[jestism]

Ok.. first I will admit that I am being lazy and did not look through all +20 some pages to see if this has been addressed...

My question is, has anyone operated their Tormach machine using just a Standard computer (with nothing but a regular version of Windows) and using the actual MACH3 software?

(I am not asking about installing the MACH3 on the controller/computer from Tormach which uses an "embedded" version of windows.)

And if so, was there any modifications that were required to be made to the machines controls themselves?
--------------
And while I am new here, I am really only looking for the information above, and not a discussion of "why" would you want to do it.

Thank-you in advance to any and all members who post me useful information on this.

[zephyr9900]

Yes. Everyone does. PCNC is actual Mach3 software, customized by Tormach (i.e. Tormach-specific XML) for their single-configuration machine.

For the details you can read through the forum archives or the Tormach manual which, along with the software, is freely downloadable from their website.

Randy

[jestism]

You missed or misunderstood my point... I want to know if the mill will work with just using MACH3 like the copy I have download and have on my house computer...... not the customized by Tormach (i.e. Tormach-specific XML) version.

Or has the mill be built in a way or with equipment that it will only operate properly using their version?

[philbur]

As Randy says most people use their own supply PC and Windows. The two things you need to take care of is have a PC that is fast enough (with a parallel printer port), Usually quoted (I think) as 1 Ghz, and to disable a lot of the normal Windows functions. This is all covered in great detail in the Mach3 manual and also I believe in the Tormach manual.

I think it is easiest for a newcomer to use the Tormach version of MACH3 rather than trying to customise MACH3 yourself. This route doesn't stop you from using your own PC and Windows.

Avoid using a laptop unless you really understand what you are doing.

Phil

Ok.. first I will admit that I am being lazy and did not look through all +20 some pages to see if this has been addressed...

My question is, has anyone operated their Tormach machine using just a Standard computer (with nothing but a regular version of Windows) and using the actual MACH3 software?

(I am not asking about installing the MACH3 on the controller/computer from Tormach which uses an "embedded" version of windows.)

And if so, was there any modifications that were required to be made to the machines controls themselves?
--------------
And while I am new here, I am really only looking for the information above, and not a discussion of "why" would you want to do it.

Thank-you in advance to any and all members who post me useful information on this.

[BSims66173]

yes it can be used with the regular version of mach 3 if you set it up properly. I have used it that way before, but went back to tormachs version for simplicity.

[zephyr9900]

No, I didn't misunderstand your point, jestism. I gave you just the information for which you asked.

To customize your own copy of Mach, you need to start with the Tormach version to reverse-engineer (look at the XML using an XML editor) to get the ports and pins, velocities and accelerations, VFD settings and all the rest anyway. And then you don't have any of the Tormach-specific macros either, unless you copy them over from the Tormach distribution. At that point, the question is "why do that?" but you said not to ask.

Since you bought your machine last fall it will be a Series II (unless you bought a much older machine used), and the recently-released 3.12b PCNC software is built on Mach 3.042.029, a very recent version. I am using that myself, with selected settings back-tweaked for my older machine.

Edit: Your downloaded copy of Mach3, unless you bought a license or use the Tormach license that came with your machine, will be limited to 150 lines of code, as will the Tormach version without its license installed.

Randy

[jestism]

Well, I have several XML editors on my machine and purchasing a full version of MACH3 isn't an issue either.

I know that the MACH3 config has the ability to "search" the control cabinet for some of the info, but with using the XML editor that isn't even an issue.

So, if I am understanding you correctly, then with a purchased versions of MACH3 and harvesting the information from one programs XML file to use to configure the MACH3, the machine should operate (providing that I don't make an error in data entry) operate properly and I will have all of the functions, "Screens", and other bells and whistles of the MACH3 available for running the machine.

Thanks

By the way, how would you know "When" I purchased my machine?

[zephyr9900]

...I will have all of the functions, "Screens", and other bells and whistles of the MACH3 available for running the machine.

Oh, is that all you want? Just ask Tormach for the way to run PCNC "open" with all the options available. If the machine is in warranty, you'll have to sign a disclaimer but then you'll have all the guts exposed. I run mine open, but it's been out of warranty for over 2 years.

By the way, how would you know "When" I purchased my machine?

You said so yourself, in your first post here. Inquiring minds like to know with whom they're conversing.

Randy

[zephyr9900]

duplicate post

[jestism]

You said so yourself, in your first post here. Inquiring minds like to know with whom they're conversing.
Randy

sounds like something I would do....

Thank-you for the help and information.

Mike J

[zephyr9900]

You're welcome, Mike. But hey, if you'd have asked your last question straight out you'd have gotten a straight out answer sooner.

Earlier on you said

I know that the MACH3 config has the ability to "search" the control cabinet for some of the info,

Now that is news to me. Over on the Mach forum there are always questions about ports and pins and motor tuning and stuff, and I've never seen someone describe a capability like that. It sounds like it would be useful.

Randy

[jestism]

I was suffering from how to ask what I wanted to know.... sometimes I over complicate a question.

The information I am referring to as far as "searching" I will post tomorrow. It is past my bed time and I am already feeling the effects of my 2nd set of night meds. But it is in the MACH3 software.. but I would have to start it up and write down exactly how to get to it. And on my night med's I would be likely to open up excel instead... LOL

I will try to ask my questions more directly in the future (providing I can figure out what it is I am asking in a simple way)....

Thanks again... and please reply to this post so it will be in my inbox when I get up tomorrow or I am liable to forget to get the info and post it.

Mike

[zephyr9900]

Thanks for offering to look up the info, Mike.

Randy

[jestism]

It doesn't do all of the work for you, but it help with the set up.

Of course, this is just my opinion, as at this time I have never attempted (haven't been in the position to do so yet, but I have a couple of vertical knee mills that I am looking at converting, so I will be there in the near future) an install and configuration of the software to a controller board/cabinet.

[zephyr9900]

Cool. I did not know about that. I'll remember it when I set up limit switches on my lathe. Thank you for pointing it out, Mike.

Randy

[jestism]

You are welcome....

Now, maybe you can help me again.

I need some "100% waterproof" or "waterproof enclosure" for my "X" limit switch (The TM1308 is what is on the switch, but it is just the standard "X" limit switch that comes on the Tormach)

I am having to keep switching them out every few days (to let them dry out)
**Note: This is NOT a Tormach issue, but a nightmare that I believe I created with my table modifcations...see picture below) because of my setup a larger amount of coolant run off is getting directed back into the switch area. I have tried all sorts of silicon (currently have a switch clamped up in a vise siliconed in an enclosure similar to the plastic shell that the original one is siliconed in) drying so I can install it tomorrow.

[zephyr9900]

hdscarbo on this board replaced his limit switches with proximity switches. Here's another discussion on X limit switch problems and some fixes. I haven't had any problems myself so no advice from me...

That's a nice toolplate. You say on the caption "There are mating alignment pin holes and bolt down holes in the original table for shifting the plate." Did you pin the table like on the Industrial Hobbies page?

Randy

[jestism]

I am not familiar with how it was done on the Industrial Hobbies page, this setup was drawn and coded for me (cause I was just learning to code at the time) by my friend who was teaching me how to write code.

Below is a picture of the table with the base plate removed. The base plate is 4140 1/2" thick* hardened plate that I had blanchard ground to .005" flatness. (In hindsight and what it cost me in tooling to get all of the holes put into the plate and tapped, using a normalized or annealed plate would have been easier) *= before it was blanchard ground.



I will check out those threads and see if they will help. I considered "optical" switches, but hear that the coolant can cause issues with them. I had started looking at "proximity" switches, but haven't done enough research on them beyond being able to spell proximity... LOL

[zephyr9900]

You've done your table already (looks good) but for reference (and for anyone else following the discussion) the IH step by step description of pinning the table starts on this page.

I hope you get your limit switch problem sorted out. But from your latest photo, the SS limit switch cover is still in place. Do you need to remove it when using the tooling plate?

Randy

[jestism]

The stainless cover is still used and is just butted up against the bottom of the base plate (so it is still installed in its original location with a bead of silicon at the top of the SS cover and the table.)

The tooling plate (what I refer to as my base plate) just stays on the table always, unless I need to shift it because of a fixture limiting my max. milling area.

The base plate is so that all of my fixtures (which are stamped with ref. locations) reinstall in the exact same place (so that I can just call the work offset that is set up for the part that is being made on the fixture) and be good to go.

I posted in the thread on the proximity switch to asking the original poster if he would email me all of the necessary info to duplicate what he did, as it sounds like the perfect solution for my issue.

Thanks for pointing me to it.

Mike J