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  1. #441
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    388
    The photo dedeer posted is a TBR20 support block, rather than the usual SBR20. The TBR's wider buttresses should help prevent the bearing shell from opening up under tensile loads. Do they work? I don't know, but I'm planning to test the stiffness of some TBR and SBR blocks to see. My guess is it'll only be a modest improvement, since the bearing shells are the same and only have 1 off-center ball-track for tension.
    David Malicky

  2. #442
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    12
    It would be great if you could make a comparison .

  3. #443
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    999
    Some more decorative stuff that I did for our home:

    Fractal V-carve, pattern made with Ultrafractal 5, cut in 1" thick pine (or maybe fir), stained and surface sanded.


    "Big Wave" using some homebrew g-code generating software. Made from a 3.5" thick block of alternating redwood and fir strips (actually studs).


    And some mazes, also using specially written software:

    Single side:


    Cylindrical:


    Double sided:
    Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET

  4. #444
    Outstanding!

  5. #445
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    392
    Very impressive work.

  6. #446
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    388
    Wow-sweet!
    David Malicky

  7. #447
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    102
    You have some really impressive projects. I barely have time to process a file in cambam, let alone generate custom gcode software.

    I'm just not sure how your going to use that cutting board you made, Really nice redwood and fir, just not as flat as I've seen them made by others.

    -C

  8. #448
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    999
    Quote Originally Posted by Miata2k View Post
    ......I'm just not sure how your going to use that cutting board you made, Really nice redwood and fir, just not as flat as I've seen them made by others. .....
    Well, the wave is to accommodate serrated knives

    Or maybe not. This is actually some wall art for the bathroom remodeling project:
    Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET

  9. #449
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    43
    Hi Jerry
    Jyst a small deviation.
    I noticed you started with aShark plus etc. etc.
    How much info do you have on the motors and screws?
    I have blown 2 of my my motors through that skinny wiring actually burning inside thecshielded cable.
    Getting specs out of NWA is like pulling teeth on a chook.
    Their secrets are guarded better than the crown jewels of England
    Cheers
    Wolffie

  10. #450
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    999
    Oh yes...I had that Shark Pro Plus quite a while ago. I never had trouble with the motors but I know they were just regular 270 in-oz steppers that you can get anywhere (not sure what current and inductance ratings were). The screws looked like the Hi-Lead screws you can buy from Roton.

    Did you ask around on the Shark Forum? Back then they had always good advice.
    Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET

  11. #451
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    93
    Quote Originally Posted by JerryBurks View Post
    And some mazes, also using specially written software:
    Would you be willing to share/sell the maze app? Looks like you used a Ball router bit, and only two entry/exit (up/down) points. Ingenious I think. Nice clean look.

  12. #452
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    999
    Quote Originally Posted by ecurb5 View Post
    Would you be willing to share/sell the maze app? Looks like you used a Ball router bit, and only two entry/exit (up/down) points. Ingenious I think. Nice clean look.
    That was my plan, kind of. I just need to muster the energy to do the user interface. Making the software do something practical is fun but programming text boxes and file dialogs and writing a manual is a drag and usually takes me a while. I will come back and post a link when I get this done. In the current condition I can not distribute this. It is really experimental and I need to recompile the code every time I change a parameter.

    This is indeed done with a ball end plunge bit. Magnate makes them with a slim 1/4" shank.
    Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET

  13. #453
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    93
    Sweet!

  14. #454
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by JerryBurks View Post
    Oh yes...I had that Shark Pro Plus quite a while ago. I never had trouble with the motors but I know they were just regular 270 in-oz steppers that you can get anywhere (not sure what current and inductance ratings were). The screws looked like the Hi-Lead screws you can buy from Roton.

    Did you ask around on the Shark Forum? Back then they had always good advice.
    These days you are not allowed to ask too many questions about the Shark. You are only allowed 'Positive" posts.
    I blew up the motors when the wires inside the cable shorted.
    Cheers

  15. #455
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    999
    No progress publishing generally usable maze software yet....but I machined 2 more mazes with the existing software as show pieces. I will try to find local craft and high-end toy shops and see if they may be interested in selling such stuff (at the right price of course).

    Single side captive ball maze, 16" x 16" in Zebra Wood:


    Double side maze 18" x 7" in Mahogany (one side shown only):
    Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET

  16. #456
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    999
    Since I started working with CNC machines some 4 years ago I purchased various bits, sometimes in bulk for smaller sizes that I like to use. I made a tray with holes to hold them but that was soon overflowing and I ended up with router bits everywhere, not knowing what was still there and sometime buying stuff again that I still had in a drawer somewhere.

    So, today I made a high density bit organizer that can hold all the bits that I have. Theoretically up to 400 but practically maybe half of that. I still have to mark the ones that are in use right now (or vice versa the ones that are just inventory), maybe with a piece of tape. I think it will do the job. The moving "ammo clips" allow presenting the type of bit I need.





    Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET

  17. #457
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    118
    That is a great idea and nice design Jerry. Thanks for sharing.

    Chuck

  18. #458
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    999
    I needed urgently a simple go / no-go gage for the company I work for and though I just make it out of brass (see below) It came out quite nice and I am impressed myself that I got the openings to an accuracy of 1.4/1000". After hogging out the slot I ran the final toolpath another 2 times at full depth. The first time you could still hear some material being removed but the second time the bit barely touched. Not bad for a bamboo router.

    Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET

  19. #459
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    999
    Another decorative/utility piece....

    This is a small bowl/plate (about 8"x12") made from a 1 1/4" quarter sawn Mulberry slab. It is nicely figured, going from bark to sapwood and heartwood and it shows an interesting ray pattern. Since the remaining shell is only about 0.2" thick, the work holding was a bit of a challenge. Got to improve that for future such projects.







    Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET

  20. #460
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    Impressive work on that bowl. Like a wooden potato chip. Forgive me if you've covered this, but I skimmed the entire thread and didn't see it. Yeah, it took a few hours... Anyway, how many sheets of bamboo ply did your machine take to build?

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