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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    17

    Re: 8020 6'x4' CNC router

    Looks like a great build so far, Im excited to see how it turns out! Those really are some beefy trucks.

    In my experience with 80/20, the "L" shaped brackets are pretty flimsy. If you have problems with them , and / or have the means to, I would swap those brackets out for the gussett style connectors. A 30 series two unit gusset connector from 80/20 is part number 4338 N. They run at about $8.95 a piece, as compared to your "L" shape ones at $6.55 (Part #4304 N), but even if you only put one or two at each corner you will notice a HUGE difference. I can bend the "L" brackets by hand. Gussets, not so much.

    Touching on the connectors though, you may want to slip a t-nut or two into the legs now, and brace the bottom of the legs, even if only with temporary pine 2x4s and a long bolt to the t-nuts. Once weight starts getting added to your assembly, those legs will start flexing more and more. Itll be much easier to do temporary braces now and put in t-nuts for future permanent bracing before you get all the weight of the machine on it.

    Looking forward to seeing it come together!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    84

    Re: 8020 6'x4' CNC router

    Quote Originally Posted by Seelesturm View Post
    Looks like a great build so far, Im excited to see how it turns out! Those really are some beefy trucks.

    In my experience with 80/20, the "L" shaped brackets are pretty flimsy. If you have problems with them , and / or have the means to, I would swap those brackets out for the gussett style connectors. A 30 series two unit gusset connector from 80/20 is part number 4338 N. They run at about $8.95 a piece, as compared to your "L" shape ones at $6.55 (Part #4304 N), but even if you only put one or two at each corner you will notice a HUGE difference. I can bend the "L" brackets by hand. Gussets, not so much.

    Touching on the connectors though, you may want to slip a t-nut or two into the legs now, and brace the bottom of the legs, even if only with temporary pine 2x4s and a long bolt to the t-nuts. Once weight starts getting added to your assembly, those legs will start flexing more and more. It'll be much easier to do temporary braces now and put in t-nuts for future permanent bracing before you get all the weight of the machine on it.

    Looking forward to seeing it come together!
    Hey, thanks for the input.

    I'm trying to make the rigidity of the main 3060 frame independent of the legs. I'm thinking of using 6"hx10"wide pieces of 3/4" aluminum plate to tie the ends together instead of the 3/8" 6x6 plates that I started drilling. Not sure if this is overkill or not. then again nothing is as overkill as HSR35 rails on a dinky DIY 8020 router. Also there are going to be 3/8" L plates underneath joining the 3060 together.

    I really wish I had paid the measly couple bucks more for those beefier gussets you mentioned.

    If I can be successful driving the gantry from the side I'll be tossing in two more legs at the midpoint and then trying everything together with 1530 cross supports. I'd like to house at least a shop vac and my cyclone dust deputy underneath on a shelf in one of those noise killing boxes.

    x a million on the t nuts. Seems I always find myself needing a tnut after I've blocked off the ends. Forced to use a $1+ drop in nuts instead of 10 cent cheapo nuts is always a bummer.

    "Don't drink and drill"
    Attachment 248958

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