[Gabe Newell]

The probe/tool offset setter is super valuable to me and i had to get the IPS in order to use the probe. Other than that I never use IPS.

I bought the hard drive and extra memory and never use them (even huge files run off the USB) even though I do a lot of 3d contours.

I didnt get HSM and it was a mistake. HSM isn't really the correct name for the feature. Anything that isn't a long straight line goes faster with HSM and the surface finish is better. My impression is that if HSM isnt' on that the control doesnt do any look ahead, which results in a lot of stuttering in movements.

I have BT, order all my tooling online, and dont regret the choice. I have the umbrella but would be happier with the side mount if I could go back in time. Rigid tapping is a must as is setting spindle orientation to make rigid tapping repeatable.

I use Solidworks for CAD and HSMWorks for CAM. Solidworks is well known, so I don't have much to add. HSMWorks is awesome, both as software and in terms of the support.

The memory/hard drive/USB is straight-forward. If you want to edit a program, it has to fit in RAM. I always edit on the system that has my CAM software (the Windows based NC editors are a gazillion times better than trying to edit on your Haas), but I almost never edit the output of HSMWorks because it is already doing what I want it to do. I run my programs directly off of a USB drive which costs about 1,000 times less than buying storage from Haas (16 GB USB drive is $18 USD, VF-2 750 MB option is $1,595 USD, so Haas is actually 1,777 times as expensive now).

I think i should have gone with a faster spindle and through spindle coolant, but those are the kind of features that might have hidden negatives so you dont want to listen to my wishful thinking on those unless someone who has them says they are straight-forward improvements.

Overall have I been happy with my purchase of a Haas? Absolutely.

As far as tooling, i have been moving almost exclusively to shrink fit. I can't remember the last time I used an end mill holder. I buy solid carbide cutting tools from Lakeshore Carbide with either Altin (for steel) or ZrN (for aluminum) coatings, and will occasionally buy brand name tools that cost 3X as much that last 1/2 as long just to remind myself what it feels like to waste money.

Hopefully this is helpful.

[SDS510]

Thanks Gabe this makes it alot clearer.

The shrinkfit holders are attractive but the price of the fitting tool is exteremely high. Is there a cost effective solution to this that I haven't found?

[Gabe Newell]

Thanks Gabe this makes it alot clearer.

The shrinkfit holders are attractive but the price of the fitting tool is exteremely high. Is there a cost effective solution to this that I haven't found?

The cheap way to do shrink fit is with a propane torch. ymmv

A new Techniks unit is $3,850 USD on e-bay. Used ones show up for ~$1,000 every once in a while. Used holders show up all the time at about 10% of retail. I'd wouldn't buy a used collet chuck, mill chuck, drill chuck, etc... but I've bought a bunch of used shrink fit holders and they've all been good as new (they are bog simple and other than banging up the 40-taper I'm not sure how you could muck one up).

[haastec]

Rigid tapping is a must as is setting spindle orientation to make rigid tapping repeatable.

Spindle orientation is not needed to make rigid tapping repeatable. The machine uses the encoder pulse to mark the starting point.

+1 on the Renishaw system. This is money well spent which you will not regret getting.

[Gabe Newell]

Spindle orientation is not needed to make rigid tapping repeatable. The machine uses the encoder pulse to mark the starting point.

Hmmm. Sorry about promulgating bad info. I had thought that spindle orientation is what preserved, um, spindle orientation across power cycles. I thought I had read somewhere that rigid tapping repeatability depended on that.:nono:

The correct answer from the Haas website is:

"The Spindle Orientation option allows spindle positioning to a specific, programmed angle, using the spindle motor and spindle encoder for feedback. This option provides inexpensive, accurate (0.1 degree) positioning."

[haastec]

Hmmm. Sorry about promulgating bad info. I had thought that spindle orientation is what preserved, um, spindle orientation across power cycles. I thought I had read somewhere that rigid tapping repeatability depended on that.:nono:

The correct answer from the Haas website is:

"The Spindle Orientation option allows spindle positioning to a specific, programmed angle, using the spindle motor and spindle encoder for feedback. This option provides inexpensive, accurate (0.1 degree) positioning."

Gabe,
Not sure if you are disagreeing with me or not, but the "spindle orientation" option does exactly as you have described.

Repeat rigid tapping does not require the "spindle orientation" option to work.

Now if you are talking about starting a thread at a specific programmer defined angle, then yes you would need "spindle orientation".

But to have the ability to go back in to a tapped hole merely requires repeat rigid tap to be turned on through either settings or parameters depending on the machine.

[Gabe Newell]

Gabe,
Not sure if you are disagreeing with me or not, but the "spindle orientation" option does exactly as you have described.

I am not disagreeing with you. I was affirming that you were right and I was wrong.

[SDS510]

Hi Guys,

Any reason why I can't see the last 6 posts until I go post reply ... then if i scroll down I can see the all.

I get an email notification but can't see any of the replys when I log in

EDIT...OK works in linear mode not in hybrid.

[SDS510]

Hi Guys,

Discussion to date has been great and very helpful. This is a summary of where I am at:

1. Ridgid tapping YES
2. Probe system YES
3. Extra memory NO
4. Intuative progamming NO
5. HSM NO ... will try during 200hrs and if it makes a difference for what i am doing I will upgrade and get code.
6. Side mount ATC YES if I can get a good deal.
7. Tooling BT40
8. Programmable coolant nozzle YES (edit)

Next round of questions:

1. Can someone point me in a direction of some information pertaining to tooling, specifically the difference between 2 flut end mills, 4 etc and what applications they apply too.
2. I know this is avery subjective question but what would you guys recommend as a starting out tool list i.e. what size end mills, types etc.

I guess with both these questions I am trying to work out my cutters/tools which will then determine the tool holders I need to purchase.

Gabe ... doesn't using a propane torch to shrink fit harden, soften or make the tool holder go brittle

[Gabe Newell]

Gabe ... doesn't using a propane torch to shrink fit harden, soften or make the tool holder go brittle

The induction heating element in a shrink fit unit and a the flame from a propane torch do exactly the same thing to the tool holder. Heating isn't used to soften or harden the tool holder, it is used to expand the tool holder (since the tool holder and the tool have different rates of expansion).

Should You be using Shrink Fit Tool Holders? | The CNC Report

H13 steel, used in Techniks and Parlec shrink fit holders, should be able to undergo a lot of thermal cycles (as opposed to 8620 used in typical non-shrink fit tool holders).

However, propane torches probably won't work with a HSS tool, as you need to heat the holder a lot faster since HSS is closer in thermal expansion to a typical holder than carbide is. This is why you will see heat shrink units that either work with carbide (cheaper) or carbide and HSS (more expensive, faster).

[SDS510]

The induction heating element in a shrink fit unit and a the flame from a propane torch do exactly the same thing to the tool holder. Heating isn't used to soften or harden the tool holder, it is used to expand the tool holder (since the tool holder and the tool have different rates of expansion).

Thanks Gabe, I understood it wasn't to harden or soften the material but would imagine the process it not dis-similar to that used to harden steel albeit without the quenching.

I would think getting the tool in wouldn't be a problem but removing it should it break would be. I guess given the amount of work I intend doing maybe an alternative to buying would be paying a shop to remove them when required.

I am considering the shrink fit for the finishing tools hence breaking and wear should be minimised anyway.