[LeeWay]

Ahah.
I lucked up on this PDF that explains what I need.
http://www2.coromant.sandvik.com/cor...1/tech_b_1.pdf

Page B4.

I need a right hand insert if it was positioned where my current parting tool is or the same upside down in my QCTP on top of the carriage.

[Path]

I'm trying one of these ....

ISCAR Cutting Tools - Metal Working Tools - GIM-J-RA/LA


Pat H.

[Ican]

Ahah.
I lucked up on this PDF that explains what I need.
http://www2.coromant.sandvik.com/cor...1/tech_b_1.pdf

Page B4.

I need a right hand insert if it was positioned where my current parting tool is or the same upside down in my QCTP on top of the carriage.

LeeWay, I use this type for part cut off and some grooving. Sorry for the bad Cell Phone images but you can see there are two types of inserts...one with an angle and one that is straight. The angle leaves a perfect cutoff on the part. I got these at Travers if I recall. If you want me to, I can hunt them down for you and send you a URL. Hope this can help. Dan.

[s2jesse]

Ahah.
I lucked up on this PDF that explains what I need.
http://www2.coromant.sandvik.com/cor...1/tech_b_1.pdf

Page B4.

I need a right hand insert if it was positioned where my current parting tool is or the same upside down in my QCTP on top of the carriage.

What a great pdf.. thanks for the post!

[LeeWay]

Thanks, Guys.
This is the tool holder that I will be using.
I was just going to get a straight HSS blade and sharpen it on an angle, but I think just inserts will be cheap enough to see what they will do. Thanks for the input as well.

[dneisler]

Well I now have mine working and turret lined up as best I could do. My one complaint so far is the instructions for assembly suck or I did not get all the paper work. No details about routing oil lines coolant lines or anything. I am just putting where I think is best.


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[LeeWay]

I don't recall seeing a lot of routing info in the manual. Didn't the turret come with it's own manual? Since it is made by someone else, I would expect at least a little copied print out for it similar to that for the collet closer.
Yet another good reason to set the machine up first before installing the enclosure.

[dneisler]

Yeah I got a turret manual and all that went ok. Just some small things that would make a new owner much happier.


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[tmarks11]

Seems so un-tormach-like. Recommend you shoot them an email suggesting improving the turret installation instructions.

[MichaelHenry]

Well I now have mine working and turret lined up as best I could do. My one complaint so far is the instructions for assembly suck or I did not get all the paper work. No details about routing oil lines coolant lines or anything. I am just putting where I think is best.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine didn't come with that sort of instruction either. G-Made CNC did a YouTube video on the coolant lines which might be good to review. I'm about to plumb my coolant so that I can switch flow between the turret and the LocLine tube for the gang or QC tooling with a port for a spray down nozzle, and you might want to give something like that a thought as well.

[MichaelHenry]

Thanks, Guys.
This is the tool holder that I will be using.

<snip>

That looks very similar to the SGTHR19-4X parting/grooving toolholder that Tormach sells. Have you tried one of those yet? I'm wondering if the extra cost for name brand tooling is worth the premium, compared to Tormach's offerings.

[LeeWay]

I don't know if it is worth the extra or not.
My main parting, grooving and turning tool is from Shars and I like it. I broke a Dorian holder early on from Ebay, so I immediately put it in the recycle bucket and ordered this one from Mcmaster Carr because I was pissed at myself. I think it was just over $100.00. I did not know it was Dorian, but figured it was USA made. The Tormach one looks like it has a 3/4" x 3/4" bar on it. This one is only 1/2" x 3/4", but really that shouldn't matter too much. It's 1/4" closer to the holder center. I went ahead and ordered some GTR-3 inserts from Amazon. .120" wide and have an 8 degree angle.
I was going to order some Iscar's, but I could not tell how wide they were and they only had a 4 degree angle. This tool will only do the parting. Facing and grooving and turning will still be done by the Shars tool.
It is a little time consuming to pop those burrs off these parts. I hope this will remedy that need.

It does mean that for the first time since I started running production, I will have to reset all my tools. Most are using Turret tool numbers right now and I want to change that as well as dedicate a Master tool.
Then I should be good to go using Fusion 360 with it.

[MichaelHenry]

The Tormach holder uses GTN-4 inserts which are apparently 0.160" wide (or maybe 4.0 mm) which is a little wider than most of my work needs, so I'm thinking about different tooling. Please let us know how the Dorian works out. Someone in a different thread mentioned Pentacut grooving/parting tools so I'll be looking at those as well.

[cbyrd]

I got a grooving / parting tool from shars that uses a gtn-2. It is .087 wide.
It works well. I use it for thread relieve when I am threading gun barrels.

It is a 111R 12-20. 404-0044

[LeeWay]

Thanks, Guys.
The Shars double insert tool that I use is .118" wide, so the .120" will be very close and I should get the same number of parts with it. I will let you guys know how it works out.
I have been rethinking the usage on this though. Some of our parts get drilled, faced and parted only. For those, just the one angled tool should work fine. I'll only need to use the old one where we do some turning and profiling on the part too.
That will save some traveling between the two outside or top and bottom tools.


We cut our 5' bars in half and will now do the same on out 6' bars. I made a little containment ring support for the floppy end that mounts using an old indicator magnetic base on the control cabinet.
I will get a picture of it at some point. The thicker bars didn't flop too much, but the 3/8" ones did. We were cutting the brass ones in thirds, but with this, we can do halves. Bar lengths will be 30" and 36". Not too shabby and keeps everything nice and compact.

[Ican]

Thanks, Guys.
This is the tool holder that I will be using.
I was just going to get a straight HSS blade and sharpen it on an angle, but I think just inserts will be cheap enough to see what they will do. Thanks for the input as well.

You'll like this a lot better. The inserts last a long while...even the less expensive ones and the best thing I think is that the results are nearly always the same because the inserts are the same each time. Dan.

[LeeWay]

The inserts came in today.
Can't tell much by the picture, but they look like they will do the job well.
I will probably set this up this weekend a reorder all the tools so none use the Turret tool numbers. Most of my codes for production parts will still work, with changes only to the tool numbers. Others may need just a bit of tweaking.



Meant to ask. These inserts do not seem to seat completely in the holder. Is that normal?

[Ican]

The inserts came in today.
Can't tell much by the picture, but they look like they will do the job well.
I will probably set this up this weekend a reorder all the tools so none use the Turret tool numbers. Most of my codes for production parts will still work, with changes only to the tool numbers. Others may need just a bit of tweaking.



Meant to ask. These inserts do not seem to seat completely in the holder. Is that normal?

LeeWay, From your image, it looks about right. There is a space at the back so you can take a little screwdriver and remove the insert when you are ready. Here is how mine fits.... I hope you like how these work. I think you will. I can't tell you how old this insert is but OLD and it has seen a lot of use. Let me know how you like them. Dan.

Attachment 307450

[LeeWay]

I was still not satisfied with this today while I was redoing the tool tables on my lathe.
I started looking harder at this.
There is a spanner nut on the closer that I have not messed with. It was backed off the bearing about 1/4" or so. Closer to the outer collar.
I thought that did not look right.
First picture is an early one just after installing the closer the first time. That spanner nut is up against the bearing, so the vibrating did back it off the bearing at some point.
I never checked to see how tight it was.

Then I took a closer look at the shoulder bolts. The shoulders are undersized for the holes. Maybe metric? Anyway, the should be 5/16" shoulders that are 1.5" long on the shoulder. 1/4" 20 thread on the nut. The yoke assembly itself is solid, so a pipe cover would not really help anything there.
The bracket on the machine itself is the real loose one. I am not sure that bronze pins alone will fix it. It would be much better if that play was absent. When it does wiggle, that joint wiggles the most. A shimming washer may also be needed. Not real precise machining at the connections. Second picture is how it sits now with the spanner lock up where it should be on the bearing. As for the bearing, it isn't the most spinney one I have seen, but it does spin and I feel no rough spots or noise. There is definitely grease inside. I doubt it is playing a role in the vibration.

I will have to see about ordering a new locking pin as well. Ours is difficult to operate now and because it wasn't seated, allowed the collet to spin out. Not good. I caught it quickly.

I am also wondering about the collet on the outside of the tube? Should that be up against the nut so it cannot come loose? It does not look to be threaded. Just has a set screw.
I'll let you guys know how it progresses.


Oh and the last image is the little support I made for longer rod.
Works pretty well, but I will make some nylon bushing inserts for it.