Looking good Eric, however, it would be very interesting to see you build automatic tool changer
Looking good Eric, however, it would be very interesting to see you build automatic tool changer
Hi,
This machine is going nuts each new day!!!
Does anyone knows someone that owns one of this kress auto toolchanger? It would be great to see how does it work inside, I have the same problem as Widigit, there is no way to buy that since they wont ship it here to Brazil. I think its pretty possible to build one if we could see how its the thing from the inside...
They recently updated the design now the new one looks like you lock it to the alum part of the spindle using your hand twisting a knurled ring, last one was with bolts I think
I quite dont understand how does SK toolchanger holds from the inside, if anyone have a drawing and wish to share would be great.
EDIT: This is the new one link by the way http://www.usovo.de/shop/product_inf...-FME-1050.html
Thank you
Now that I have multiple tool holders, I need to learn how to use the tool lengts in MACH3 & G-Code!
Can someone explain the procedure, as I don't know the difference between tool offset and tool length, or where to use them!
Eric
Eric,
I use this tool setter and you don't have to set your tools to any specific length.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...eferrerid=5900
I have broken end mills, replaced the broken one and then click on the set tool and you're back in business.
Paul
Hi Eric
There may be some differences depending how you make your Gcode i use cam to make my code.
So cam does offsets, Mach on my machine has all offsets set to Zero "Offsets are related to diameters" but here is where it gets complicated you have to use the right offset to get on the right side of the datum line. Hence easy with cam.
The master tool is a plunge type DTI use that to set Zero on the work surface.
Take the master tool and put in tool press setter base on your surface plate.
Use a height gauge "A digital is best" set the height gauge to zero when the DTI is the same reading as on the mill then set the height gauge to zero.
You can now add tools, if the tool is longer it is a plus if it is shorter it is a minus. You can just add the tools before you run the job adding them into the tool table.
This is where cam gets even more useful as you can set your post processor so that when you have finished with a tool it's offset can be cancelled before the next tool is called where it is enabled again.
So if you break a tool, you would replace it, set in the tool setter and measure the offset against the master DTI tool, modify its offset value in Mach and continue.
The pre setter i made myself it is a billet 3" dia with a clearance hole "Ground all over" to allow the tools to measured from the datum face.
HTH
Phil
Thank you Phil, that is very helpful!
You mentioned a "Master Tool"
The master tool is a plunge type DTI use that to set Zero on the work surface.
DTI = Digital Test Indicator , Correct?
No I have just returned from the local book store, where I bought the CNC Handbook by: Peter Smid ISBN:0-8311-3158-6
After a quick scan, I noticed the reference to a Master Tool and a fixed datum from the Machine Zero position. Is there a place in MACH3 where I would enter the distance from the machine table to the Master Tool Holder when at machine home pozition? Or is this off target?
Also, please understand that my machine uses home made tool holders, not industry standard taper-lock tooling with retention knobs!
It is my plan to learn G-Code without the assist of CAM software, as I'll never learn it if someone else does it for me!
I figured it out
Because MACH3 needs a common point of reference, I used one of my new tool holders without a tool in it, along with a 1.00" block to set zero on top of my fixture! Then I entered all the tool lengths by measuring from the same point on the tool holder to the end of the cutter!
Next I had to add some M & G codes to get the program to use the tool number and its length stored in MACH3!
After I got that working, I combined three programs, deleted the redundant header & footer codes, and added an M5 M1.
The M5 stopped the spindle, and the M1 told it to stop for a tool change!
Now It stops in the beginning to get tool-1, then stops for tool-2, and again for tool-3! But I don't have to set tool zero each time! In fact, I had to add .450" to the last tool length, so I could have a common tool zero for all three!
Now I'm happy! :cheers:
Widgit
Eric,
It would be interesting to see what you're trying to accomplish.
Paul
Hi Paul,
At this point I'm in training without a teacher! So learning is disorganized and slow!
All my life I've been working next to CNC machines, so I know how powerful they are!
I figure if I'm doing something, then I'm learning! Even if it means making totally useless stuff!
So far I have made ten "Welcome to ----'s kitchen plaques for all my friends, and many other items.
My immidate plans are to make some "Turner's Cubes" out of Walnut & birch, they will be a little under 3" !
That will teach me how to do bores & pockets!
Widgit
Hi Eric
Any tool as you have found any tool can be a master tool. The reason I went for a DTI is i can come down and touch the surface fast, unlike an actual tool where you must be careful not to over run.
Yes, as this type has pretty good repeatability unlike a lever type. Once i have come to the desired position i can set the Z dro to be zero or a plus amount that i must remove from the surface for it to be zero
It is as simple for me to use tool one
Me too, mine are based on the Tormach, "Like a lot of stuff they are not readily available in the UK".
But unlike the Tormach i have no undercut in the back face of the tool holder, i simply made an a collar for the nose of the mill which is located and fixed with set screws, this gives the required clearance to the collet so in effect my undercut is on the mill and all the tool holders are now easier to make.
I am ahead of you in that i have a cylindrical grinder, and my holders are ground on all important surfaces.
I disagree it is important to understand Gcode and i hand edit some of the code my cam puts out but when it gets complicated you won't beat cam and you won't forget to add that all important bit of code that sends your machine crashing if you forget it.
Phil
It's been an interresting week, as I have been running my router no-stop!
So far I have broken a dozen small carbide end mills, as I painfully learn how to use fixture offsets and tool length offsets!
The need for a chip shield is also on my to-do list, as the saw dust can get rather messy at 250 IPM!
Now I had the idea of putting a remote Cycle Start button on the front of the machine, but that is not possible with the control box that I built! It will have to be added to the next one I build!
So while learning how to use Photo Shop software to make nice images, along with learning how to convert the images to G-Codes, and learning how to setup the tooling in the router an use Mach3! I have been having a little fun making small wood plaques and some larger ones!
Here is the latest one!
Download G-Code here
Very nice sign work Wigit. That sign would apply to my own house....
CarveOne
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
I have been reading your tread. Must say nice build.
I wrote some scrips to ease tool changes.
Tool changer sure would be nice addition.
BTW kress tool changer also can be found here
USOVO.de - Werkzeugwechsler fr KRESS FME-Modelle ! Neue Version! WZWKRESSFME
It appears that who ever makes it makes several models.
I am knda interested who is the manufacturer....