[haastec]

They told me the don't sell or loan the jumper part. Did you hear something different or have a part number to order?

32-1010 is the part number, but at $46 I am sure you could manage to make your own. Part Details | HaasParts.com

Same battery (no leads) : McMaster Carr 7821K63 for less than $6. McMaster-Carr

[Kool Parts]

Yep $46 smackers..and they took the money with a smile!
If I knew what I know now..I would just make one, but sometimes you just don't have time to source all of the parts.
Gary

[KewlDan]

Mine is low voltage but still working. Keeping the machine powered on until I get this sorted out.
I plan on replacing the battery like the video but would like to do it with the power off.
On that little white connector for a piggy back battery, does anyone know which of the 4 pins are + and -?
And where I might get a connector like that. Looks like a typical computer power connector?
Thanks,
Dan

[Kool Parts]

No help here as I just bought the one from Haas. But you are right it probably is a typical connector.
I have 2 both have the black wire from the battery in the top hole, the red in the bottom hole. Common sense says the red is positive..common sense..I wouldn't bet a cup of coffee on that though.
Gary

[KewlDan]

Thanks for the reply Gary!
I'm sure it would help a lot of people here (including me) if you could post a pic of it.
Also, is the black lead connected to the - side of the battery and the red to the + side?
Thanks again,
Dan

[csdilligaf]

I bought the Haas kit that has the battery attached to the lead and then got 3 battery from digi key. Use the lead and one of the spare batterys. Now I got this stuff sitting on the shelf. I would pass it along for $35 delivered. If you want the Hass battery and lead and one battery to install let me know.

Chip Smith
csdilligaf at cox dot net

[csdilligaf]

yes the red lead is the POS on the battery, A new battery from Digi key P/N P270-ND in package

[john-100]

duplicated post

[john-100]

Hi

If you can't or don't want to remove the main board for some reason
you can avoid the possible hazards of the Russian roulette method shown in the you tube video

buy or make the plug in battery assembly -
I don't have a HAAS machine but It looks like a 3.5" floppy disc drive power connector will fit the battery connector P1

Attachment 287300

Attachment 287302

with the extra battery maintaining the volatile memory , cut off the old PCB mounted battery leaving enough to solder two wires to
( flush cutting wire cutters will make it easier )

with the mains power switched on I think its too easy to catch the back of the board on one of the mounting posts and damage the board
I'd leave the board in place and work from the top /component side
and replace the original CR2/3 AA battery with a wire ended battery or CR123a battery and holder

(note the CR2/3 AA battery is 14.75 mm dia like an AA battery
but only 2/3 of the AA batteries length - 33mm instead of 50mm and yes a CR1/2AA is 25mm long )

another trap is using a mains powered soldering iron with an earthed bit
you will short circuit your new battery as you touch earthed bit to the positive terminal !

I'm assuming the machines main board has the negative battery terminal connected to ground via the power supply just like the CMOS battery in your PC

Attachment 287304

A battery powered soldering iron or low voltage soldering iron powered by a step down transformer
that makes it safe to disconnect the earth connection would be OK

I'm sure one version of the Weller WTCP51 Magnastat solder station,24V 50W has the bit earthed via a resistor to provide a static discharge path

Attachment 287306

in practice , once a 18 or 25 W soldering iron is hot enough you should be able to unplug it and solder a wire to the remains of the original battery tags
(both if your quick enough)

( if you remove the tags and solder the wires directly to the PCB be careful not to pass too much wire through the board )


John

[Kool Parts]

Good question, the battery is sealed over so it would have to be stripped off to find out. Seems dumb but that might be what is holding the leads on..
Gary

Attachment 287290

[john-100]

Hi Gary

the solder tags are spot welded
the positive tag to the end of the outer case thats covered by the green sleave / lable
the spot welds to the negative terminal can be seen here

Attachment 287292



the spot welds are not as clear in this picture of the positive solder tag -

Attachment 287298


some batteries have wires like this CR1/2AA



john

PS

this is the type of cutter I'd use to cut or break the welds

[csdilligaf]

The ones I bought from DigiKey came with the prongs on it. I got the part number from Haas. They did not sell the battery

[john-100]

Hi csdilligaf

have you fitted the new battery or are you still deciding how to do it ?





john

[KewlDan]

I have not fitted the new battery yet. I purchased all the parts and made the piggyback battery. Just waiting for the plug in socket to arrive from Amazon.

[draganm]

Thanks so much to everyone for contributing to this thread. I've ordered 3 batteries , a socket, and even some socket covers from Digi-Key for $17. , as opposed to the $700. the dealer just quoted me to solder in a new battery. My electronics Engineer will install the socket and make me a battery with Molex lead to act as a temporary back up 3 years from now when the new battery dies.

The problem is, I've already lost all parameters on my 2012 VF2

Is it possible to re-load these as a user and are the files available somewhere
or
Do I need to call the dealer this time and have him load all this for $400.?

I find this whole thing really infuriating. My old TM-1 ran for 12 years without a single issue, this machine now needs a "built in" $700. service call every 3 years?

[haastec]

Thanks so much to everyone for contributing to this thread. I've ordered 3 batteries , a socket, and even some socket covers from Digi-Key for $17. , as opposed to the $700. the dealer just quoted me to solder in a new battery. My electronics Engineer will install the socket and make me a battery with Molex lead to act as a temporary back up 3 years from now when the new battery dies.

The problem is, I've already lost all parameters on my 2012 VF2

Is it possible to re-load these as a user and are the files available somewhere
or
Do I need to call the dealer this time and have him load all this for $400.?

I find this whole thing really infuriating. My old TM-1 ran for 12 years without a single issue, this machine now needs a "built in" $700. service call every 3 years?

You should have a USB stick that came with your mchine that has the parameters as it shipped from the factory. Usually it is in the electrical cabinet.

[draganm]

You should have a USB stick that came with your mchine that has the parameters as it shipped from the factory. Usually it is in the electrical cabinet.

YES, it's there! Little Silver stick in a bag taped to inside of door

:banana:


Anything I should know, or just start up read stick?

[haastec]

YES, it's there! Little Silver stick in a bag taped to inside of door

:banana:


Anything I should know, or just start up read stick?

You will most likely want to load at least parameters and settings files. These will be labeled with .par and .set file extensions.

I would recommend calling your dealer when you go to load your files back in. They can offer additional instructions and because all of your machine options will probably need to be turned back on, you will need the option code for each one; write these down when they give them to you and keep them in a safe spot. Don't forget to have them give you the machine unlock code also, otherwise you will get a message after 200 hrs to call your dealer or you will be locked out of your machine.

Good luck!

[JFettig]

So I just picked up a 2003 VF-4SS and it has error 124, I opened up the cabinet and someone already installed a new battery with leads, so I ordered up a battery holder, desoldered the old battery from the leads while the machine was on, soldered the battery holder in, then installed a Surefire CR123 that reads 3.245V per my Fluke(all batteries in the packages read that within reason), I still have the low battery code. Is there a second battery somewhere? The original battery is probably still on the circuit board. I measured the voltage across the battery holder without a battery and it read ~2.7v - which is probably whats left in the old battery. With the battery in it reads 3.245V as expected.

Any pointers?

[teacherjon]

So I just picked up a 2003 VF-4SS and it has error 124, I opened up the cabinet and someone already installed a new battery with leads, so I ordered up a battery holder, desoldered the old battery from the leads while the machine was on, soldered the battery holder in, then installed a Surefire CR123 that reads 3.245V per my Fluke(all batteries in the packages read that within reason), I still have the low battery code. Is there a second battery somewhere? The original battery is probably still on the circuit board. I measured the voltage across the battery holder without a battery and it read ~2.7v - which is probably whats left in the old battery. With the battery in it reads 3.245V as expected.

Any pointers?

This may be a dumb question...but have you cycled the machine off and then on again after performing the battery holder change service?