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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    65

    Question Tramming Spindle Square

    Has anyone used this spindle square?
    What do you think?

    tramming spindle square

    This seems like a good idea. When you make an adjustment, you know right away if your on the money or not and can quickly reach perfect. With the other single dial indicator methods, you need to rotate the spindle and take another measurement.....make an adjustment, rotate the spindle, take a measurement, make an adjustment.....etc.

    Thanks, :cheers:

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    3319
    Should work fine - providing you check to make sure it IS SQUARE and STAYS SQUARE before/while you use it.

    I"d prefer a wider spread between the dials for a finer squareness resolution.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1880
    since you are spining it around a circle I don't think it would mater if it is square. Unless of course the POS is flexing then it would be bad.

    I think it would be more critical if the bearings or alignment in the spindle bore is true or the runout (which is the biggest factor) is too large.
    thanks
    Michael T.
    "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1622
    Quote Originally Posted by miljnor
    since you are spining it around a circle I don't think it would mater if it is square. Unless of course the POS is flexing then it would be bad.

    I think it would be more critical if the bearings or alignment in the spindle bore is true or the runout (which is the biggest factor) is too large.
    I wouldn't trust it within .005 on a 1/2" shank. So what if the indicators read the same. If you still need to turn the spindle to verify the assembly is gripped true to its calibrated plane, then why bother. I doubt it will gain you much precision considering its span either.

    It's got bling! Looks twice as precise with 2 dials though don't it? :rainfro:

    DC

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    All a bit academic seeing as how this is copied right from the ad.

    "Super Blow Out Sale! Expires 02/29/04"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1880
    But the only way that the plane can be out is too have the spindle itself missaligned, i think.

    if the shaft was bent on the tool or the too dials read differently, it wouldn't matter as long as the readings didn't fluctuate as it spins on its axis.

    The only problem I could see with the tool is if it flexed as it spins. And even a 1/2" shaft isn't going to flex under the pressure of a dial indicater.

    And as far as how far apart the indicators are thats just a math problem. you can arrive at whatever runout you want if you do the math. I would personally replace the dials with .0001" reading ones. But another thing to consider on the distance is that alot of home mills don't have tables that big (I think the one on my mill is 6"x25" aprox).

    All a bit academic seeing as how this is copied right from the ad.

    "Super Blow Out Sale! Expires 02/29/04"
    While this is true for the lower price you can still buy them at regular price. But personaly I don't think it would take much to make one with your own dial indicators. Then you could make it as wide as your comfortable with.
    thanks
    Michael T.
    "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    165
    Sorry split63 but I think you would have to be crazy to buy one of these. How many mills do you have how often do you tram them and what does USD 140 (on sale) mean to you.

    As somebody else pointed out you would have to check the instument was square first and how would you do that. You can't use the mill because you not sure if it's square in the first place. Also how do you now that you have mounted it with its shaft parallel to the spindle axis. No mention in the add about precision. Whats wrong with rotating a single instrument, zero scope for error.

    You guys must be short of something to spend your money on.

    Regards (chair)
    Phil

    Quote Originally Posted by split63
    Has anyone used this spindle square?
    What do you think?

    tramming spindle square

    This seems like a good idea. When you make an adjustment, you know right away if your on the money or not and can quickly reach perfect. With the other single dial indicator methods, you need to rotate the spindle and take another measurement.....make an adjustment, rotate the spindle, take a measurement, make an adjustment.....etc.

    Thanks, :cheers:

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1136
    gotta agree with Phil, based on 140$ and the duty cycle that puppy would have, a Starrett mic'd be a bargain at 50k

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    If you want inexpensive it is difficult to beat a length of 1/2" round bar, turn a point on one end, file and polish to a tiny ball tip, bend to a Z so when it is held in a collet the ball tip is perpendicualr and sweeps out a 10" or 12" diameter circle then get the trusty feeler gauges between the tip and the table. ALign the spindle to within .001" over the sweep of the tip.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    100
    Once you have learned how to set up a head with an indicator, it can be done in about a minute. I use a mini mag base and a test indicator so the dial faces up. sometimes on complicated one off parts, I have had to set the head 1/2 doz. times a day. You just get used to it. Looks like a tool a rookie that dosen't feel like learning would be interested in.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    165
    Not enough Bling. Do the feeler gauges come with a digital read out.

    Phil

    Quote Originally Posted by Geof
    If you want inexpensive it is difficult to beat a length of 1/2" round bar, turn a point on one end, file and polish to a tiny ball tip, bend to a Z so when it is held in a collet the ball tip is perpendicualr and sweeps out a 10" or 12" diameter circle then get the trusty feeler gauges between the tip and the table. ALign the spindle to within .001" over the sweep of the tip.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1880
    mine do, but I think the batteries are low because it never changes! one of them reads .001 constantly! Maybe thats why they were so cheap! they are broken!

    hehehe
    thanks
    Michael T.
    "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    402
    I think you got the new disposables. I've got them too. No battery and no reset button.

    Carel

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1622
    I too thought the question was toward the academic side(food for thought) as part of its functional benefits on the surface without knowing how well it would work. A "Blow Out Sale" is a good indication that they do not sell on their own merits.

    Best to learn before paying out cash for fancy trinkets, on sale or not!

    If for whatever reason the grip holding the assembly tilted in relation to the spindle centerline isn't true. Setting the tram likewise is copying the error, not eliminating it to something insignificant. The user must decide what is good enough, provided they can see where the difference applies.

    DC

  15. #15
    Regardless of how out of square this device is to the spindle, just set zero when parallel to the x-axis, rotate 180° and reset zero to 50% of the error. That is the true zero!

    Its like a machinists level, flip it 180° to check the bubble again! Make an adjustment on the level, and your level is now true!

    That dual indicatior thingy is just glitz and glitter to catch the novis's eye and walet!
    There are so many gizmo's on the market for tramming and squaring, yet it's the simplest task a machinist has to do! For myself, I have gizmo's I've made, just save myself time, not to make it more accurate or easier!
    A bent 1/4" rod and an indicator is all you need to do it perfectly every time!
    I even have one that lets me tram around a 6" Kurt vise, so I don't have to remove the dang thing!

    Eric
    www.widgitmaster.com
    It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1880
    How many widigts can a widgitmaster fidgit with
    when the widgitmaster fidgitis with widigits?
    never notice this before: so here it goes

    A widgitmaster can fidgit with as many widgets
    as a widgitmaster could fidgit with, if a widigmaster could
    fidget with widgets!

    thanks
    Michael T.
    "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    4396
    Honestly the tool shown in the begining of the post is a waste of money. Split63 you would be better off making your own indicator set-up. When a lot of Machinist first start this trade they make a lot of their own tools. My tool box is full of custom tooling. Thread Guide Blocks, Quick Drill Diameter Checkers Number, Letter, Fractional, Indcator Set-ups for Lathes, Boring Bar Setters Both Lathe and Mill. The list is really too long and most of them where made in my first 3 years. That is also the way to learn about the trade.
    Do Yourself a huge favor and save your money for practical things like Micrometers. That tool most likely won't get much use.

    BTW: Depending on how big your work piece is you can use angle plates and sine bars to cut angles on parts. Then you won't have to tram the head.
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    Quote Originally Posted by tobyaxis
    .....sine bars......
    Sine bars??????? Next thing we know you will claim to have worked with dinosaur bones; live ones .

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    4396

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by Geof
    Sine bars??????? Next thing we know you will claim to have worked with dinosaur bones; live ones .
    Oops, Sine Plates..................Sine Plates!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    This is what happens when you are up all night doing research. Sorry for the typo At least the wireless works now :banana:

    Thanks for the correction Geof, I'm going to bed as soon as get free time.

    BTW: Geof, have you ever heard of A588 steel? Structural for like Bridges and Buildings. High Strength Low Alloy. Need 1" by 1" square 24ft (wrong)
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    tobyaxis; I think sine bar is the correct term. I was just getting at the fact the last time I used one was when I was an apprentice and I have not even heard them mentioned in the past twenty years. Clearly you are old beyond your years (oops is that an insult?)

    A588? Sorry not a clue. I made a pledge to myself years ago; if it can't be made out of aluminum, brass, plastic or leaded steel don't make it

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