[MUDSUX]

Ok, Got the pump hooked up and working.

Ground go to the center connection with the lines next to it

the other 2 wires go to U1, and Z2. They also have and extra nut and washers. Does not matter which, Motor is 220v

Thanks! Mine is up and running.

[MUDSUX]

Just a few more detailed pics in case anyone is interested. Some which shows how the DRO is installed. I know I would have liked to see these when I was trying to make my decision to buy one. If anyone else needs something more specific let me know.

Be aware that they installed the X axis DRO in the back which will take up some of your Y travel. Wish I knew this ahead of time. I wonder if I can move it to the front.

[chipslinger69]

Good looking machine. I don't see why the X axis DRO can't be moved to the front. Did the wiring for the DRO come with the shielding or is that something that you added?

[CROSSHATCH]

Great pictures, beautiful machine.

-Jason

[pete from TN]

Hey man that is really looking like a nice machine. DAMN do these machines look nicer in that white/offwhite color if I do say so myself. Much more professional looking than kermit the frog green. I agree with the other fellow tho that I would have put the X scale on the front of the machine because it will limit your travel on the back and could possibly get crushed between the column and table if you are not paying attention. Other than that it looks like a very nice mill and I am really jealous that the damn thing comes equipped with the coolant system... and a table light!!! Sweet deal.... peace

Pete

[MUDSUX]

.....Did the wiring for the DRO come with the shielding or is that something that you added?

It came with the shielding. I haven't done anything with the DRO.

[MUDSUX]

I agree Pete ... a small bushing with a lip would be great for these, the uncentered spinning drawbar is getting on my nerves ........

Haha me too. I just wrap some tape around the drawbar until it just fills the spindle. Now it centers everytime.

[photomankc]

WOW!

That is one impressive looking beast of a machine! Congrats man, I can't think of a whole lot that you'd be left wanting for there beyond an enclosure and some motors where those handle things are

Seriously though. Very nice machine. I would see no reason why you couldn't move the DRO to the front but there would probably be some interference with controls. A lot of folks go with rear mounts for that reason.

[thedave]

Did you try the coolent system yet? I tightened it up, even got some new hose clamps, it still leaks at most connections. I think that is the first to get modded. I am going to replace the hose and several of the fittings. I am going to replace the tank with something I can see through to see the coolent level, and build a lockline head with several nozzles. I will start a new build thread for that.

[MUDSUX]

Did you try the coolent system yet? I tightened it up, even got some new hose clamps, it still leaks at most connections. I think that is the first to get modded. I am going to replace the hose and several of the fittings. I am going to replace the tank with something I can see through to see the coolent level, and build a lockline head with several nozzles. I will start a new build thread for that.

That would be awesome to see. I have not tried the coolant system yet. I am thinking of using some loc lines too.

[thedave]

I'll keep you posted. I noticed that the table drain on mine comes out on the back (same corner), and yours is on the side of the table. was yours moved for the DRO?

[MUDSUX]

I dont think it was moved. There is only one hole tapped. Maybe Matt tapped it in house and not from the factory.

[MUDSUX]

Is it just me or does it kill you guys to get scratches on a new table? Arrrgh. That 6" vise is so heavy. Hard to place it gently and not mar up the table.

[pete from TN]

What I usually do is come at it with the vise at an angle and slide it down the edge of the table until I get it where I kinda want it then tilt it down to meet the table. It is actually easier to do it this way than to try to levitate it over the table and put it down carefully. Don't worry about light scratches on the table it is just part of the scenery.... My machine is over ten years old now and the table looks okay , I have not drilled or milled into it yet but It does not look like a shiny new one anymore, The coolant from under the vise has a tendency to stain the metal on mine and even tho I try to take it off occasionally it still has a greyish brown look after all these years... Peace

Pete

[MUDSUX]

Thanks for the tip Pete. I know it's just a matter if time and I won't be able to keep it new but this thing just looks so nice!

Anyway, all you PM-45M owners out there, what came in that little wooden box you got? I ended up with an extra shell mill arbor with no screw. Well I think it's an extra. Don't remember reading about it being included with the mill. Just wondering if we all got the same thing. And what is the taper on that drill chuck arbor? Thanks in advance.

[thedave]

I got the same pile of parts in the box. I believe the chuck arbor is a B16. The Arbor had .0003 runout, the chuck another .007. I swapped it with the chuck from my Grizzly X2, and it fit. Not sure why they left the shell mill arbor with no screw in the box. See what Matt has to say.

[MUDSUX]

Matt has been non-responsive. I emailed him a few times about different issues and he never responded. Never told me how to wire the coolant pump. That's why I asked here. I'm a little disappointed. I heard he had great customer service. So far I have not seen it. I hope it's just me.

[rwskinner]

That does kind of suck. Sell's you a machine then won't reply to simple questions.

I wonder if someone emails him about a new purchase if he is a little better at responding?

[MUDSUX]

Maybe he's not an internet guy. I don't know. I am so used to doing everything on the net. I emailed him pictures to better clarify my questions. Thought it would help. Maybe a phone call would be better. I thought a picture was worth a thousand words.

[MUDSUX]

I got the same pile of parts in the box. I believe the chuck arbor is a B16. The Arbor had .0003 runout, the chuck another .007. I swapped it with the chuck from my Grizzly X2, and it fit. Not sure why they left the shell mill arbor with no screw in the box. See what Matt has to say.

Thanks! Just found this on the internet.

"a B16 is the same taper per foot as MT 2"

Not sure how true this is. Maybe I'll just get an R8 keyless chuck instead of trying to find an adapter.