[biotech1]

DO you think it can handle a rotozip id did some mods by making it bigger 24x24x10

[lgroulx200]

Hi,

Yippee! It is 9:00 PM here and Canada Post just delivered my new Pro driver board from HobbyCNC. I was surprised to see a Canadian postal employee delivering this late on Friday night. I paid to have the board express delivered and figured it was going to be UPS or something.

My wife will solder the board tomorrow for me - she use to repair boards at Northern Telecom.

My machine will be finished this weekend.


Larry

[Coolcuttings]

Hi all,

I am almost finished making my Rockcliff machine. It has cost me a little more than $1500 Australian. The rods here cost a fortune as they are imported, 3 feet cost $65 australian. I ended up going with the board and drivers as recomended on his site. I am cutting the y and z again as we use the metric system and 5/8 round router bits are hard to find. Ended up ordering 1 in from the US.
I post the finished machine photo.

[lgroulx200]

Hi,

I am finished my machine. I would recommend it to anyone. It went together very easy and was not hard to setup. With my new CNChobby Pro board and 200 oz steppers, it will jog 60 inches per minute without stalling.

If I were to build it again, I would shorten the Z travel. The Z axis tool plate can come down on the X table and still have plenty of travel.

Thanks

Larry

[biotech1]

PICS PICS gotta SEE PICS hope to finish mine this week do you think we could use it to build the joe 2000 or the jrgo machines?????????:rainfro:

[lgroulx200]

Hi,

I will post some pictures in the next few days. You will be able to use this machine to build the other CNC machines.

Cutting with the Dremel is a pain. I needed to slow the cutting rate down so not to overload the router or break bits.

Larry

[lgroulx200]

Hi,

Still looking for my camera to take some pictures. I replaced the Dremel with my Canadian Tire trim router. The Dremel was painfully slow to use. I have the 1/2" shafts so I have a little flex in the Y axis. If I keep the cutting speeds down and don’t make deep cuts, I have no problems.

I can’t say this enough: if a person is looking for a great machine to build with little money and complexity, this is it. It cuts great, moves at a good clip and could be used to build a “bigger and better” machine.

Larry

[Coolcuttings]

Hello all,
I have just finished my second go at making the router table. I used MDF in the first one and we had a day of 37C deg and the cutting table ended up having a curve of 4mm. This time I used form ply 17.5mm and plastic coated.

I reduced the Z axis by 50mm as I did not need it that tall and the cutting table is 408mm * 408mm (15*15 inch). One thing I liked about the design is it is so simple to increase in size. I changed the way the slide bearing are held in place and it seemed easier to line up. Instead of cutting the holding plate at 2*2 inch I made them run the full length of the groove. A bit too much torque on the screw made the 2*2 twist and then in was binding.
All I have left to do is add 12*12mm aluminium box tube to the outer edges of the cutting table and add a small sheet of foam to this. This will so router from carving it to cutting table and make it easy to hold balsa pieces down.

:banana:

CC

[rockcliff]

Hi All
It's nice to hear you guys have had some good success with your builds,
thank you for the positive comments, on easy and simple construction, I have read some of the comments and improvements you have made and will make some changes and additions you recommended to the plans to help future builders, we will be adding some new machine designs and some different machines to the same plan in the new year, so feel free to get a copy anytime, your registration code will be valid, and if there is anything I can help with please ask or email anytime, and again thank you for sharing your knowledge, and experiences.


Nick Adamo
Rockcliff Machine Inc.

[Coolcuttings]

Hi there,
Just finished drawing the famous roadrunner from Mach3 and it turned out great. Few minor adjustments and all should be running even faster have it set a 20inch per minute on rapids just till I get the hang off things.
Still need to install some limit switches and a sound proof box. Wife complained about the noise as I had it running in the kitchen( to hot to work in the shed )

Nick,
I will be looking forward to the new plans that you come out with.




CC

[studysession]

I like the looks of everything. But one question - won't the plywood warp?

[macgemby]

I used mdf but I did seal it, I spray painted it with a couple of coats of paint, I have not had any problems so far, but for sure mdf cannot be allowed to get wet, I would think plywood or laminate would be even better than mdf for moisture resistance, aluminum would be the ultimate, I just do not have any metal working equipment.

[lgroulx200]

Hi macgemby,

Nice looking machine!

To answer the other chaps question about plywood warping, having the layers of wood at different angles makes plywood resist warping and increases strength.

I installed X and Y home switches, sure helps with setup. I drilled holes 1" apart on the table for screwing down part hold clamps. Very pleased with the quality of parts that I am making.

Still haven't got the Gcode 100% yet. Ruined a new 1/4" bit by shearing off a poorly placed hold down screw. Run a small program that I wrote without doing a trial run. A line of code was in the wrong spot and the machine did a quick jog into the screw.

Larry

[Coolcuttings]

Hi all,

The ply I used in the machine is formply which we use for concrete form work. The black colour is plastic coating and the ply itself is made to be water resistant. The wood coloured edges have been coated in varnish to protect from moisture. If it does warp to much it only cost $80 for the board and a day to cut and build. Not to much trouble for the price.


CC

[lgroulx200]

[QUOTE=lgroulx200;236747]Hi macgemby,

Nice looking machine! ]



Sorry Coolcuttings,

Nice looking machine!

Larry

[Coolcuttings]

Larry,
thanks.
Almost finished the sound proof box for the machine to fit in to. Just need to add some lights and the sound foam.
What inch per minute rate do you have your machine set at?

[lgroulx200]

Hi Coolcuttings,

My jog speed is set at 36 ipm. The machine will go faster but my x lead nut (I used a rod coupler) was installed a little off. If it goes faster then that the free end of the lead screw whips around quite a bit. I'm worried that if the rod coupler come loose, I will have a tough time repairing it.

I finishing a router that I was building before using my new router. I am changing the Z axis design to use the same idea as on the rockcliff router. Not that many parts and it sure works nice.

Larry

[Coolcuttings]

Hello gang,

I have just finished the box to put the machine in to keep the wife and child happy. The little fella could not sleep if I had it running in the shed at night.
one day I must insulate the shed. all I have to do now is stick in the machine and hook up the dust collector.
I am running 12vdc garden spot lights in the box to keep the heat down and so I can see.
[IMG][/IMG]

[Mr.Chips]

Hello gang,

I have just finished the box to put the machine in to keep the wife and child happy. The little fella could not sleep if I had it running in the shed at night.
one day I must insulate the shed. all I have to do now is stick in the machine and hook up the dust collector.
I am running 12vdc garden spot lights in the box to keep the heat down and so I can see.
[IMG][/IMG]

What is the box size, hard to get a feeling for the size from the picture. Or better yet a picture of your CNC inside.
Thanks

[Coolcuttings]

Greeting Mr. Chips,
the box is 48D*32H*35W or internals 1080*730*760mm's which is just big enough to fit in the machine into.

CC