[Arbo]

no clamps would be good. I didn't end up getting enough of anything to make a box, the prices for the stuff I'd like to use were way up there.

But I picked up some small pieces of wenge, marblewood, bubinga, purpleheart and bolivian rosewood because they were nice looking pieces of wood... maybe I'll do some inlays with them in the future. Not sure, but better to have them than to not have them.

I really wanted a piece of cocobolo as well, but it was extremely expensive. But what a beautiful wood.

[Drools]

well its not so much about the waste in clamping but the waste if I were to make the entire box from the 1"x10" that I had originally purchased. By purching a couple more smaller pieces in the correct width I can maximize the wood and make more boxes.

[CarveOne]

- snip -

Not sure, but better to have them than to not have them.

I really wanted a piece of cocobolo as well, but it was extremely expensive. But what a beautiful wood.

Especially if you have to drive 200 miles round trip to see what you can find on a given day, as I do.

Cocobolo doesn't necessarily need a finish. It can be polished to a sheen due to the natural oils in it and the very dense wood.

[CarveOne]

Here's what it has boiled down to for what is available to me locally.

1. A 1"x12"x48" board yields three top panels with a short rectangular piece that I can make a small table top sign with like the one below. The waste edges are cut on the table saw to get 1-1/2" wide strips that are useable for simple desk nameplates.

2. A 1"x8"x72" board yields four side panels.

3. A 1"x6"x72" board yields two front panels and two rear panels.

4. The third top panel is sometimes used to cut one bottom panel. Ordinarily, I would save the third top panel for the next box. The left over piece is saved for future small projects. I make the second bottom panel from a new piece of 1"x8" when it is needed.

The 1"x12" boards from the local Lowes is already edge glued from three narrower pieces. I have only edge glued one bottom panel so far, and that was to prevent making a trip to town.

I trim all waste pieces into straight sections that will be sliced into paint stir sticks or anything else I find to use them for. The end grain pieces are true scrap and are disposed of.

The three red oak boards total $69.91 plus local tax. They make one piece short of two boxes. Poplar and clear pine would be a little less expensive. Regular knotty pine could be cut into useable pieces to avoid the larger knots with extra effort. 1"x12" poplar is flat sawn one piece. It is too likely to bow for me to use it, unless I were to make two saw cuts and edge glue it back together.

It's hard to beat the good looks of oak, red or white species, and I get it already planed. Not much sanding to do to it. That's why I use it. Pay more, work less. Lazy ol' me....

[CarveOne]

As crude as it looks, this works very well for my needs. Strips of wood, 18 gauge wire nails, and a piece of double faced tape. The long strips never move. They are nailed in place while butted against the shallow shoulder left by the surface planed area. They don't come together in the corner so I can lift the workpiece after cutting it, using a wood chisel as a pry bar.

The outer two shorter strips are positioned for top panels. The other two are moved when mounting side panel or front/rear panel workpieces. They are pushed against the workpiece and nailed in place with 1-1/4" long nails. There is a 1/16" hole for each nail in the wood strips.

The small holes that are made in the spoil board causes no real damage. They will leave small bumps that I just flatten with a wood sanding block with 320 sandpaper glued to it. The holes can be hardened off again with another coat of poly brushed onto the spoil board when the need arrives.

The double faced tape is usually cut to about 1" wide and 2" long and one or two pieces are used to stick the board down to the spoil board if I think it is needed. Using a down spiral cutter doesn't really need the tape. The strips of wood are usually tight enough against the workpiece that lifting is not an issue. I have no problems with the down spiral cutter clogging the profile slots.

[LouF]

There's a link on the left side of this "Official Cornhole Board" website that links to the history of the game. Plans and other info is there.

Thanks C1...

[CarveOne]

-snip-

On a different note: C1 we were able to generate a good model of the Mayaan Calendar in 11.5". Thanks for the help on that.

You're welcome. Thanks for verifying your success. Show us the results when you can.

One of the more confusing parts for me was creating the solid model component correctly. Multiple components for the basket weave models especially. I did it without resorting to watching a video that was doing something unlike what I wanted to do.

[CarveOne]

Thanks C1...

The guy I am making these for came over to look at them today. He was really impressed with how smooth the blondwood plywood is. Now I have to mount them on my big machine and Vcarve the logo about 20-30 thousandths into the front end of it. It will be stained in the Vcarved grooves. After carving and staining he wants to apply a coat of clear epoxy resin over the top surface. After that fully cures, I'll wax it with carnuba wax. It will be so slick that no corn hole bag will hit it and stay on it.

[Drools]

I dug up more old wood that has been kicking around to test my changes on.
I didn't have enough Red Oak for a complete box so I substituted some birch. I'm not sure I like the bevel on the front of the sides, I will have to ask my better half what she thinks
I cannot find a piano hinge in the size called for but Homedepot had the the 3/4" ones in seperates. I did the hinge mounts at the same time I did the mirror pocket. The placement of the hinge makes the lid sit perfectly.
I just glued and screwed it together before I took the pictures and the plugs have yet to be clear coated. I really like the wood look so I'm not sure if I will add the decorations like C1 does.

[Arbo]

Great work!

[harryn]

It looks good to me.

Since you asked, I would be tempted to round off ALL of the sharp corners rather than bevel. That would include the sharp corners of the sides and wood edges.

Just keep in mind, my artistic eye is nearly non existent, so go with your wife's opinion.

[CarveOne]

I think it looks good also. Your dog is casting a skeptical eye on it though. It's probably wondering why it doesn't have the dog bone weave pattern on it.

[TrickyCNC]

wow this thread is moving some lately !

C1 ... if you have any suitable length 'scraps' of oak, you could always glue them up and make end grain chopping boards !

Rich

[CarveOne]

wow this thread is moving some lately !

C1 ... if you have any suitable length 'scraps' of oak, you could always glue them up and make end grain chopping boards !

Rich

Yeah, it has. It's good to see some interest in the P box construction and the 2.5D version of the Mayan Haab calendar though.

Or glue end grain blocks of oak between strips of contrasting color wood. Once laminated the chopping board could be surface planed on the CNC machine. May need an angle grinder mount for the Z axis for the final sanding with a flap wheel. Think it will work?

[LouF]

Drools the box looks good to me..


Lou

[CarveOne]

Two of the Corn Hole boards are being readied for cutting a logo into it. My neighbor wants it stained like I do the P boxes with poly coats on it first. Once he sees how that looks he will epoxy coat over the poly. I don't think it is necessary, and may cause problems due to different shrink rates.

He decided against ordering a couple of decals or having a local vinyl cutting sign shop make two for him as I asked him to. Vinyl cutting cost was to be $70. Decals were around $12 each but the ones we found online were way too big, or too small.

I ran the logo gcode in air this evening and the actual cut time is 40m:52s. This can only be cut on my big machine now that the box assembly is taller than the Z axis clearance height of the smaller machine. Before putting a second coat of poly on it tomorrow I'll shim the box in the corners as needed to get a dial test indicator reading as close as I can over the 21" square area that the logo will be located in.

Photos to be posted when it has been cut and final finish has been applied.

[LouF]

C1 can't wait to see the pictures..

[CarveOne]

Good or bad the photos will come Lou.

I made a mount for a 1" dial caliper this morning that is clamped to the lower router mount and ran the indicator around the ~21" square area of the box. There was a lot of variance due to the plywood and 1/4 construction, but I was able to shim the box to around -0.010" maximum deflection from the reference location. I then applied a second of poly on both boxes and will wait for that to dry before checking it again and proceeding with the logo cut. The logo cuts are expected to be done tomorrow.

I'll start the cut about 0.005" below the top surface and I have it set for 0.050" flat depth for the Vcarving tool path. Hopefully, it will look ok and not be too hard to fill the carved areas smooth enough to not interfere with the bags sliding across the surface.

I'll post a couple of photos of the setup later today.

[CarveOne]

Table setup photos. Crude clamping arrangement, but it will hold the box in place during the shallow Vcarving operations. The dial indicator has a thumb tack glued into the end of the stem that helps the stem glide over any minor surface perturbations without snagging.

The big CNC machine doubles as a storage platform for all sorts of junk. It hasn't been used for anything since I made the fajita trays.

[Drools]

Again I didn't get the scale of the piece you are making. Now I see how large game boards are.
A thumb tack on the end of the dial indicator, very creative!