[jips]

Buyer protection from Alibaba

Now that is seriously funny

Don't know but it's better to have one that nothing , btw I didn't need it ,so
For the one who didn't feel confortable with international purchase wait for the US dealer or go tormach novakon or else , here we say " we can't get butter and money of the butter " lol so take a breath and do what you think the good way .

[vmax549]

NOw that there IS funny . I have been working in this sense back when we had to punch holes in a paper tape to make the machine move. AND YOU ???

Advocating Fraud makes you a third party to it in my book. BUT then again you GOT your machine and are NOT out the money. YOU were it seems just the Patsy used to set it up.

You should be really proud of yourself.

You really need to take these guys advice about teh setup . The way you are thinking of it willl ONLY cause you grief in the end. There is a reason MOST do not try to use it that way. In modern normal CNC work Zero is the top of the material and that is how the CAM program will see it as well. And yes it may seem upside down to you but it is not. The sooner you stop trying to FORCE IT to work your way the more enjoyable it will be.



(;-) TP

[vmax549]

Wanker I do not plan to banter with you any longer as you seems to be at a severe disadvantage and I will not take advantage of you in that way. To the rest of yall BUYER BEWARE you have been warned and it was also explained HOW to file a complaint with the Chinese consulate in DC. There is nothing more to be discussed.

(;-) TP

[ihavenofish]

so which machine did you order?

machines are being delivered. several of them now (at least 5 or 6).
we all know skyfire screwed up big time, but hes delivering now. it will take time, but eventually he will get back on top (i hope).




and handlewanker. zero is the top of the work because thats often the only place you can reasonably touch off the tool. you could call it 323535 if you wanted, but you are touching off the top of the work in most cases. not always, but mostly.

why would you not want to call it something other than zero? ill let you figure that out when you slam the tool into the vise the first time you press go to zero without thinking. :P

once youve made several different parts, youll start to see what works and what doesnt.

[Tkamsker]

ce certificate i am impressed where has this been done ?


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[daniellyall]

Ian get a tool setter or make one ( very easy to make ) it will save you destroying you machine and if you don't do what the experienced CNC boys say you will wreak you machine fast.

you can jog at 0.001, 0.01, .1, 1mm and touch to the top of you part, you only use the table if you know how to set the code correctly, not to be to rude you don't.

[jips]

ce certificate i am impressed where has this been done ?


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Udem Belgelendirme

[jips]

so which machine did you order?

Svm0 , 1hp bldc spindle motor/usb controller/2:1spindle pulley transmission set/iso 20 spindle unit/PDB/servo stepper driving upgrade 3axis/2nd high speed spindle set/enclosure

[Dingenman]

Svm0 , 1hp bldc spindle motor/usb controller/2:1spindle pulley transmission set/iso 20 spindle unit/PDB/servo stepper driving upgrade 3axis/2nd high speed spindle set/enclosure

I think his response was to Vmax..

PS. Nice machine!

[high-side]

Hi Lee.......yes, I thought about that aspect of not getting the G code right and plowing into the vice etc.........I suppose I could mount the 50mm setting block on another block and have 100mm above the table as the zero point but that defeats the object of the setting block per se.

The 50mm zero above the table would make it 7 mm above the vice base as the vice base is 43mm above the table........adding a parallel height to get the job above the vice jaws is just another calculation.

I don't think using the job as a zero point would make sense as it varies every time you do a job, whereas the setting block establishes the zero as a fixed point for all the tools no matter how long or short.

If I use the top of a job I have to jog down and decide when the tool touches without jamming hard on the job, and that would apply to every job I set in the vice....different heights each time.

When you machine a bit off the top face of a job the zero point no longer exists.

I'm working on the basis that the vice base is 7mm below the zero point.......that means at Z -7 the cutter will touch the vice base......everything else will be + values.

So, if I have a job 40mm thick and I put it down on a 20mm parallel in the vice.......the top of the parallel is 13mm above zero which means the top of the job is 40 + 13...or G coded at Z +53mm.....and that applies to all tools set with the setting block on the table.

I'm going to test out this method using a wood dowel for a cutter and a wood block as the job........ the object being to go from somewhere off the job down to the work surface and touch without drama.

OK....I agree that if you touch down on the job surface for every job and re-set to zero each time, the Z code will be all minus figures, and the following G code sequence will reflect the cutter depth as required........but the next tool will also have to be re-set to zero so you lose the first tool zero setting which makes doing a second piece of work a re-set exercise all over again......or so it seems to me.
Ian.

Handle, your way over complicating this....
I leave a 1" Jo Block at the machine for touching off the tools Z height at the top of the material, part, etc. Here's how I do it:
1. Jog the Z axis down to slightly less than 1" of the top of the material/part.
2. Set the 1" Jo Block on the top of the material/part
3. With my Pendant in one hand, and the Jo Block in my other, start jogging the Z axis UP/POSITIVE in small increments till the Jo Block will just slip in between the part/material and the cutting edge/insert of the tool.
4. Now, set Z the height on your controller, (mach3, or whatever your using) and input the extra 1" Negative from the Jo Block.
This method is simple, safe, and fast. No jamming tools coming down, no fancy gadgets needed.

[handlewanker]

Handle, your way over complicating this....
I leave a 1" Jo Block at the machine for touching off the tools Z height at the top of the material, part, etc. Here's how I do it:
1. Jog the Z axis down to slightly less than 1" of the top of the material/part.
2. Set the 1" Jo Block on the top of the material/part
3. With my Pendant in one hand, and the Jo Block in my other, start jogging the Z axis UP/POSITIVE in small increments till the Jo Block will just slip in between the part/material and the cutting edge/insert of the tool.
4. Now, set Z the height on your controller, (mach3, or whatever your using) and input the extra 1" Negative from the Jo Block.
This method is simple, safe, and fast. No jamming tools coming down, no fancy gadgets needed.

Hi, thanks for the advice.......as it's all new to me I've been trying from common logic to have a Z zero I can relate to.

I found using the 50mm setting block with it's dial indicator on either the vice base or next try on the table top, the zero is easy to achieve.

As it's only for an SVM-0 utilisation and to that scale, the distances with the setting block at 50mm are quite within the field of the vice dimensions I'm using.

You do need a set of accurately sized and ground parallels to make it work otherwise you would be working in the dark.

At the moment this is the path I'm treading.....by trial and error, if it turns out I'm swimming against the stream then I'll re-evaluate........no sense in being bloody minded just to be different......but at the same time I don't usually follow the herd just because they're going in a different direction.

You would be in deep water if the predicted outcome is not what you plan for, of that I'm well aware.
Ian.

[handlewanker]

Ian get a tool setter or make one ( very easy to make ) it will save you destroying you machine and if you don't do what the experienced CNC boys say you will wreak you machine fast.

you can jog at 0.001, 0.01, .1, 1mm and touch to the top of you part, you only use the table if you know how to set the code correctly, not to be to rude you don't.

Hi Dan.........I bought a Z zero tool setter 2 years ago and am using it as I said to get the Z zero from the vice base, but am going to use it on the table as I think that is the best base for the zero point.

As far as the G code is concerned.......learning fast and making more sense each time.

With the setting block at 50mm above the table surface and the vice base thickness at 43mm above the table surface.........generating the G code from that point is straightforward...........logically it's all Z Plus above the zero point.
Ian.

[handlewanker]

Machine arrived today !



First CE one ! Custom clearance was fast

Hi Jips........reminds me when I got mine......quite a big box.

BTW.........what method are you using to get it out of the box and onto the work bench?......there's just no place you can attach a sling to for lifting........200kg is quite a weight to lift.
Ian.

[jips]

I have a hook on the roof to use pulley and will attach extension on the sub frame wich is fixed on the box , but this is plan B if we ( 4 guys ) can't do it safely by hand . We lift it and install this weekend

[handlewanker]

Hi.......plan for 60Kg each person with the lift from floor level.

I used an engine crane and bolted two pieces of wood to the sub frame to stick out front and back so I could attach rope slings to it........the casing is the weak point as you don't want to abrade the paintwork.......it's powdercoated, so matching the colour for any dings will be a problem.

If you do use ropes low down etc, be aware that it's top heavy and could flip over very quickly.

If you get stuck for a plan, go to the earlier posts where I posted some photos of the lift I did with the engine crane and the plan of the positioning of the rope slings for the lift.

I mentioned the problem of the lifting to Defeng about 2 years ago, but nothing came of it.......he uses a fork lift, and even that is a dodgy method for a finished machine.

The ideal lift would be a large steel eye bolt screwed into the top of the column........the other method was to have 2 holes in the column sides near the top so that a steel bar through it can be used to attach a rope to.........that would be so simple.

It would also be possible to get some eye bolts to screw through the mill base and into the sub frame in place of the socket screws ........but as the lift would be very top heavy, some rope around the column top would also be very necessary to prevent a flip.

I would not advise attaching a rope around and under the head casting as this would put too much weight on the Z axis ball screw nut.........the same applies to the X and Y axis linear slides if you attach rope under the table.
Ian.

[jips]

Tanks Ian , your advice concerning the flipping risk is a very good point i didn't focus on yet , i all ready saw your lift in previous post just need the rope to di it this way

[handlewanker]

Hi Jips....the rope I used was a roll of stuff called anchor rope, it's a white Nylon type, several thousand Kg breaking strain, used to tie yachts to anchors etc.......about 19mm diam and 100 metres long ......got it on EBAY.

I splice all my own slings in pairs with varying lengths and have loops on each end.......a bundle of steel shackles also makes life easier.

You could use chain, works well with shackles, but it needs to be well padded to stop abrasion etc.

With hindsight, an easier method would be to get 4 lengths of 10mm all thread.......at least a metre long.......then attach some threaded eyebolts to the top ends of the threaded rods and screw the bottom ends into the bolt holes in the sub frame under the mill base, use nuts and washers on the mill base to keep the mill attached to the subframe........attach a piece of chain to the eye bolts on each side of the mill, using a wooden spreader bar to keep the allthread from bowing in.

With that method the centre of gravity will be much lower with no fear of flipping over.........you might have to add some weight (sand bag) to one end to balance the load.

You'll have to pardon me if I'm super cautious, but one slip for me with the lift after the 2 year wait would have been a disaster..
Ian.

[jips]

That's why i don't hurry the lifting , goal is no mistake flip is not an option ! I think i will put eyebolt
The usb card was perfect easy install all mach3 setting up to work with the mill and the pdf readme file was just the same
:
I ask to Defeng concerning Asuratman and he answer that his control box wich he ordered is not totally ready and should be able to finish and send him some days after Festival , He will email you Asuratman
And to finish last teasing a Skyfire ATC is in progress 12 and 8 tool post compact design linear and will be available for svm 0/1/2 !

[handlewanker]

Hi Jips, that ATC is quite a device.....probably not practical for the SVM-0........the cabinet would be very crowded.

BTW.......what coolant system are you going to use?.....there is no form of sealing at the bottom of the mill base.....any water based coolant that gets under the mill will stay there and rust the bottom of the cabinet out......it will also run down the base bolt threads and leak onto your benchtop.

It would be a good idea to fix that potential problem before you set up for milling.........I'm going to try some silicon sealer on the bolt threads and around the base before the metal work gets oily and silicon won't stick to it......small details, but a pain in the arse later.

Did you get the 2 LED strip lights fitted on each side inside the cabinet?..........they light up the interior like daylight with no shadows.....highly recommended.
Ian.

[jips]

Hi Ian our both enclosure was the last a new one is in dev right now , by the way i think to put a sealing to at the base but no fluid coolant for me i prefer to use kind of "fog buster / koolmist system" this way only a dayly cleaning as i'm more at prototyping small part for customers than mass production , the svm0 Atc could be really interesting for a learning use at school for example or as I intend to offer training course and keep the most important tool set in the atc