[massajamesb]

I don't have any experience with the metal devil, but it looks like any other carbide tipped blade. I am not sure how they can advertise it to cut ferrous and nonferrous metals, as most non-ferrous metals generally clog up carbide cutting tools.
for the money, try it. At 40 bucks, it might be worth it.

[Woodenspoke]

I checked out the videos on the Morse site. They use the evolution saw? If you watch the black pipe demo you can see it will take awhile to cut through heavy material.

Anyway the evolution Blade maximum is 1/2" thickness? No indication on the morse blades. Even if it takes 10 minutes to cut through the piece its probably 25 plus minutes saved hacking through the plate if not more.


Woodenspoke

[One of Many]

There in lies the problem with scrap yard metals. If you do not know what the material is or what application it was used in to garner a guess, cutting it with a torch could spell disaster for much if any secondary cutting operations. Torch cutting can harden the edge, making it non-cold-workable after. Welding it can also compromize the structure to a brittle state.

For a $40 blade and a lot of headaches cutting it, not to mention risking the life span of your worm drive circular saw, I think I'd be buying a known grade in a more appropriate size.

DC

[efrem]

I think the best way is to go at your local machine shop equiped with a cnc oxyfuel table. I'm the operator of one machine like this and we charge 45$/hour. It should be around that price every where. All you have to do is to put your desired parts in DXF formats and bring them with you at the shop. You will not have any special tools to buy and your cut will be precise at +- 0,010" with any shape.

[Woodenspoke]

I have successfully milled and Bandsaw sliced this steel Plate. This makes the material an unknown entity but usable. If I can cut it easily it will save me money, which in turn I can then spend on more tools to cut more stuff.

I am always open to a better suggestion about cutting this plate thats why I posted this thread.


"you never get anything for fee, there is always a hidden cost"

Woodenspoke

[efrem]

The plate is usually 44w grade. The USA equivalent is A36. Thick plates 1" and above are normally 50w. It's near of the 1020 or less ...

Mechanical Properties 44W/300W:
Tensile: 65 to 85 ksi
Yield: 44 ksi min

Mechanical Properties 50W/350W:
Tensile: 65 to 95 ksi
Yield: 50 ksi min

[One of Many]

Cold working the material in its current condition has proven fine. Just test a piece by heating it better than red hot and let it air cool to see if the material flame hardens if you must resort to a hot cutting method. If it did harden without a test, then what would you do with it?

My other point was in terms of ultimately gambling in spending more to cut the material while expending a blade and a saw, than what a smaller precut piece of material would cost. Even if that material too, came from a scrap yard. Possibly ending penny wise and pound foolish?

Avoiding any heat induced cutting or bonding, you should be fine.

DC

[ParkerMillguy]

I've used a plasma cutter on thinner stainless.....Has anyone used one on thicker mat'ls?....Just curious if one would cut 1" plate.

[massajamesb]

Torch cutting can harden the edge, making it non-cold-workable after.

DC[/QUOTE]

I use a variety of metal forming tools every day, for the most part. Among them a planishing hammer, english wheel, slip roller, brake, etc. usually on nothing thicker than 16 gauge, which is cut with a shear anyway.
Gawd help me if I have to cold work 1" thick steel!

[One of Many]

I use a variety of metal forming tools every day, for the most part. Among them a planishing hammer, english wheel, slip roller, brake, etc. usually on nothing thicker than 16 gauge, which is cut with a shear anyway.
Gawd help me if I have to cold work 1" thick steel!

If you cut metal by chipping it out with a saw, mill or drill, you are still cold working the material, are you not?

I have even seen 3-6" plate cold worked by chip(bump) forming on Press Brakes. Better than 1" plates of Invar36 cold worked on gantry presses.

BIG world-a-difference' between Machinists, sheetmetal or plate workers. Yet, if there is no heat applied to the metal, then the process falls into the same class of work as I know it. All be that moving it or removing it cold.

Cold working the thick stuff is young mans work, but nothing impossible if you have the right equipment. Maybe it would help not to confuse cold working with cold forming though.

DC

[massajamesb]

If you cut metal by chipping it out with a saw, mill or drill, you are still cold working the material, are you not?

I have even seen 3-6" plate cold worked by chip(bump) forming on Press Brakes. Better than 1" plates of Invar36 cold worked on gantry presses.

BIG world-a-difference' between Machinists, sheetmetal or plate workers. Yet, if there is no heat applied to the metal, then the process falls into the same class of work as I know it. All be that moving it or removing it cold.

Cold working the thick stuff is young mans work, but nothing impossible if you have the right equipment. Maybe it would help not to confuse cold working with cold forming though.

DC

I don't believe that I have ever had any reason to confuse the two,unless I was making a joke, such as I was. Sorry if I offended you, but I had a mental picture in my head of me trying to convince one of my shop underlings to try and shape some 1" steel on a sandbag with a shot hammer. Hence my post.

I was simply saying I would never want to work with 1" thick steel in that application.I also have done my share of machine work, and you have a very valid point (more than one, actually). I do agree with you in full, make no mistake.
Now, back to the subject at hand...

[One of Many]

No offense taken massajamesb.

The first sentence was in response to your post. Just in case I gave the wrong impression in my post that created any confusion.

The rest of my drivel was clarification to other readers that might not grasp the difference between the several forms of cold metal working terminology. Somewhat placed out of context by your humor, but not directed at you personally.



DC