[BobF]

Alan,
Is a call a common part of all g-code, or does that only run on some controllers?
I have written many programs on computers, but my cursory look at g-code didn't make it look much like a programming language I am used to.
Is there a good source of this information on the net?

Thanks

[acondit]

Alan,
Is a call a common part of all g-code, or does that only run on some controllers?
I have written many programs on computers, but my cursory look at g-code didn't make it look much like a programming language I am used to.
Is there a good source of this information on the net?

Thanks

Bob,

I am running EMC2. http://www.linuxcnc.org

Alan

[cinerman37]

your CNC is very good , i like made one CNC, ¿have you plans and schematics? send me please more information.

congratulations for your proyect.
Robert

[joecnc2006]

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/joescnc/

[DistortedDesign]

I have tried searching and I can't find it so do kill me. I am about to cut out my own Joes but there are some depths I am missing on parts. First is the lovejoy spider new replacement piece. I don't know how deep that is 1/2" or 3/4"?

Is there a dwg of the plastic hold down that is used with the clamp? I am talking about the round thing with the imbedded nut that you screw down to hold your work to the table?

Has anyone made a T-Slot table for joes yet? I know I can buy one but don't have the budget to buy one. I didn't know if mdf would be strong enough to make a T-slot table out of. I would only need 4 slots or 3. Could I use 1/2" or would I have to use 3/4" for the bed?

[Buzz9075]

I think I have my T slot table built out on my web page. www.cncmachine.phillipsfamily.ca.

[PhillyCyberJoe]

Hey DistortedDesign,
I haven't made my own MDF T-slot for Joe's machine, but I did for my previous machine. I purchased a T-slot bit and just cut the slots into the MDF and it worked out very well.

If you do decide to you that route, in my opinion, cutting the slots width-wise (Y axis) seemed to be more flexible than going length-wise ( X axis). Flexible in the sense that your clamping options seem to be a bit better.

Good luck.

Joe

[flyon]

PhillyCyberJoe,

Can you publish infomation on what t-slot bit you used? I'm looking to go this route and have seen different size bits. Just wondering what size you used.

Thanks,
Flyon

[joecnc2006]

I did this also a while back on a machine, used end mill 1st, then a keyhole bit.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8232

Joe

[DistortedDesign]

Don't forget about the other stuff? I need the depth of the new lovejoy spider. The size of the screw down holder for the clamp?

Joe, what was that thing that you made to go on the end of the router? It was a round with 4 verticle pieces that goes under the dust collector to move the dust towards the vacuum hose. I need to get specifics so I can cut it out.

[Buzz9075]

Correct me if I am wrong. I think you are refering to the mode I made for my router. Really it does not push the dust towards the dust collector it just stops the down draft from the router onto the work piece which pushes the dust away from the work area and my dust collect could not does job as well. You can see it on www.cncmachine.phillipsfamily.ca under yetanotherdustcollector.

[DistortedDesign]

Correct me if I am wrong. I think you are refering to the mode I made for my router. Really it does not push the dust towards the dust collector it just stops the down draft from the router onto the work piece which pushes the dust away from the work area and my dust collect could not does job as well. You can see it on www.cncmachine.phillipsfamily.ca under yetanotherdustcollector.

Yep that is it. Thanks!

Does it work well? Seems like it would take the exaust from the router and throw it out the side and spin it. That should work really well at getting the debre over to the vacuum.

I have the cad file but there are no dimentions for it. I don't know any of the side dimentions (depths) of the part. Looks like I need the overall depth and how thick the bottom is.

[Buzz9075]

The file should be in DXF format which should contain all the elevations of the lines. If not let me know and I will review. Probably be best to review the pictures with the drawing.

[Glidergider]

Buzz,
I like the down draft shield. Great design. And I'm curious about the clear plastic shield. Do you find the suction to deflect the plastic inward?
Dave

[DistortedDesign]

The file should be in DXF format which should contain all the elevations of the lines. If not let me know and I will review. Probably be best to review the pictures with the drawing.

Nope I got it open in autocad 08 right now. No dims, no side view, or anything to indicate depth. Some thing else that looks a little strange on it. It has open lines. Hard to explain but at the end of the where the vertical teeth are it is open and there are rounded areas. I can fix everything and dimention it for you, I just need the depths. Im me with your email and I will send you the file when I am done. It should only take me a minute or two to do it.

[Buzz9075]

The dxf is based on the machine tool paths not really a drawing. I check the DXF it does contain the depths (use list on the line you will get back the z value). Description of machineing. Large circle is your surface to create the thickness of the part at .31", then cut the second smallest center cirle to a depth of Z.165, then you cut out the center circle to a depth of Z0, then pocket out the four pockets at Z.09, cut the through bolt holes (2 of them - I just marked them then drilled them on the drill press) then go back and cut out the big circle to complete the task. The open lines are for geometry work.
NOTE: All is based on bottom is Z0

[DistortedDesign]

Need to check the mounting holes. In the cad file they are coming through the sidewall. Im me and I will send you the file and show you what I mean.

[Buzz9075]

Some times it sucks in but that all depends on the length of the skirt. If the skirt is long enough to make a tight seal the legs will be pulled in, but if the legs are lofted over the surface as you work I find you still get vaccum and the legs stay straight as the vacuum pulls from underneather the skirt. Helps that I have the unit able to rise and lower as well with the quick removal of the skirt you can have multiple length skirts just put the one you want in place. Only problem really comes in to place when you are cutting deep passes like 3/4".

For example if I know I am cutting 1/2" deep I will try and have the cutter exposed below the skirt by say 3/8" this way when it is only tight on the last pass.... you could even leave 1/2 clearance underneath and it will still work.

Another way is to remove a few of the legs thus reducing the pressure on the legs and causing the wind to go through selective opensing.... suggest on the far side of the cutter so the direction of the wind cross the cutter then goes to the vacuum

Now this is all fine for wood dust the same principle does not work with stuff like plastic as the vacuum pressure has to be higher to counter the heavier flying objects.

Even if I do go through a skirt every 50 to 100 hours no problem.

Hope that helps.

[DistortedDesign]

The dxf is based on the machine tool paths not really a drawing. I check the DXF it does contain the depths (use list on the line you will get back the z value). Description of machineing. Large circle is your surface to create the thickness of the part at .31", then cut the second smallest center cirle to a depth of Z.165, then you cut out the center circle to a depth of Z0, then pocket out the four pockets at Z.09, cut the through bolt holes (2 of them - I just marked them then drilled them on the drill press) then go back and cut out the big circle to complete the task. The open lines are for geometry work.
NOTE: All is based on bottom is Z0

Ok, that makes some sense but the mounting holes are still off. They will poke through the side wall. I need to make just an autocad file of it so I can add it to my layout. The machine will change it into code for me.

[Buzz9075]

Sorry that one is a little confusing... sorry no good in the dxf, those holes are only representative of where to center drill so I can drill on the press afterward (you are right if you cut them you would go through. Once I had the center mark I drilled a hole to match the bolts in the router (oh ya you have to replace them for ones that are a little longer).