[hoss2006]

Hoss,

do your phase2 plans include information on AC bearings for the ballscrews, where to buy them, and prints for bearing blocks and preloading them properly?

If so, how much are the bearings that you're recommending?

Yes to all, the most expensive AC's are for the Z axis at $8.43 for Nachi's.
Hoss

[tmbg]

Excellent. I placed an order for a g0704 and a
G0602, but they're both backordered. I figure I'll snag the plans from you so
I can keep the wheel reinvention to a minimum. Intending to go with roton screws and oversized balls. I have a Bridgeport clone and an old
Clausing 12x40 lathe so the conversion should be a piece of cake.

[mwood3]

will the precut stock kit come with the phase 2 plans as well? the link goes to the phase 1 and 2 plans together just didnt spell it out in the stock kit link...

[hoss2006]

will the precut stock kit come with the phase 2 plans as well? the link goes to the phase 1 and 2 plans together just didnt spell it out in the stock kit link...

I'll probably just Phase out the stock and hardware kits, too many options
and not worth the trouble.
The phase 2 version barely needs any stock or hardware to complete.
Hoss

[mwood3]

I'll probably just Phase out the stock and hardware kits, too many options
and not worth the trouble.
The phase 2 version barely needs any stock or hardware to complete.
Hoss

lol, ok lets try that from a different angle...

if i buy the stock kit now, will it include both the phase 1 and 2 prints?

[hoss2006]

lol, ok lets try that from a different angle...

if i buy the stock kit now, will it include both the phase 1 and 2 prints?

too late, the ax has fallen.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Excellent. I placed an order for a g0704 and a
G0602, but they're both backordered. I figure I'll snag the plans from you so
I can keep the wheel reinvention to a minimum. Intending to go with roton screws and oversized balls. I have a Bridgeport clone and an old
Clausing 12x40 lathe so the conversion should be a piece of cake.

You should have no problems.
My thinkin too is to keep the big equipment manual and CNC the smaller stuff.
Hoss

[tmbg]

You should have no problems.
My thinkin too is to keep the big equipment manual and CNC the smaller stuff.
Hoss

My big clausing is actually kinda worn out, unfortunately, but that's ok for manual work. My knee mill is in very good shape, and I have a nice Anilam DRO on it. Just didn't seem like a good CNC conversion candidate, mostly cause I didn't want the DRO money to go to waste.


Anyway, I paid for a set of phase2 plans this morning! Looking forward to seeing them. I figure I can start getting stock together and machining parts while I wait on grizzly's backorder.

[hoss2006]

My big clausing is actually kinda worn out, unfortunately, but that's ok for manual work. My knee mill is in very good shape, and I have a nice Anilam DRO on it. Just didn't seem like a good CNC conversion candidate, mostly cause I didn't want the DRO money to go to waste.


Anyway, I paid for a set of phase2 plans this morning! Looking forward to seeing them. I figure I can start getting stock together and machining parts while I wait on grizzly's backorder.

download info sent to your paypal gmail address a couple hours ago,
may need to check your spam or bulk folders.
Hoss

[tmbg]

download info sent to your paypal gmail address a couple hours ago,
may need to check your spam or bulk folders.
Hoss

You're right, it slipped through the cracks; I found it. Thanks!

[photomankc]

Speed is time so the faster it can push through the cuts the less time you spend watching it do stuff which, I imagine, gets old after the intial WOW of seeing it move on it's own wears off. Fast rapids are nice and all and with an 18" table I would like it faster than slower but most of the time is in the cut and as long as the motors can cut to edge of what the machine allows then you are doing well. I think I'll be quite happy if I can get 20IPM to start with (cutting that is). It would make a lot of work I do go from an all-day task to something I could finish in a couple hours.

I can tell it wont make me a machinist though. In fact, I feel quite dumb right now trying to wrap my head around CAM.

[mrcodewiz]

I have never used the Geckos before - looking at the manual, it says you need a heatsink if you go over 3A. Is that something you have to get separately?

[hoss2006]

a lot of people bolt them to an aluminum plate with a fan blowing across.
Hoss

[photomankc]

I got by with a 7" angle grinder and cut-off wheel for cutting stock to VERY ROUGH dimensions. I now have a Horror Freight 14" chop saw ($90) and that helps make it less of a white-knuckle experience and lets me make a much closer cut, but the grinder worked for everything I needed to do below 1.5" thick and cost all of $30. I'll likely never have a bandsaw but I just try to chose stock that is the correct thickness and width and then cut the chucks off I need over time I have developed enough scrap cut-offs that I rarely need to buy new stuff. I have a couple places here locally that will cut metal to small lengths and sell it that way. Saves me a lot of time and shipping costs. Might look around and see if there is something similar out there in your area.

[mrcodewiz]

In my opinion, this was probably one of the most important purchases I have made throughout the entire lifetime of my hobby. It has paid for it's $179 over and over again.

[diyengineer]

In my opinion, this was probably one of the most important purchases I have made throughout the entire lifetime of my hobby. It has paid for it's $179 over and over again.

Will that cut steel by chance?

[LeeWay]

I wore out an older green HF bandsaw already. I am working on wearing out one of the newer red ones like in the picture. I have had to tweak it and replace a couple bearings as well as address the lower wheel shifting on the shaft, but now it's a fine little bandsaw.
20% discount coupon works great at check out too.

Oh yeah. It cuts steel. Even hard stuff as well as stainless. I usually buy Starrett blades for this from Mcmaster Carr at about $20 each.

[mrcodewiz]

I wore out an older green HF bandsaw already. I am working on wearing out one of the newer red ones like in the picture. I have had to tweak it and replace a couple bearings as well as address the lower wheel shifting on the shaft, but now it's a fine little bandsaw.
20% discount coupon works great at check out too.

Oh yeah. It cuts steel. Even hard stuff as well as stainless. I usually buy Starrett blades for this from Mcmaster Carr at about $20 each.

I have had a green one for probably 5 or 6 years. I have gone through many blades - I now just buy the bi-metal ones at my local harbor freight. They work fine. The only maintenance I have had to do other than that was replace 4 of the guide bearings.

[diyengineer]

Nice! I may have to add one to the shop!

I wore out an older green HF bandsaw already. I am working on wearing out one of the newer red ones like in the picture. I have had to tweak it and replace a couple bearings as well as address the lower wheel shifting on the shaft, but now it's a fine little bandsaw.
20% discount coupon works great at check out too.

Oh yeah. It cuts steel. Even hard stuff as well as stainless. I usually buy Starrett blades for this from Mcmaster Carr at about $20 each.

[tmbg]

Nice! I may have to add one to the shop!

yeah, it's definitely worth it. I have one of the little 4x6" bandsaws that harbor freight currently sells for around $230, and last week I cut some 3" round bar 304 stainless, not a problem.


I did try to cut some linear rail with it, and it didn't seem to want to even make a mark in it.