I want to bend 13mm OD with 1mm wall thickness aluminum pipe like attached picture.
Because of its small bending radius I have problems. It gets wrinkled or torned.
Is there anyone have experience on bending small tubes? Or any idea on this topic?
I want to bend 13mm OD with 1mm wall thickness aluminum pipe like attached picture.
Because of its small bending radius I have problems. It gets wrinkled or torned.
Is there anyone have experience on bending small tubes? Or any idea on this topic?
I have seen people who bend small tubing fill the tube with sand before bending to keep the problems you mentioned from happening.
It might work for you.
Jerry
Not sure what the radius is..looks like 7 or 8mm.....Not sure if you are trying to manually bend this or if you have a pneumatic/hydraulic bender (similar to what is used in automotive shops to bend exhaust pipe).....I believe the key is to make sure that the tubing you are bending is in a soft state (annealed)....usually the outside bend area is supported and a mandrel is slowly pushed into the bend area....gotta lube the parts to reduce the friction....If manually bending...then the sand method or an awfully large bend radius is required.
I think I remember seeing tubing being bent with what seemed like a tight coiled spring around the bend area. Not sure if this helps.
Dustin B.
================
I hear and I forget.
I see and I remember.
I do and I understand.
After reading Dustin's Post it occurred to me that a coiled spring could also possibly be inserted INSIDE the tubing also for support.
Might be difficult to remove though. Also might work.
Jerry
than you for all suggestions.
Do you have any photo or video about bending pipe with any hand tool?
12 mm - 29 mm Manual bender with video
http://www.vansantent.com/model_3_bender.htm
6 mm - 10 mm Manual bender
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/s...g,brake,bender
Jerry
For that tubing you want a swagelock tubing bender. They are expensive, but worth it. It works well with copper, steel and stainless steel tubing. I doesn't kink tear or crush the tubing. It's a handheld mandrel bender. You would need the 1/2 inch model for 13mm tubing.
http://www.swagelok.com/product.asp?...CTS&GroupDesc=
On all equipment there are 2 levers...
Lever "A", and Lever F'in "B"
What you are trying to do, end up with a smooth entry and exit from the curve on a small radius is very difficult. The usefulness of springs and sand runs out quickly when the radius is tight and aesthetics are important.
I needed a similar bend in smaller dia. copper, which, I'm guessing is easier than al. The problem is that it is really hard to avoid kinks or material build up along the leading edge. I've attached drawings and whatnot for a universal bender of my own design. There are two features to it 1) the former for the outside is linear and follows the pipe around the curve (circular rollers tend to plow up material along the leading edge), and 2) the traveling roller is on a cam so that you can tightly pinch the tube between the two formers.
It has since been built and works fairly well, although it was only designed for up to 3/8 copper. It will bend an inside radius almost to the tube dia. No rep and warranty on the drawings, but I think they are pretty close. There is also a tube straightening mill I did as well. Both look real nice and sit in a drawer with a 10^-8 duty cycle
Mcgyver....well I don't know if you got everything covered.....but, darn that is pretty impressive documentation. Thanks for sharing!
thank you for sharing your knowlage and work
thx & you're welcome. Viper i would have included photo's to, but don't the camera this week!
Better late than never?
I think someone touched on this - your aluminum tubing has to be T-0 or T-1 temper designation if you wish to bend it. Typically, the aluminum you buy is either T-5, T-6 or some variation and will fracture when bent. T-0 is custom ordered stuff - not normally available. T-0 is completely annealed and will bend easily. All aluminum will eventually reach a T-5 condition on it's own - even the T-6 material.
Sorry for being late! Is the party over?
Scott
Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.
is it possible to anneal t5 or t6 aluminum tube easily?
I think one way is heating tube below melting temperature leave it cool slowly.
if this is true method for annealing. how long time should I keep tube hot, what should temperature be? how should I cool it?
Or what is annealing process for aluminum tube?
Look at this site - you'll have some reading to do, but it has very good information:
http://www.unitedaluminum.com/faq.php
Scott
Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.
I have been trying over half a year to bend tight Radi with aluminum, the sand trick is crap the aluminum just cracks on the OD of the bend the springs work kinda IF you stick the spring inside but then you destoy the spring trying to get it out.
I really hope someone can give a more straight forward answer as to what is needed to get aluminum bends in tight radi correctly. Like 180's
many here are more knowledgable than I on the subject, but AL has a bad reputation for cracking from forming, bending etc, some alloys are worse than others. not sure if you can soften it mid bend like copper based alloys or whether bending it hot improves things.
I was at a place last week were they had perfect, very tight 180 bends in copper. Now i know its easy to bend copper, but these were to an inside radius that looked around the tube dia and were flawless. To my query, they said they are filled with lead and kept hot, just below the melting point of the lead. Not sure I want to try that trick at home with lead fumes etc. at a much cooler temp you could use the cerro metal which i've heard works.
I got copper down. But this aluminum is a pain. I can not beleive no one makes atleast a aluminum 90 degree fitting like copper plumber fitting ot a 180 further more. If they do its either over the size I need or threaded and/ or not tight enuff. LOL I would pay someone to make this part hands down. I need something like this REAL BAD.
T-0 temper and mandrel bending - these are required for bending tight radii in Al tubing.
Scott
Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.
right but to bend 5/8" with about 1/4 ID?