't surprise me since my ACAD is an old v14! Is it possible to repost those as an older format of DWG/DXF? Or perhaps just send a JPG export? I don't really need a mechanical drawing. I'm more interested in the theory of how they work and the thread doesn't go into that much. Is it just kind of like balancing a tire or is there something else to this?

    Thanks,
    Jessica

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    21
    The first post on the first page of that thread has pictures and lots of details about it...

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32284

    I've read the whole thread and found out that it works even made of hardwood.

    Lucian
    Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
    Albert Einstein, (1879 - 1955)

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