Tommy,
Any progress on the gas control console????
Everything has been quiet on here for a while. I've been out of the shop in all my spare time lately helping another local shop with some rebuild work on a Gas/Oil well service rig.
Tommy,
Any progress on the gas control console????
Everything has been quiet on here for a while. I've been out of the shop in all my spare time lately helping another local shop with some rebuild work on a Gas/Oil well service rig.
If it works.....Don't fix it!
I have Monday set aside to wprk on the console. I hope to get the solenoids and relays mounted and the cabinet and back mount painted. I made a turn/change on the tubing, after fit testing the nylon tube on the outside I figured it was to rigid. I purchased some polyurethane tubing in two colors (green and blue) with the right specs. It is seriously flexible. I'll post some pics later.
We are plugging along over here. We had a busy couple of months and now it has leveled out.
Have a great long weekend!
Tommy
Well, I managed to get some things done over the weekend. It has been awhile since working on it and now I am lost as to why I have all these solenoids and gauges and regulators!
WSS
Maybe it will not be much longer before you can put it to work. My shop overall has been pretty slow all summer. I had took on some work outside the shop to fill in the gaps. It now seems to be bouncing back a bit. Hope thr trend continues.
If it works.....Don't fix it!
hey scrambled..
did you ever get the chance getting what parts you used for auto ignitor?
DanOSB-
Sorry about that. Once my pc crashed, I forgot about getting all the information. Now that it is running again, I will get it all together.
Steve
Steve,
No problem just wondering what parts you used for ignitor.. its nice setup (saves fuel) i already have the solenoid setup to turn on and off for all hoses
just manually lighting them up now..
I have started playing around with my torch setup again..
im trying to improve my cutting..
current specs
14.5 ipm
preheat oxygen 3 psi
cut oxygen 35 psi
acentlene (sp) i never can spell that word :P set at 7 psi
preheat at .375
peirce at 1 inch
ramp down to .375 for cutting
using leadin .4 long
hole is .75 diameter
steel is .75 thick
on the top part it is not sharp its very round.. am i going too slow or wrong psi setting or what other variables i need to fix?
the bottom looks very clean and no dross
cutting on a waterbed table
first image is the bottom
second image is top
third image showing the slug
(all other cuts you might see on background was done by plasma (edge start but i would like to be able to peirce and do thicker material..
Cheers
Dan
DanOSB,
I know you've mentioned it, but I cannot remember what torch you are using?
My first thought is the size of the hole, no matter what setting you use, if you can pierce, the area that close to the pierce is too hot. I know you are on a water table, but try to use a pump/hudson sprayer with water and spray right at the cut area after pierce (on top, where the rounded edge is). I do this if I have a thin web that crosses too close to and too quick to another cut. You can try to pick up the speed in just the hole area, There is enough heat to justify a 25% over speed.
WSS
WSS,
I am using victor machine torch (forgot the model...) I can find the numbers if needed..
the numbers on tip is always 1-101-(tip number)
okay ill try speed up the cutting.. and some type of water sprayer..
not sure when ill have chance to try it again..
hopefully soon..
will report back with update..
Found this for Victor acetylene...............
WSS
A 3/4" dia hole in 3/4" plate is pushing the envelope a bit on being to small to get a good cut with ox/fuel.
I agree with Tommy in that you can increase the speed by a pretty good amount because you have the entire area being cut pretty much cherry red.
If your pierce puddle on top of the plate is contained inside the cut quinching some as Tommy says may also help. I have never tried this myself. If that pierce puddle reaches out into the cut path anywhere & you quench it I'd imagine you'll either loose your cut or crater & get a major case of tip popping.
From the looks of the bottom side of the hole in the picture, It's not really round (indication of a partially plugged tip) If everything is right you will most likely still have a bit of rounding/beading on the top edge. The internal walls of the hole should look straight & smooth & the bottom should be near perfect round.
Like I first stated you are on the ragged edge of to small of a hole in 3/4" plate. At least to be able to burn a series of them dependably.
The cut chart should help some. Just keep in mind that's the recomended pressure measured where the hose hooks to the torch barrel & the torch on. Not static pressure at the regulator.
If it works.....Don't fix it!
thanks for all tips and info.. will try work on it again soon and try figure a solution for the torch..
Cheers
Dan
Dan-
My gas supplier --AirGas-- gives away those Victor cut charts. They are a nice size so you don't loose them, plus they are laminated.
Just to let you know.
Steve
Dan-
Here is the grill ignitor that I used. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Electric-I...ci_sku=8587363
I found this one on the Walmart site, but I purchased mine through Lowes.
The only part of the kit I used is the three ignitor wires, and the spark box.
I removed the battery, and created a plastic plug that I could connect 2 wires to. One for the positive, and one for the negative. Then poke a hole into the pushbutton retaining cap that holds the battery in place.
I ran this to a 5 vdc power transformer I already had in the electronics cabinet. Add a relay and you are done.
Instead of using electrode that came with the kit, I just mounted a piece of TIG filler rod to an insulator.
Steve
Dan,
how do you like oxy cutting on a water table? Have you found any oddities? I know it works great with plaz, but how is your preheat time? Do you drop the water level when oxy cutting? Soon I will have my hi/lo ease on thingy done and will be very happy to get away from that 150 second PH on 1" plate, but don't want to start heading back up hill by adding a water table insert. Neil has proof that the system works very well dry.
Small hole cutting with oxy is hampered by that PH time, even though the hole quality is superior to air plasma (o2 plasma excluded).
Tommy
i havent had much time with the torch yet.. so i cant really give u review with waterbed..
but for ace/oxy on 3/4 thick its aprox 11 sec for preheat..
right now the water is bit low 3/4 inch below the material..
normally on plasma i set it aprox 1/4 below the material..
I wish I could get close to the pre heat times you are getting Dan!
For me, 1/2 is close to 40 seconds.
I am using a propane type gas called HGX.
Steve
With the control cabinet & Oxy/Propane My preheat times om A36 are as follows:
1/4" 8 sec.
3/8" 9-10 sec.
1/2" 13-15 sec.
5/8" 20-23 sec.
3/4" 25-27 sec.
1" 30-40 sec.
I can actually pierce 5/8" - 1" in less preheat time but find that consistent clean no blow back pierces aren't a sure thing.
I used my machine very little with Acetylene after building the gas control cabinet. I would imagine however less preheat time could be achieved using Acet.
Once I converted to Propane I wasn't about to go back to Acet. Torch popping on pierce (which almost always will stop up the cut orrifice just enough to make your cut edge suffer) I don't know if it's the gas or simply the design of Fuel Gas (MAPP, Propane, etc.) type tips. But I get many more pierces & probably 3 times the continual cut time before having to clean the tip.
If it works.....Don't fix it!
Steve,
Do you use a LP tip for HGX?
Airgas is my supplier at the moment as well. I snagged four of the Victor cut charts-LP, MAPP, acetylene and propylene from them. They are also having a regulator "trade-up" special to promote the newer edge regs, sounds like a fair deal down here. I think it has started or will start next week, you bring in some old regs for credit.
Tommy