[martin_05]

you can statically balance them by putting a snug fitting shaft through them and then supporting the shaft at both ends on level bars. The heavy side will rotate to the bottom. Remove a little material from the side that rotates down and do it again. When the handle will stay in any position it is statically balanced. The problem with this is that if the bars aren't level it will just keep rolling if close to balanced.

I use a balancer like the one in the picture to balance model airplane props. This one uses wheels to eliminate the need to have the level bars on the end. In the picture you will also note the cone shaped pieces which automatically center the propeller bore on the shaft. You could rig up something like this with some skate bearings. The prop balancer might work, but is pretty delicate and I'm not sure if I would put the weight of a mill handle on it, but it gives you the idea.

Yup, 'been flying model airplanes since I was a kid (and helicopters as I got older). I have exactly that prop balancer and have used it many time. I was eyeballing it for ideas. The key, aside from having a balanced shaft and components, are those two centering conical pieces. Or, more generally speaking, having the piece located at the center of rotation.

The other thing is to make a piece that fits into the slot cut out for the key in order to replace missing material.

I am going to wait until I get my 3HP motor and the VFD and use the "If it ain't broke don't fix it method". I'll run the motor without a pulley first. I'll add a half key to the shaft to account fot he keyway material. If that's smooth I'll add the pulley and see what, if anything, changes. If that's smooth, it ain't broke...no need to fix it. I hope I can take the lazy route.

I just want to minimize vibration at the head as it translates into motion at the cutter tip and just isn't a good thing.

-Martin