[hoss2006]

Hi Hoss,

I was looking at your array of goodies for your new control pannel and was wondering what you are going to use as an interface to mach3 ? Modbus?

Thanks
Sean

I'll be using a few devices, breakout boards, Pokeys and a usb game controller.
For the most part I only need keyboard emulation since I'll be emulating buttons
on the Mach screens or ones that I'll add to them.
Hoss

[Starleper1]

If your not planning on having long runs of wire, RS232 will do just fine.

[hoss2006]

The G0704 doesn't have a spindle lock to help while tightening/loosening the drawbar.
I made a couple wrenches for the belt drives that held onto the splines but they won't work
with the power drawbar.
I came up with this spanner wrench before nodding off yesterday and cranked one out today.
Problem solved.
Works great!
Requires drilling (2) .250 x .1875 holes in the spindle but it's only slightly case hardened and the drill bits had no trouble.
To keep the spindle from rotating while I hand drilled the holes, I put a rod in a collet
and clamped onto it with the vise.
The print shows .650 thick stock because that's what I had, .500 - .750 will do fine.
Didn't put a lot of dimensions because all I was really concerned with was the profile
from the DXF to use in my CAM software.
Print provided for your personal use.
I may add them to the store but not anytime soon.
Tried out the super chrome powdercoat from Columbia Coatings, looks sweet.
Looks a lot shinier than the pics show.
Made a couple knobs on the mill instead of knurled ones for the drawbar.
Hoss

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83D3b3uh2b0"]YouTube - G0704 Hoss Spindle Spanner Wrench.wmv[/nomedia]

[Starnovice]

<snip>
Tried out the super chrome powdercoat from Columbia Coatings, looks sweet.
Looks a lot shinier than the pics show.
<snip>

YouTube - G0704 Hoss Spindle Spanner Wrench.wmv

I hate it when I waste your time with questions and then find that if I just read a couple of more messages my question would have been answered. Sorry, I try not to do that.

[Journey_Man]

Hey there Hoss...Awesome Work!! I have one of the same Powder Coat Guns.
Watch the "Red Knob" It will break! mine broke the second time I used the Gun...so i made another one out of delrin...it wont break again. Also here is a link to Summit Racing on Ebay...they have the Powder Cups @ 9.95 ea.
Also Harbor Freight sells "Matt Black" Powder I bought some and it looks just like Black Anodized Alum.....Just thought I would let you know....
Summit Racing Powder Coat Powder Cup 01-05100-150 - eBay (item 370487435616 end time Mar-25-11 15:39:18 PDT)

[diyengineer]

Hey there Hoss...Awesome Work!! I have one of the same Powder Coat Guns.
Watch the "Red Knob" It will break! mine broke the second time I used the Gun...so i made another one out of delrin...it wont break again. Also here is a link to Summit Racing on Ebay...they have the Powder Cups @ 9.95 ea.
Also Harbor Freight sells "Matt Black" Powder I bought some and it looks just like Black Anodized Alum.....Just thought I would let you know....
Summit Racing Powder Coat Powder Cup 01-05100-150 - eBay (item 370487435616 end time Mar-25-11 15:39:18 PDT)

Agreed. Mine broke as well!! soon as i touched it. Other then that, everything is solid.

[hoss2006]

Hey there Hoss...Awesome Work!! I have one of the same Powder Coat Guns.
Watch the "Red Knob" It will break! mine broke the second time I used the Gun...so i made another one out of delrin...it wont break again. Also here is a link to Summit Racing on Ebay...they have the Powder Cups @ 9.95 ea.
Also Harbor Freight sells "Matt Black" Powder I bought some and it looks just like Black Anodized Alum.....Just thought I would let you know....
Summit Racing Powder Coat Powder Cup 01-05100-150 - eBay (item 370487435616 end time Mar-25-11 15:39:18 PDT)

Funny you'd say that, I broke the red knob coating this part, a piece of duct tape
is holding it in place now.
Excellent link, thanks!, just ordered a couple of them.
Hoss

[LeeWay]

What red knob?
I ordered one to try out. I would want a spare cup or two as well, just in case one breaks.
I have a different type gun now that uses different cups, so I don't have to clean out the cups to change colors. Just the gun itself.
Makes it a little easier.
Thanks.

Hoss, that spindle wrench is only for manual mode, correct?
Looks great, BTW.

[hoss2006]

The red knob keeps the cup in place on the gun, it slides onto the gun, a piece of tape does the job.
Got extra cups for the same reason, not having to change powders as much.
I'll probably leave one with the chrome in all the time since it can be used as a base color
for the candies and translucents.
Still need the wrench to tighten the drawbar for the power drawbar to set the load and for
swapping it out to use a facemill or whatever.
Hoss

[BAR553]

An intersting site and use of CNC. I particularly enjoyed his process link.

Chris Bathgate Sculpture

[rwskinner]

He has some cool stuff and an imagination for sure. Man, he must have way too much free time on his hands. It would take me months or maybe years to do something like that.

[hoss2006]

He has some cool stuff and an imagination for sure. Man, he must have way too much free time on his hands. It would take me months or maybe years to do something like that.

Gotta agree with you there.
I don't have enough time to make practical stuff let alone impractical.
Maybe when we retire.
Hoss

[ncdeftones]

Heck yeah, I got an email from Chris @ CJA Masterworks stating my ballscrews are ready and being shipped out. I'm gad to see someone has them premade for us without the equipment. After I ordered them I ended up buying a little 7x10 Harbor Freight mini-lathe (gotta love those 20% off coupons), but I don't know if it could even do the ballscrews on such a small lathe nor do I want to learn how to make/scrap them as my first project.

My stock for making the belt drive conversion should be here today and my Little Machine Shop mini-lathe tooling should be here tomorrow. I think I'm going to use the Leeson motor to start out with until I figure out a better way to use the treadmill motor. Both of them turn the opposite of the stock motor, but the Leeson is the only one I know for sure is 100% reversible. I tested the tread mill motor in reverse and it seems ok, it definitely wasn't like Hoss's thread mill test motor that shot sparks in reverse.

Here is the problem I have though...the Leeson motor is a 2500 rpm motor which matches the stock spindle speed if I use 1:1 ratio pulleys. However, I'd much rather have upward of at least 4000 RPM minimum. I know I'll reduce torque if I run a bigger pulley on the motor than on the spindle (which might be a little bit tricky due to the spacing constraints). Does anyone foresee the torque reduction being a huge issue? The Leeson is rated as 90V, 7.6 Amps, 2500 RPMs, and 18.9 in/lbs of torque. The stock motor is rated at 3.8 Amps with an unknown torque rating, but I'm pretty sure the Leeson has a lot more.

[ncdeftones]

I'm using a pulley calculator and I'll definitely be lucky to get 4K because of pulley size constraints.

[hoss2006]

Looks good, welcome to the world of high speed.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

The power drawbar is pretty much done now.
I'll be looking for a couple solenoid valves later, probably when something pops up at Surplus Center.
This one does work for double acting cylinders but always puts out air in one
direction when it's de-energized, then switches ports when energized.
I don't want air always going to the cylinder to hold it up, it's not necessary,
mine will stay put once I retract it.
It's also supposed to have a manual switch but the tiny little plastic knob does nothing.
Not much worried about that since once the console is done, I'll have a switch on it for the drawbar.
Will keep the solenoids remote from the mill.
Now on to yanking the saddle and finishing the oil passages for the dovetails.
Hoss

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6S320sPg_I"]YouTube - G0704 Power Drawbar.wmv[/nomedia]

[hoss2006]

I noticed my little air compressor will do over 150 psi, at least that's what the gauge says.
That could give me about 3100 lbs of force out of this air cylinder.
I'll have to order some new bellevilles from McMaster to try it out.
They have some the same size I'm using now just thicker with a 2780 lb load rating
so I should get around 2500 lbs on the drawbar with enough room for release.
We shall see.
So much for being finished.
Hoss

[pete from TN]

Hey man I wonder how practical it would be to put a spring on the shaft to push up on the piston.... it would then only require the solenoid to push the piston down.... I am working on my cylinder to get over 3k of force but my machine is down right now due to a computer issue and some backlash problems I just fixed. Got any advice on a nice SMALL computer to run inside the eclosure? I am trying to find a good price on a nice little one.

My standup compressor delivers near 145 psi on top and has air to spare. I was planning on setting up my cylinder to operate at around 120 psi so I can get the max x clamping force I can get. At that pressure the compressor SHOULD hardly come on for that cylinder. The bore I am using is 3.75 with a piston shaft of 3/4 inch journals. I will have a stroke of about 5/16 tho so kinda short. Should be enough I hope....

Nice work on the drawbar man, very cool and inspiring. I am hoping mine works as well. I am glad I guess I did not buy that solenoid you did from the sounds of it. I am seriously thinking of getting the same solenoid you got from the same company on ebay but the one that has the little lever arm to manually change back and forth. This is temporary until I ever get around to a toolchanger design. I would love to be able to do that but right now I would be tickled to have just the high power drawbar working. Would make it quieter and quicker to change tools and that is all I really need right now. At some point I think a Rack mounted toolchanger will be in my future unless I sell this whole damn thing and buy a small VMC.... Hoping I can have both so I can play with my RF45 while the REAL machine is making me money:cheers::idea: Hey I can dream can't I!! peace man

Pete

[hoss2006]

Hey man I wonder how practical it would be to put a spring on the shaft to push up on the piston.... it would then only require the solenoid to push the piston down.... I am working on my cylinder to get over 3k of force but my machine is down right now due to a computer issue and some backlash problems I just fixed. Got any advice on a nice SMALL computer to run inside the eclosure? I am trying to find a good price on a nice little one.

My standup compressor delivers near 145 psi on top and has air to spare. I was planning on setting up my cylinder to operate at around 120 psi so I can get the max x clamping force I can get. At that pressure the compressor SHOULD hardly come on for that cylinder. The bore I am using is 3.75 with a piston shaft of 3/4 inch journals. I will have a stroke of about 5/16 tho so kinda short. Should be enough I hope....

Nice work on the drawbar man, very cool and inspiring. I am hoping mine works as well. I am glad I guess I did not buy that solenoid you did from the sounds of it. I am seriously thinking of getting the same solenoid you got from the same company on ebay but the one that has the little lever arm to manually change back and forth. This is temporary until I ever get around to a toolchanger design. I would love to be able to do that but right now I would be tickled to have just the high power drawbar working. Would make it quieter and quicker to change tools and that is all I really need right now. At some point I think a Rack mounted toolchanger will be in my future unless I sell this whole damn thing and buy a small VMC.... Hoping I can have both so I can play with my RF45 while the REAL machine is making me money:cheers::idea: Hey I can dream can't I!! peace man

Pete

My original design was spring return but I couldn't find a spring with just enough force that didn't cost a bunch and would have wire size small enough to allow it to compress a 1/2 inch and have a short overall length.
It would have added over an inch to the length of the cylinder.
I also wanted to make sure that the cylinder retracted completely every time
so double acting was a no brainer.
Instead of this solenoid, I should have picked up a couple like I used on the X2
which were less than $10.
I like that lever solenoid, I may have to try and find one I saw on Ebay for $12 again.
Sell equipment? I can't fathom ever doing something like that.
Maybe I am a hoarder.
The best scenario would be to have redundant capabilities in the shop if you want to go into business.
Things break down so it's a must to have another way to crank out parts
while the other machines down for repairs.
If I had a garage the vehicles would have been relegated to carports pretty quick.
Hoss

[gauthib12]

Princess Auto in Canada have these..but not sure if DC would be what you need?....just a thought...:cheers:

http://www.princessauto.com/power-tr...-control-valve

http://www.princessauto.com/power-tr...-control-valve