[halestone]

try holding the drill in a pin vise then put pin vice in a regular holder

[handlewanker]

Hi all, the drill sharpening tool I mentioned lets you sharpen 1mm drills as accurate as the bought in item, time and time again, not just to make them cut but to drill the size hole for which they were intended.

I don't know what a #70 drill is like as we're all metric over here.
Ian.

[neilw20]

#70 is 0.7mm. Get yourself a free Sutton tools Drill Chart from Blackwoods.
The chuck in most pin vices are not true enough to keep the little point end on the center line unless you are holding it by hand. The 'wobbly' part of the drill needs supporting to grind it. Hold it in your fingers and use a small wheel on a hand held dremmel. It is amazingly easy to grind really tiny stuff. Get a kit of tiny wheels etc for au$20 from Bunnings Hardware.

[neilw20]

Come to the BBQ on 24th May 2008
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53559

And I will demo (or attempt to) sharpen some 0.5mm drills. BYO magnifying glass!

[Ch_Irawan]

Hi Neil, would you make a video for me (us) please?

Oh.. I wish I still in Melbourne right now...

-ichan

[jjdon]

>I don't know what a #70 drill is like as we're all metric over here.
Ian.

Neil already said it's .7mm - also do #72's, which are .635mm. They are cheap, yes, but they dull so quickly even in non-ferrous that it adds up quick. Also, I'll say that it's a little boastful ;<}, because it's actually easier to do than a 1/4" -6mm once you get the knack - much less metal, easy to keep flat, etc...

[handlewanker]

Just sharpened a 1mm drill on my hand drill sharpener, oops, wrong end, better get my #3 dioptre reading glasses, ahh that's better, didn't need sharpening after all, joking aside, when you've got to put an end on the little buggggers it takes a bit of doing, then to see if it cuts, more to it, to actually get it to cut to size....seperates the etc etc......

Here's an interesting ploy from a guy who was a chemist shop owner all his life and only took up small scale engineering when he stopped selling the pills.

He use to rotate the small drills in a spindle like a small lathe tailstock held at the right point angle to a small mounted stone in a die type grinder.

What this did was to give him a pointed drill, no relief angle, with the end having an angle perfectly concentric to the c/l.

Next he held the drill in a small pin vice and having marked it with black marker just rubbed the back flanks away to give a clearance back angle. Worked a treat, as the back angle doesn't do anything but clear the cutting face so it isn't too fussy.

I thought this was very crude, but as he was into clock making and needed to have accurate hole drilling it worked for him.
Ian.

[neilw20]

I use a carbide tip to turn the point on a drill to make it all symmetrical at the required angle then add the clearance by hand.
I also change the angle to 90 degrees on center drills by turning, then add the clearance. Now you can drill and countersink a hole in 1 operation.

[phillby]

Ian it is a bit later but I would like to see your efforts on the small drill sharpener

Thanks

Brian

[neilw20]

Why do people call me Ian?
Just for that you have to come to the BBQ on the 24th of May.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53559
Then I will have a go at some by hand.

[handlewanker]

Ahem, hi Neil, Ian calling, I've got a small drill bit sharpener, the wishbone type, if you want to make one, been redesigned a bit from the original concept.

Here's a photo so's you can see what I mean.

I might even try to make the BBQ, next Saturday I believe, and demo it at the time.
Ian.

[neilw20]

handlewanker.
I like that. You must have some other innovations for the BBQ. Please come.
I am going to make a variation for fixed 1/8" shank drills without the pin vice.

[handlewanker]

Hi, I could also bring a QCTP, (quick change tool post), I designed many years ago and can be made using some odds and ends I found in the scrap box, LOL, if only all projects were that simple.

St Albans? hmmmmmm, that's beyond the black stump just east of Woop Woop, down the track a bit, still if I polish the plugs on my old Merc and tighten the fanny belt a bit I reckon we'll get there, hope you've got a billy on the barbie, big T man meself, a drinking drover is a dead loss, what?

See you there.
Ian.

[neilw20]

You can practice on some of my broken drill bits. You can take them home after you sharpen them. They make good tiny router bits too.
As I said. Are coming alone (re: ball and chain)

[handlewanker]

Hi Neil, no ball & chain now, coming alone, hope I can see the drill bits, better bring my 10X eye glass.
Ian.

[mc-motorsports]

Hi, I could also bring a QCTP, (quick change tool post), I designed many years ago and can be made using some odds and ends I found in the scrap box, LOL, if only all projects were that simple.

St Albans? hmmmmmm, that's beyond the black stump just east of Woop Woop, down the track a bit, still if I polish the plugs on my old Merc and tighten the fanny belt a bit I reckon we'll get there, hope you've got a billy on the barbie, big T man meself, a drinking drover is a dead loss, what?

See you there.
Ian.

just wondering, is this Australian lingo? Some American's talk some jive, but I'm lost?

[handlewanker]

MC-motorsports and to whom it may concern,
St Albans is a district a fair way from where I live, about 40 KM as the crow flies, and to say that it's beyond the Black stump means it's out of sight, and east of Woop Woop is getting further on where the dingbats and womble birds meet, oops, the pills are wearing off, anyway, ( down the track a bit) is getting to be a long walk back home if you get there, which, as I drive a 1980 Mercedes Benz 280E, six cylinder twin overhead cam multi point fuel injected 186 HP thingy, I always give it a bit of a tweak to check the oil, radiator water and fan belt and look underneath to make sure the possums aren't hanging onto the chassis etc.

I don't drink in working hours, and never behind the wheel, hence the expression coined by the local law agency, "A drinking driver is a dead loss", or as it's rounded off, (a drinking drover is a dead loss) which also applies to a sheep drover that is inebriated so that the Mob ( big herd of sheep) goes walk about ( runs all over the place and get lost), that leaves me with a tea pot permanently attached to my left wrist, and the billy is a billy can that you put on a barbie (BBQ), when you want to (brew up), boil some water for a cup of tea, fair dinkum mate, strewth, (the absolute truth and without any bullsh1t), and if you want to join us for a wagga, (comfy chat about anything mates talk about) you'd better bring some snags (sausages) and a few crays (freshwater crayfish that look like big shrimps), Oh, and don't forget a slab, (a pack of 24 tins of beer, packed in a box, preferably Fosters).

That's only one interpretation, but the dinkum Aussies tell it much better, just wait till they're together.
Ian.

[neilw20]

Thats why this 5hit doesn't make stars (****) like normal sh1t would. The software does not understand slang either. Handlewanker is just plain lucky he has no stars in his name too. Come to our BBQ. You will just be able to scratch up (purchase) a ticket in time to bend an elbow. Bring your trouble and strife (wife) and the gremlins (kids).
More information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strine

[phillby]

Nei

I was asking the question of Ian. I would love to come to the BBQ but it's a bit far from Sydney to Melbourne sorry.

Ian,

Thanks,

I had seen the photo and was a bit perplexed on how to use it and you had mentioned there may be a sketch if any one was interested. I may still have trouble with a jewelers loope??? Poor tired old eyes.

Cheers

[handlewanker]

Hi Brian, know what you mean "tired old eyes", that's why I use the 10X jewelers loupe.

The drill sharpener has a pin chuck as it's holding device, shown as the central bit in the photo, mounted in the square sliding block.

With the drill sticking out of the pin chuck a certain distance, the device is held in the hand like a pen with one of the wheels shown resting on the bench top, and the drill point resting on the oil stone.

The action is to move the drill point in the pin chuck, from left to right across the stone and at the same time canting it over towards the right.

This will give you an angle on one face with the necessary back relief for cutting, repeated on the other face.

If you just held the jig upright and dragged it across the stone you would get a flat on the drill point, so you tilt the jig over to the right as you move it to the right, which gives the back off angle behind the cutting edge.

The drill is presented to the stone at the angle required, 58 degrees, by having it stick out the required distance.

This can be likened to the line that bisects an angle of 58 degrees with the line representing the drill.

When you use the device, you rub the drill point half a dozen times on one face and turn the jig around and do the other face, examining the point with the 10X eye glass.

I can assure you that even a drill that has snapped off and has a jagged end will come up like new.

When you're drilling 316 stainless with a 1mm drill and the end goes dull the last thing you want to do is put more force on it to make it cut, so I am able to hone the drill point to get free cutting at all times.

The capacity is from zereo to 5mm, using a set of 4 pin chucks bought on Ebay for about $24.00.

I made the body of the jig out of 316 stainless because it polishes up nicely and doesn't tarnish with use from hand sweat.

I've seen one variation that used brass sheet, so anything you fancy will work.
Ian.