would this power supply be a good one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MeanWell-48V...3%3A1|294%3A50
would this power supply be a good one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MeanWell-48V...3%3A1|294%3A50
Well, it's on the small side, but why go for the 5A when 7.3A is cheaper?
http://cgi.ebay.com/48V-DC-7-3A-350-...3%3A1|294%3A50
Note FREE shipping, vs $13 in the one you listed. The vendor runs lots of these so you can probably get it for $60 rather than the buy-it-now $70. There are 7 on ebay right now. There's a similar 48v 7.3A on eBay which has a perforated case with no fan. I'd prefer the fan-cooled myself.
I do have the 7.3A supply from this guy. I see no problems with it. I didn't try to load-test it or anything, it runs ok so far, didn't smoke, haven't made it hot enough to even turn on the fan (I hate unswitched always-on fans, they're noisy). Not much else to say.
IIRC Gecko said to add up motor currents and multiply by 0.67 to guesstimate the power supply requirement. I'm familiar with what's going on in a stepper driver and have to say that sounds quite oversimplified compared to the all the complicating factors in reality (higher voltage should reduce the current needs actually) but whatever, if Gecko finds this a practical guideline then I'd go with that. 2.8A * 3 * 0.67 = 5.628A so your 5A supply is a bit too small even for 3-axis. 7.3A is just about enough for even a 4-axis. Just a bit under, but I think it's certainly ballpark, especially considering how vague the requirement is in reality.
Sorry. I guess he is out of the 2 pair 18 gauge wire. For the 3.5A G540, or for home/limits, the 22 gauge wire is fine. This might be a little small for any 6A motors though.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stepper-Motor-Wi...742.m153.l1262
Go with the 7.3A PSU. Also available from Keling, KL-350-48 48V/7.3A $60.
http://kelinginc.net/SwitchingPowerSupply.html
CR.
I know the other wire you recomended was shielded and this isn't but would this wire be good for the stepper? http://cgi.ebay.com/CNC-Stepper-Moto...3%3A1|294%3A50
Or do I need to (or should) get shielded wire?
Thanks,
Frank
PS:
It was too late for me to get the keling PSU because I had already bid on the ebay one...and I won it.
48V DC 7.3A 350.4W Regulated Switching Power Supply $59.99 Shipped
here is an example of how your going to solder the db 9 and limit resistors.
Fixittt, Thanks for the pic. That will be very helpful when I go to assemble everything. I did watch a couple of your videos too; man, your machine is quick! The best I've ever been able to get mine to rapid on ANY axis is 18ipm.
As far as wire goes I'll probably just get all sheilded (so I can get it from the same seller) and if I ever go to larger motors Ill just upgrade my wire too.
-Frank
Just a useless update:
I have received my G540, my E-Stop & homing switches and my resistors. Now I'm just waiting on my power supply and wire to show up.
-Frank
Wire the Estop to the RED terminals.
Here's how to connect the motors to the wire:
http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread...=59663&page=19
CR.
My wire came in the mail tonight! Now all I'm waiting for is the power supply.
I finally have everything I need to put this thing together! ...I think...
How do I know what color wire from the stepper to hook up to my controller wire? Or does it not matter?
I soldered my db9 connector like the one someone posted a link to.
Here is the pic I used to solder up my DB9 connector:
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/5852/1000356hg8.jpg ...my colors match those for my new wire but the wires coming from my steppers is different.
If your Xylotex 269 steppers have Black, Green, Red, Blue wires, then no matter what color the cable wire is, the "straight thru" wiring from the motor should end up:
Pin 9=Black
Pin 8=Green
Pin7-Red
Pin6=Blue
CR.
cool. Thanks for the info.
I'm going to go start soldering right now.
-Frank
Don't forget to pre-position your heat shrink tubing before you solder everything up.
CR.
Gecko recommends you attach (Power OFF of course) and test one motor at a time as you wire them.
CR.
My progress was put on hold after I wired the first motor up.
...I don't have a male to male DB25 (LPT1 / parallel) cable.
I went to Staples & Radio Shack and at both places they looked at me like I had a third eye when i asked for a male to male LPT1 cable. After I said "you know, the old, wide printer cables" they finally kind of understood. And then they basically said no such luck.
So I ordered one last night off Ebay last night. And it was shipped via USPS today.
When It gets here I should be able to test the first one & then finish up the rest.
Is there anything special that I have to change in EMC? Other than the number of micro steps per revolution.
-Frank
Well I believe I followed the directions correctly and have pin 11 wired to pos, pin 12 to neg and pin 10 to estop with estop other wire going to neg.
All I'm getting is FAULT mode.
What did I miss?
Do you have the parallel cable hooked up and under computer power? Does emc2 provide charge pump signal? If not then you will have to turn off the internal switch. G540 will not come out of fault without charge pump or switch turned off.
CR.
In your computer bios: Do you have the parallel port set to EPP?
A thread on G540 not coming out of fault:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74625
CR.
I do have my parallel cable; and my bios is set to EPP. I don't know what a chare pump is. Nor do I know how to find if emc has a charge pump signal.