[photomankc]

Another that is very grateful for the info provided here on THIS mill. I am presently sitting in front of my new controller PC watching EMC move the cursor around and watching that become little pulses dancing on my oscilloscope and about to connect it up to my drivers and motors. Giddy is the word I would use and I'm at this point largely due to the work Hoss is sharing on here.

That sure went south in a hurry and I was wondering why... didn't know the history there. I'm in that camp that is not interested in what a $5-15K mill is doing with uber-expensive controllers, drives, and motors. I'm interested in what my $1.2K mill can do with some time invested and a resonable level of expense and I hope that's where this thread remains.

[hoss2006]

Another that is very grateful for the info provided here on THIS mill. I am presently sitting in front of my new controller PC watching EMC move the cursor around and watching that become little pulses dancing on my oscilloscope and about to connect it up to my drivers and motors. Giddy is the word I would use and I'm at this point largely due to the work Hoss is sharing on here.

That sure went south in a hurry and I was wondering why... didn't know the history there. I'm in that camp that is not interested in what a $5-15K mill is doing with uber-expensive controllers, drives, and motors. I'm interested in what my $1.2K mill can do with some time invested and a resonable level of expense and I hope that's where this thread remains.

Look forward to your results using EMC, I have been wanting to get into using it as well.
I'm getting tired of Windows these days.
Hoss

[photomankc]

Look forward to your results using EMC, I have been wanting to get into using it as well.
I'm getting tired of Windows these days.
Hoss

It's a little more PC picky than Mach. As I understand it Mach is pretty dependent on just the raw speed of the PC. EMC wants to load a real-time layer that sensitive to the hardware. This PC is going to be fairly marginal. After some reading it seems there is a lot going against it. Built in video only, shared RAM, newer Intel chipset. My jitter is pretty high and above 70IPM you can hear the inconsitancy in the motor. Does alright up to about 65IPM.

I really like the cleaner interface. Mach is a distracting mess to me. EMC seems very straight-forward viewing it.

I'll probably keep an eye out for a surplus system out there that is on the working hardware list in the wiki. You can run quite well on much older hardware with the realtime kernel as long as the motherboard and devices don't hose you up.

Typical Linux stuff though, scattered documentation, some GUI, some text files, some command line stuff and lots of outdated info floating around. I like it though.

[zerodegreec]

Can I ask a question to the fellow BF20 or similar owners? Hoss what kind of results do you get with side milling? when I use any size 2 flute end mill on Alum or brass or mild steel I get wavey results... Is this a limitation to the machine? or can you recomend some things to try to get rid of this?

Fly cutting gives me good results.

Thanks to eveyone that posts the great free info on this forum to get guys like me just starting out with my first mill making chips and generally pretending to make quality parts... (its more fun than I was expecting to be honest )

[hoss2006]

Can I ask a question to the fellow BF20 or similar owners? Hoss what kind of results do you get with side milling? when I use any size 2 flute end mill on Alum or brass or mild steel I get wavey results... Is this a limitation to the machine? or can you recomend some things to try to get rid of this?

Fly cutting gives me good results.

Thanks to eveyone that posts the great free info on this forum to get guys like me just starting out with my first mill making chips and generally pretending to make quality parts... (its more fun than I was expecting to be honest )

I haven't had the mill in one piece for very long since I got it, always working on this and that for the projects.
I generally use 4 flute endmills for most everything, basically doubles your spindle rpm vs a 2 flute.
Keep 2 flutes around for deep slotting for chip evacuation, others use them for roughing.
Therefore the 2 flute will need a higher rpm or slower feed rate to get a nice finish in comparison.
Climb milling will help too.
Hoss

[didado]

Can I ask a question to the fellow BF20 or similar owners? Hoss what kind of results do you get with side milling? when I use any size 2 flute end mill on Alum or brass or mild steel I get wavey results... Is this a limitation to the machine? or can you recomend some things to try to get rid of this?

I have both the BF30 (not the Optimum BF30 but Weis-like BF-30) and the BF20. I've had the BF20 since 2005. (they've been around here in Europe for quite some time) The results you're talking about are normal.

Like Hoss said use a four flute for side millling. Generally I take the side cut and then leave the settings as is and reverse ( not the spindle) the cut so it does a finishing climb milling cut. You'll notice that the cutter has deflected during your first cut because it takes off another couple of hundreds of mm when you move the bed back. Even if you run the cutter back and forth several times side cutting with the same setting it keeps cutting a tiny bit because of deflection. This is not necessarily the result of the machine but for a large part caused by the deflection of the cutter itself. The result is often much better. I also use this trick when I really need accurate dimensions and I'm off some hundreds of mm. Generally, I also use the biggest diameter cutter that fits in my machine for sidecutting. The bigger the cutter, the more rigid it is.

On Aluminum you want flood or at least a generous amount of WD40 to get a relative smooth side cutting finish. Aluminum is sticky and tends to stick to the flutes and get in the way while cutting, resulting in a poor finish. Blowing the chips with air is also a great help. Don't however, expect the finish you get with flycutting. It's going to be somewhat wavy. Just except it to a degree.

David

[hoss2006]

I have both the BF30 (not the Optimum BF30 but Weis-like BF-30) and the BF20. I've had the BF20 since 2005. (they've been around here in Europe for quite some time) The results you're talking about are normal.

Like Hoss said use a four flute for side millling. Generally I take the side cut and then leave the settings as is and reverse ( not the spindle) the cut so it does a finishing climb milling cut. You'll notice that the cutter has deflected during your first cut because it takes off another couple of hundreds of mm when you move the bed back. Even if you run the cutter back and forth several times side cutting with the same setting it keeps cutting a tiny bit because of deflection. This is not necessarily the result of the machine but for a large part caused by the deflection of the cutter itself. The result is often much better. I also use this trick when I really need accurate dimensions and I'm off some hundreds of mm. Generally, I also use the biggest diameter cutter that fits in my machine for sidecutting. The bigger the cutter, the more rigid it is.

On Aluminum you want flood or at least a generous amount of WD40 to get a relative smooth side cutting finish. Aluminum is sticky and tends to stick to the flutes and get in the way while cutting, resulting in a poor finish. Blowing the chips with air is also a great help. Don't however, expect the finish you get with flycutting. It's going to be somewhat wavy. Just except it to a degree.

David

Excellent advice, thanks for sharing.
Hoss

[diyengineer]

Looking goood!!

[Mad Welder]

Hoss I haven't logged in here in the zone for a bit so I haven't kept up with everyone's updates and news.......and I'm real sorry to read of your families loss

[john_t_h]

I have both the BF30 (not the Optimum BF30 but Weis-like BF-30) and the BF20. I've had the BF20 since 2005. (they've been around here in Europe for quite some time) The results you're talking about are normal.

Like Hoss said use a four flute for side millling. Generally I take the side cut and then leave the settings as is and reverse ( not the spindle) the cut so it does a finishing climb milling cut. You'll notice that the cutter has deflected during your first cut because it takes off another couple of hundreds of mm when you move the bed back. Even if you run the cutter back and forth several times side cutting with the same setting it keeps cutting a tiny bit because of deflection. This is not necessarily the result of the machine but for a large part caused by the deflection of the cutter itself. The result is often much better. I also use this trick when I really need accurate dimensions and I'm off some hundreds of mm. Generally, I also use the biggest diameter cutter that fits in my machine for sidecutting. The bigger the cutter, the more rigid it is.

On Aluminum you want flood or at least a generous amount of WD40 to get a relative smooth side cutting finish. Aluminum is sticky and tends to stick to the flutes and get in the way while cutting, resulting in a poor finish. Blowing the chips with air is also a great help. Don't however, expect the finish you get with flycutting. It's going to be somewhat wavy. Just except it to a degree.

David

Thanks for that. I was thinking my mill sucked, but this clears up exactly what was happening

[hoss2006]

Finally!






Hoss

G0704store

[hoss2006]

I have an EMC2 with Ubuntu live cd in front of me, I've tried it on my laptop just to check it out.
Looks cool, should take it down and try it on the X2, probably be a while before I get a console
built for the G0704 with a good PC.
Played with many versions of Linux years ago but they couldn't even detect my sound cards then,
worked much better this time around.
Definitely be giving it a whirl with the 0704.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

The Phase 2 prints are just about ready, maybe later today.
Phase 1 owners will get the update first.
A couple pics below show the ballnut pocket needed in the saddle, I used my RF45
but it doesn't have to be pretty.
Just have at it with a grinder or use an endmill in a drill press and make a bunch
of plunge cuts to get the stock out of the way.
The dimensions are not critical.
The nut and mount clear the underneath of the table by about 1/8 inch so nothing needs done there.
The Y just needs the casting flash cleaned up.
Hoss

[mrcodewiz]

...
A couple pics below show the ballnut pocket needed in the saddle, I used my RF45
but it doesn't have to be pretty.
Just have at it with a grinder or use an endmill in a drill press and make a bunch
of plunge cuts to get the stock out of the way.
The dimensions are not critical.
...
Hoss

Just in case anyone was wondering. I had to do something similar to mine and I did it on the X2 so if you have one available, it will fit on the table.

[duzallcnc]

Hi Hoss,

Are you using the stock retaining method where the two bolts just put pressure against the ballnut mounting block?

Thanks
Sean

[duzallcnc]

Hi Hoss,

I looked at your dimensions for the X ballscrew mod. I have a G0704 from Grizzly but your measurements would result in interference on my machine. I think the difference may lie in the clearance / height of the space under the table where the X ballnut will reside. My height before milling a pocket for the ballnut is .800 , I am guessing your space may be closer to 1.00
or your Roton nut is smaller than my Thompson which is 1 in sq + the ball return on one side. I compared my measurements to yours and they were the same except that I had the pocket at .260 deep and a small slot to clear the ballscrew. If I remember correctly this gave around .050 clearance between the ballnut and the table. My table has a 3 stamped in the right end. Hope it helps.

Sean

P.S. would you mind to post the Gcode for the oil slots?

Thanks

[Chaps]

This is a great thread, lots of good information. I hope this is not an inappropriate place for this question:

I finally got my G0704, moved my existing configuration from an X2 and am having significant power problems. I plan to change to ballscrews and GeckoDrives later but for now I have the following configuration:

Keiling KL4030 (Max 40v, 3A)
Keiling KL23H2100-50-4B 570oz/in for both X and Y with 15T/30T Pulley ratio
Keiling KL34H280-45-8A 640oz/in Nema 34 for the Z with 15T/30T Pulley ratio

I currently have a 24v power supply but just got a 36v I have yet to try.
Mach 3; 1/2 steps for Z full step for X and Y

The best I can get out of my configuration is 20- 25 IPS before motors stall. With the 36V supply and the stock screws what can I expect to achieve in performance.

Thanks for entertaining my question. Any advice or appropriate links to other threads from this forum will certainly be greatly appreciated.

[hoss2006]

Just in case anyone was wondering. I had to do something similar to mine and I did it on the X2 so if you have one available, it will fit on the table.

Good point.
Probably a lot of us have and X2 to handle some of the work
now that we upgraded to the 0704.
Always nice to have a 2nd machine.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

One more rapid test.
This isn't a baseline test with Mach 3 at the minimum 25000 Hz kernel speed like before.
I ran a cable to a good PC and jumped the kernel speed to 45000 Hz.
With the driver at 1/8 microstepping, 300 IPM came easy with the column still on the table.
Good enough for me.
Here are the electronics used.
570 oz/in Nema 23 Stepper motor, Keling KL6050 driver, 48V.
http://www.g0704.com/G0704_electronics.html
Motor tuning settings - Steps Per 8000, Vel. 300, Accel. 60.
Also shows the motor on the left side of the table as an option.
Hoss

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3639EIzUc6w"]YouTube - G0704 Max Realistic Rapid Speed[/nomedia]

[tmbg]

Hoss,

do your phase2 plans include information on AC bearings for the ballscrews, where to buy them, and prints for bearing blocks and preloading them properly?

If so, how much are the bearings that you're recommending?