[kemper45]

Randy,

Looks great. Thanks for posting the many photos and taking the time to provide explanations of what worked and what didn't. I think I had better go back and recheck my parallelogram for proper squareness and tightness. It all fits but I have a feeling it will come undone on the first cut.

I was thinking about the opening needed to get the cncrouterparts cables into the cabinet where the Gecko 540 is located. I figured the location where your opening is was the best option. I then thought about sealing this off to prevent chips getting in there - some sort of plate with semicircular notches at each end to allow the cables to pass through and minimize the opening.

Really like the colour scheme especially the yellow base. Makes me want to come up with something other than battleship grey which I have around here somewhere to use.

Dave

[groswald]

Thanks.

I have a design in mind for a cable-slot cover. Basically two slotted pieces of thin plastic that are mirror images of each other. Slide them together from opposite sides with the cables in the middle and screw them to the side.

I'll take pictures when I get it done.

Randy

[bjesson]

Lol Randy,

I aligned the carriage the same way you did, cut some planks on the saw, squared them up and stuck a few brads in it. Worked perfect and quick. I spent 4 hours the other night doing a full re-alignment on my machine since I replaced the delrin clamps with a full new set of aluminum ones to see if the edge finish would be any better or worse. Havnt cut anything yet though. I did notice I had a small rough spot on one of the x rails and lightly filed it, machine ran much smoother then before. At this rate it may cut diamonds! I wish i could afford the material to test that

billj

[bjesson]

Randy,

I like the Z setup you used, if it works out good I'd like to give it a try, please give us the results when you start running parts!

billj

[voltsandbolts]

That's a good looking mount. How long did it take to cut it out? (Ref: post #12)

[bjesson]

I think I finally found the cause of my racking issue (although I havn't racked in a long time)! one of the spacers was a hair off while the other three were exactly the same causing most of the force to be on the higher spacer, using the 5/16-18 bolts only hid this better. I found a local metal supplier with a Home Depot sized warehouse of all sizes, shapes, and materials a machinist could dream of. I picked up a bunch of 6061 Alum and will be redoing parts #16,#23,#24. #23 and #24 will be combined with the spacers and parts #16 will have and indent machined in them so the squaring of the carriage will be automatic once all bolted together. I will also be moving back to the studs instead of cap head screws in the carriage. As I begin the second bigger CNC I will change the carriage to a one-piece rigid setup.

Billj

[bjesson]

That's a good looking mount. How long did it take to cut it out? (Ref: post #12)

Took 15 minutes per clamp. 2 roughing passes, one final pass.

billj

[groswald]

Success!

I cut my first parts last night. Everything went well in general, although I had some issues with losing steps, and the steppers got really hot, even when not moving. This can be due to a known problem with the location of the motor current-set resistor. I've contacted the manufacturer who has a simple mod that will correct the problem.

Other than that I am very happy with the results. I have a lot to learn about generating CAM files and work-holding, but that will come.

Notes on the pictures:

Photo 1: Aligning the machine. I did not do the epoxy-resin floor. I had suggested using a piece of 3/8" plate glass as a reference surface, but ended up using a 1/2" piece of Corian instead. It came from a kitchen counter top we replaced. It's at least as flat as the epoxy would have been. Alignment was a snap.

Photo 2: Wire management. Clean and simple.

Photos 3 and 4: Cutting a wing rib from 1/8" balsa. Those large slots are 1/2" x 1/2". They are accurate to better than .001" as measured by caliper. Not too shabby! You can see the lost steps (or something) in the forward lightening hole where the second pass of the pocket was not cut.

Note the router mounts. I bought these from Bill Jesson. Very nice!

Still to do:

1. Make the electronics bay doors.
2. Make a cover for the slot that carries the motor wiring into the electronics compartment.
3. Make the cover! The dust is intense.
4. Install t-nuts and threaded inserts for repeatable mounting of the spoilboard. I don't want to be chewing up the base with screws. They will go where the screws are located in the spoilbaord shown in the picture.
5. Add some work-holding fixtures. I am going to install t-tracks on each side of the spoilboard.

General thoughts on the plan

• The plan is excellent as written. There were several cases where I thought, "I can improve that." After thinking about it for a while longer I would decide I was wrong. You will not be disappointed building the machine exactly as Bob designed it.
  
• I noted one error and one omission. The error is that the bearing axle hole in parts 15 and 17 should be 3/8", not 5/16". The omission is that the alignment instructions don't appear to tell you to square the gantry to the right rail.
  
• The plan really doesn't speak to getting cables in and out of the electronics bay. I didn't think to cut the access holes until after the case was together. Mine are not as neat as I would have liked.
  
• I had to shave 1/8" off the top of the right rail angle to get enough clearance for the outer horizontal bearings.

I did make a few changes, and there are a couple of things I would do differently if I were starting over. These all come under the heading of "Personal Preferences".

• I threaded all of the studs full-depth. It was easy enough to do, and added a fair amount of real-estate for the stud-locker to work on.
  
• I added Z axis thrust bearings. I don't think there is any issue with the stepper bearings carrying the axis and router load, but the up-load from plunging into harder materials might cause a problem over time. You lose over an inch of Z axis travel with this mod though.
  
• I made grade-8 studs for the four studs that hold the carriage together, and I used grade-8 nuts and washers to hold it together. I can really torque them down!
  
• I wish I had had the foresight to route the AC cable for the power-supply through the base. It should be kept as far from the DC side of things as possible, and there is certainly room in the base.
  
• Along with putting the AC in the base, I would add a junction box with a switch so that the AC to the power supply can be shut off without having to pull the plug all the time.
  
• As mentioned previously, I would plan and cut all of the wire/cable access holes before putting the case together.

I think that's it. I'll post additional photo's as I complete the last bits. It has been a fun build and wonderful learning experience. Thanks to Bob for an excellent plan and to all of you who have provided support and guidance.

Regards,

Randy

[bjesson]

Thanks for the shout out Randy! I am glad the clamps worked out for you. Just out of curiousity, did they bolt on without needing any further mods or did you need to use any spacers? I am using the same clamps I sent you and they fit my machine perfect. Pretty soon these build threads will turn into usage threads, seems all the main posters here are finishing up.

Congrats Randy!

billj

[safaridog]

Success!

I cut my first parts last night. Everything went well in general, although I had some issues with losing steps, and the steppers got really hot, even when not moving. This can be due to a known problem with the location of the motor current-set resistor. I've contacted the manufacturer who has a simple mod that will correct the problem.

Could you elaborate a bit more on the simple mod? I believe your using the stepper kit from cncrouterparts, correct?

[bjesson]

One other thing that can cause some heat on those motors is current setting. Double check this although adding a resistor will disipate some of the current for you.

billj

[kemper45]

Randy,

Great summation of your build and the afterthoughts. I am with you on the holes and chases for the cncrouterparts motor cables. Just finished doing mine with the router. Let's put it this way - I would die to have mine looking as good as yours. Will post some pics on my build thread and you will see what I mean. Oh well, live and learn.

Looking forward to hearing more cutting stories. Based on your first cuts it looks like I will have to follow up with Ahren at cncrouterparts for the cable add on to keep the steppers' temps down. Trust he is good on his word to send the parts out - I have no reason to think otherwise.

Dave

[groswald]

Bill,

You're welcome. The clamps are great. I didn't add any spacers, but I did shave a bit off the plastic fins on top of the router so they will fit easily under the nut block. Spacers would probably have been easier.

SafariDog,

I ordered the Gecko G540 kit from CNCrouterParts. The G540 requires a motor-specific resistor to be installed on each motor cable. Gecko would like them at the G540 end. CNCRouterParts puts them at the far end of the cable. This is usually not an issue, but can cause excess heat or erratic behavior. Ahren, who runs CNCRouterParts sends out a short extension cable with the resistor in the right place for anyone who purchased their electronics from him and needs them.

Dave,

Thanks! Don't worry about looks though. The only really important bit is to make sure you can line it up accurately. I'm looking forward to further updates on your machine.

Regards,

Randy

[bjesson]

Randy,

Great summation of your build and the afterthoughts. I am with you on the holes and chases for the cncrouterparts motor cables. Just finished doing mine with the router. Let's put it this way - I would die to have mine looking as good as yours. Will post some pics on my build thread and you will see what I mean. Oh well, live and learn.

Looking forward to hearing more cutting stories. Based on your first cuts it looks like I will have to follow up with Ahren at cncrouterparts for the cable add on to keep the steppers' temps down. Trust he is good on his word to send the parts out - I have no reason to think otherwise.

Dave

Why use slots when you can drill a hole and even get a rubber grommet to fit the hole and wires? This machine is messy you dont want too many or too big an opening to the electronice cavity. Just a suggestion

billj

[kemper45]

Bill

Randy and I have are using the 3 axis kit from cncrouterparts. The kit includes premade motor cables with DB9 connectors and resistors already in place. Therefore we need to make an opening large enough to pass the connector through and not just a cable. We have notes in these posts that we are planning to cover the openings once everything is done. As you say we don't want them left open to allow dust into the cavity.

Dave

[groswald]

Yup, like he said. The CNCRouterParts cables have really nice over-molded vinyl covers. No getting the connectors off without destroying the cable.

I have an idea for what should be a rather elegant cover. I should get to it this weekend.

Randy

[bjesson]

Bill

Randy and I have are using the 3 axis kit from cncrouterparts. The kit includes premade motor cables with DB9 connectors and resistors already in place. Therefore we need to make an opening large enough to pass the connector through and not just a cable. We have notes in these posts that we are planning to cover the openings once everything is done. As you say we don't want them left open to allow dust into the cavity.

Dave

Makes sense, so many posts on so many different motor kits in this Forum not sure what everyone is using anymore. here's an idea for you cool DB9 Gecko guys:

Panel mount DB9 connector so the cables on the business side of the machine plug in, the hole is covered with the panel mount connector, and the internal wiring to the driver is soldered to the mounted connector then connector to the driver. Will require you to custom make the internal cable but thats a walk in the park since your building the entire machine already

Billj

[groswald]

Bill,

That's not a bad idea. The "fix" for my overheating steppers are a set of short extension cables with the resistor on the G540 end that would serve the purpose well. I'll have to take a look at that when the get here.

I have verified that the current-set resistors are the cause of my overheating. The resistors are in the motor pigtails, not in the cables. My Y stepper (the one in the electronics bay) plugs directly into the Gecko and remains cool. The two connected by the long cables fry.

Randy

[kemper45]

Randy,

Just curious and partly in preparation for my machine - what did you need to do with cncrouterparts to get the add-on cable with resistor for the Gecko 540?

Thanks, Dave

[groswald]

Dave,

I just used the "Contact Us" email button on CNCRouterParts web site and described the symptoms I was seeing. That was yesterday about noon. I got an email back this morning saying the the bits to fix the problem are in the mail. You couldn't ask for better service!

Do make sure you have the problem. Apparently, most do not. Plug one servo directly into the Gecko. Plug the other two in using the motor cables. Power it up and let it sit for 30 minutes.

If you have the problem the stepper plugged straight into the G540 will be warm. The other two will be too hot to touch.

Randy