[Don Clement]

FYI: I find these one touch dispensing bottles convenient. I have two on my bench, one filled with alcohol for cleaning and degreasing painted surfaces, and one filled with acetone for cleaning and degreasing non-painted surfaces. http://menda.descoindustries.com/Vie...8#.Ur2PY9JDt8E

Don

[mike sr1]

Attachment 215644


I use these,they are used, but seem to work with any solvent or oil I have put in them, beats the Windex bottles etc. The aluminum dents easily but the price is right.......

[cobrakai]

Moot point. When water soluble coolant is used the no residue TTS shank is compromised when changing tools unless one cleans the shank after every tool change. BTW I don't.

Don

That's exactly what I thought would happen, but surprisingly my TTS holders have stayed perfectly clean with flood coolant. I have noticed that the coolant gets sucked up into the ER collet area, but everything else gets flung away by the spinning spindle. Granted, I'm just using the stock flood nozzle so it's not exactly splashing upwards with much velocity.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

That's exactly what I thought would happen, but surprisingly my TTS holders have stayed perfectly clean with flood coolant. I have noticed that the coolant gets sucked up into the ER collet area, but everything else gets flung away by the spinning spindle. Granted, I'm just using the stock flood nozzle so it's not exactly splashing upwards with much velocity.

I've been using my TTS tools for years, and have only very rarely cleaned the shanks. I clean the collet about once a month, mostly because the anti-sieze on the taper loses effectiveness. The shanks and collet bore just don't get wet simply from normal use. The TTS flange is surprisingly effective at keeping coolant off the shanks. And I'm running a very high-volume flood system, so there is often a torrent of coolant splashing up onto the spindle.

Regards,
Ray L.

[Don Clement]

That's exactly what I thought would happen, but surprisingly my TTS holders have stayed perfectly clean with flood coolant. I have noticed that the coolant gets sucked up into the ER collet area, but everything else gets flung away by the spinning spindle. Granted, I'm just using the stock flood nozzle so it's not exactly splashing upwards with much velocity.

If that works for you then great. I have the same modified coolant setup as Ray (thanks Ray) and yes the TTS shanks get wet when I change tools. Perhaps its my method using the Tormach PDB but that's what happens for me. All the same I have not had issues with TTS pullout even with wet shanks from soluble coolant.

Don

[matt487222]

Hmm never knew wd-40 could cause staining to cast iron. Nice to know, Thanks!

[bevinp]

Matt,
I didn't say that WSD40 stains cast iron. It is the dissimilar metal reaction that I think happened when I had WD40 between my steel vice and the cast iron table. Have a look at this link
Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Bevin

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Matt,
I didn't say that WSD40 stains cast iron. It is the dissimilar metal reaction that I think happened when I had WD40 between my steel vice and the cast iron table. Have a look at this link
Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Bevin

That seems highly unlikely, as cast iron and most common steels are very close together on the galvanic scale, hence will have little or no galvanic reaction when placed in contact with each other, especially given the absence of anything approaching an effective electrolyte.

Regards,
Ray L.

[bevinp]

Yes Ray, I know steel and cast iron are close on the galvanic scale, but as I said, when I use CorrosionX there is no marking. But with WD40, there definitely is mild corrosion. The steel/cast iron reaction may be amplified by stray earth currents, I don't know, but the facts are that with all the other variables (coolant, time, possible stray currents, etc) remaining the same, the corrosion definitely occurred with WD40 but definitely not with CorrosionX.

It would be nice to conduct some tests but that would require time and motivation to find the exact cause. But I lack both to be bothered to do so. CorrosionX is my solution, dearer than WD40 but effective.

Bevin
PS. I live in Australia and have no involvement with CorrosionX.

[kevinro]

Yes Ray, I know steel and cast iron are close on the galvanic scale, but as I said, when I use CorrosionX there is no marking. But with WD40, there definitely is mild corrosion. The steel/cast iron reaction may be amplified by stray earth currents, I don't know, but the facts are that with all the other variables (coolant, time, possible stray currents, etc) remaining the same, the corrosion definitely occurred with WD40 but definitely not with CorrosionX.

I have been having exactly this same experience. The WD-40 is what I normally use for cleaning and daily protection. But if I am leaving the machine for more than a week, I go with Corrosion X (on my Tormach, manual mill, and lathe). I have had much better performance and no staining with the Corrosion X. I have switch to it entirely under the vises.

I find that too much Corrosion X can be gooey to clean up if left too long. I left my machinery dormant for about 3-4 months this year (was away this summer). I had applied a little more than I normally do thinking it couldn't hurt to be a little heavy. It took me an extra 20 minutes to clean up. Not sure if it just collected a layer of dust into the oil or some other oxidation effect on the surface. Cleaned up just fine (ironically cleaned off with WD-40!).

[mike sr1]

I use a mixture of corrosion x and kerosene in a spray bottle on my table and vise, about 2 oz of corrosion x to 14 oz of kerosene. I use this mix on the tuned steel pipes I make, gives a bit of rust protection after the kerosene evaporates...

[mountaindew]

The list of habits I am developing has kind of stalled any new or good ideas?

Start up list
Drain air compressor and check filters and lube. (there has to be a better way)
Clean Shop vac filter and empty can. (top ten nasty jobs)
Clean and inspect mill for loose fasteners, wires, airlines, debris, wear or damage. (Like a pre flight on a plane this has saved me money, time and grief and its only been a month. )
Manual lube of z axis with oil can before startup (I have automatic lube system and it could be an hour or more before it's programed to run, being safe)
Clean and inspect vise. Mount and indicate if required and or check fasteners.
Clean tool holder shafts with alcohol and inspect for wear, marks, gouges, slips and grime. Check set screws, collet nuts and chucks. (Again newb, but this has saved me grief a couple times and its only been a month. It takes less then 5 minutes so I do it when compressor is draining, with ear plugs in)
Start computer, mach, power on mill and reference all. Ready to Go.

Also, I have check flood or mist coolant system levels and pump on list, but I don't use any at this time.


Any other habits or practices that I can add?
I want to improve my skills and maintain the tools in the best shape possible.

I read notes that people run a warm up kind of program on some cnc tools, I guess to move all axis to near limits in all directions to verify operation and lube. Is this a good idea?


Thanks for all the help
Lane

[Spinnetti]

I use WD40 to clean and protect fixture, rotary table, vise, and mill table before mounting and during storage. To prevent pull out of TTS tools I clean the interface with alcohol and use Starrett M1 oil which I believe leaves a protective dry film unlike WD40. However flood coolant seems to always be drenching TTS tools anyhow. The best thing I did to prevent pull out was to lubricate the ¾” R8 collet, Bellevue washers, and power draw bar threads with Armite LP- 250 LP-250 & LP-250F Anti-Seize Thread & Sealing Compound

Don

BTW I just redid the head on my '97 Toyota Tacoma and Armite LP-250 works extremely well on the exhaust studs and nuts.

Where do I get the stuff online? Looked and mccmaster and amazon, but lots of options (don't know how to judge one from the other).... I often use WD to clean stuff up, but need something for the collet and spring stack...

Thanks..

[Don Clement]

Where do I get the stuff online? Looked and mccmaster and amazon, but lots of options (don't know how to judge one from the other).... I often use WD to clean stuff up, but need something for the collet and spring stack...

Thanks..

Try: http://www.armitelabs.com/distributors.html

Don

[SomeWhatLost]

silly question, I use either Starrett M1 or WD40 on my mill/tools depending on what/where/when/whatever bottle is closest to me at the time/etc, and it has worked out well...
but there is another oil I use for other things... CLP, it is like super cool, drys nicely, no oily residue, while still protecting the finish, and does a good job cleaning stuff... anyway, has anyone ever tried using CLP on their mill/tools?
and anyone have a place to get CLP cheaply?

[mountaindew]

I picked up some Loctite copper anti seize and put draw bar and tool holder on bi/ weekly check list.
I did notice a difference when I cleaned tt holders with alcohol. They slide in and out more firmly even to the point of power draw bar adjustment.


Also I will look for corrosion x and CLP, see what is available and cost.
I have more and more tools to care for these days so any advise is welcome!
md

[mountaindew]

Another item to list is clean/ lube and inspect edge, center finders.
Or maybe the ones I have are not good quality. anyway I get real close but I see a difference in ease of use and how long it takes to get the number.

What does everyone else use?

Thinking of a haimer zero master type unit to increase accuracy and speed of touch offs and edge finding. Anyone like them or other system?

The cost is so high I will be using what I have for a while. Just want to plan for this in part design.
Lane

[mike sr1]

My personal preference is a coaxial indicator, I usually always indicate off a hole, usually in the center of the part.

This indicator cost me 80 dollars, but if the Z down goes nuts and doesnt stop for some unknown reason, I will only destroy a cheap indicator not an expensive one...... Same goes for a probe.

My Mach/Windows system operates almost flawless, but not quite..

Just my opinion............

[shred]

I'm a big fan of the analog Haimer. New probe tips are available if you crash them, although not very cheap.

[TurboStep]

As Mike says its a matter of personal preference and workflow. I've tried all the methods that I know of and have ended up loving my analog Haimer 3D. Living in Europe I ordered directly from a German distributor. What I saved on the device payed for a couple of replacement tips (I'm on my third tip).
Step