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  1. #41
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    would this power supply be a good one?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MeanWell-48V...3%3A1|294%3A50

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    522
    Quote Originally Posted by 725franky View Post
    would this power supply be a good one?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MeanWell-48V...3%3A1|294%3A50
    Well, it's on the small side, but why go for the 5A when 7.3A is cheaper?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/48V-DC-7-3A-350-...3%3A1|294%3A50

    Note FREE shipping, vs $13 in the one you listed. The vendor runs lots of these so you can probably get it for $60 rather than the buy-it-now $70. There are 7 on ebay right now. There's a similar 48v 7.3A on eBay which has a perforated case with no fan. I'd prefer the fan-cooled myself.

    I do have the 7.3A supply from this guy. I see no problems with it. I didn't try to load-test it or anything, it runs ok so far, didn't smoke, haven't made it hot enough to even turn on the fan (I hate unswitched always-on fans, they're noisy). Not much else to say.

    IIRC Gecko said to add up motor currents and multiply by 0.67 to guesstimate the power supply requirement. I'm familiar with what's going on in a stepper driver and have to say that sounds quite oversimplified compared to the all the complicating factors in reality (higher voltage should reduce the current needs actually) but whatever, if Gecko finds this a practical guideline then I'd go with that. 2.8A * 3 * 0.67 = 5.628A so your 5A supply is a bit too small even for 3-axis. 7.3A is just about enough for even a 4-axis. Just a bit under, but I think it's certainly ballpark, especially considering how vague the requirement is in reality.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    Quote Originally Posted by 725franky View Post
    Fixittt,
    That is very encouraging to hear. I am definitely looking forward to having my mill operating much better / smoother.


    CR, the wire that you linked to was 1 pair wire but my stepper motors are 4 wire. I did see that that same seller had some stepper wire (4 wires) that was 22AWG. Is that what I'd need?
    Sorry. I guess he is out of the 2 pair 18 gauge wire. For the 3.5A G540, or for home/limits, the 22 gauge wire is fine. This might be a little small for any 6A motors though.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Stepper-Motor-Wi...742.m153.l1262

    Go with the 7.3A PSU. Also available from Keling, KL-350-48 48V/7.3A $60.

    http://kelinginc.net/SwitchingPowerSupply.html

    CR.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    I know the other wire you recomended was shielded and this isn't but would this wire be good for the stepper? http://cgi.ebay.com/CNC-Stepper-Moto...3%3A1|294%3A50
    Or do I need to (or should) get shielded wire?

    Thanks,

    Frank

    PS:

    It was too late for me to get the keling PSU because I had already bid on the ebay one...and I won it.

    48V DC 7.3A 350.4W Regulated Switching Power Supply $59.99 Shipped

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    Quote Originally Posted by 725franky View Post
    I know the other wire you recomended was shielded and this isn't but would this wire be good for the stepper? http://cgi.ebay.com/CNC-Stepper-Moto...3%3A1|294%3A50
    Or do I need to (or should) get shielded wire?

    Thanks,

    Frank

    PS:

    It was too late for me to get the keling PSU because I had already bid on the ebay one...and I won it.

    48V DC 7.3A 350.4W Regulated Switching Power Supply $59.99 Shipped
    You COULD get that wire, but you don't NEED 18 gauge for the amps you are dealing with.

    Shielded wire is optional for stepper cables, but is ESSENTIAL for home/limit switch wiring.

    You probably got the same power supply as Keling's. It should be fine.

    CR.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    887
    here is an example of how your going to solder the db 9 and limit resistors.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_3412.jpg  

  7. #47
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    Fixittt, Thanks for the pic. That will be very helpful when I go to assemble everything. I did watch a couple of your videos too; man, your machine is quick! The best I've ever been able to get mine to rapid on ANY axis is 18ipm.


    As far as wire goes I'll probably just get all sheilded (so I can get it from the same seller) and if I ever go to larger motors Ill just upgrade my wire too.


    -Frank

  8. #48
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    Just a useless update:

    I have received my G540, my E-Stop & homing switches and my resistors. Now I'm just waiting on my power supply and wire to show up.



    -Frank

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    Quote Originally Posted by 725franky View Post
    Just a useless update:

    I have received my G540, my E-Stop & homing switches and my resistors. Now I'm just waiting on my power supply and wire to show up.-Frank
    Wire the Estop to the RED terminals.

    Here's how to connect the motors to the wire:

    http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread...=59663&page=19

    CR.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    My wire came in the mail tonight! Now all I'm waiting for is the power supply.

  11. #51
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    I finally have everything I need to put this thing together! ...I think...

    How do I know what color wire from the stepper to hook up to my controller wire? Or does it not matter?

    I soldered my db9 connector like the one someone posted a link to.

    Here is the pic I used to solder up my DB9 connector:

    http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/5852/1000356hg8.jpg ...my colors match those for my new wire but the wires coming from my steppers is different.

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    If your Xylotex 269 steppers have Black, Green, Red, Blue wires, then no matter what color the cable wire is, the "straight thru" wiring from the motor should end up:

    Pin 9=Black
    Pin 8=Green
    Pin7-Red
    Pin6=Blue

    CR.

  13. #53
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    cool. Thanks for the info.

    I'm going to go start soldering right now.

    -Frank

  14. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    Don't forget to pre-position your heat shrink tubing before you solder everything up.

    CR.

  15. #55
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    Gecko recommends you attach (Power OFF of course) and test one motor at a time as you wire them.

    CR.

  16. #56
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    My progress was put on hold after I wired the first motor up.

    ...I don't have a male to male DB25 (LPT1 / parallel) cable.

    I went to Staples & Radio Shack and at both places they looked at me like I had a third eye when i asked for a male to male LPT1 cable. After I said "you know, the old, wide printer cables" they finally kind of understood. And then they basically said no such luck.

    So I ordered one last night off Ebay last night. And it was shipped via USPS today.

    When It gets here I should be able to test the first one & then finish up the rest.

    Is there anything special that I have to change in EMC? Other than the number of micro steps per revolution.


    -Frank

  17. #57
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    Well I believe I followed the directions correctly and have pin 11 wired to pos, pin 12 to neg and pin 10 to estop with estop other wire going to neg.

    All I'm getting is FAULT mode.

    What did I miss?

  18. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    Do you have the parallel cable hooked up and under computer power? Does emc2 provide charge pump signal? If not then you will have to turn off the internal switch. G540 will not come out of fault without charge pump or switch turned off.

    CR.

  19. #59
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    In your computer bios: Do you have the parallel port set to EPP?

    A thread on G540 not coming out of fault:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74625

    CR.

  20. #60
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    I do have my parallel cable; and my bios is set to EPP. I don't know what a chare pump is. Nor do I know how to find if emc has a charge pump signal.

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