[WOTDesigns]

Go to rustlick's website. They have a colorcoded pdf for each coolant series.

I'll do an review video when it gets here.

I was actually referring to the Tormach's coolant not being for Aluminum. I just bought 6 gallons and loaded the machine (yesterday) with it and if that were the case I would be dumping 27 gallons of coolant today.

Brian
WOT Designs

[shred]

Perhaps a different oil could solve it?? McMaster and my two local suppliers all carry only Mobil way oil.... Hundreds of local shops using it.... I ditched the Kool Mist today.
WOT Designs

Last I ordered some, the McMaster "Generic" Way Oil was the Tormach recommended Premier oil. It seems to have a lot more tackifiers than Vactra #2 does these days.

My Tormach was all stained up before I got it, so I can't speak to that, but cut aluminum comes out ok with either the Premier coolant or Kool Mist as a flood. Parts don't sit in the machine however.

FWIW, the Premier coolant worked pretty well (it does attack the paint on my old machine), but at some point it just decided to quit stopping rust. I switched to Kool Mist flood and that works ok, but is a bit annoying because it's not great anti-rust and evaporates fast enough that I'm adding more several times a day.

[WOTDesigns]

That IS the down side to mcmaster.... No idea what you will actually get. When I have ordered (twice) I got a blue bottle of Mobil Vactra 2. I am flabbergasted that Kool Mist and Vactra 2 stains aluminum only in my shop and not yours. WTF?! Its 100% repeatable. Mist or flood. Add a few drops of Vactra and 6061 aluminum (Kaiser and import) stains cool shades of brown

Brian
WOT Designs

[LeeWay]

Koolmist 77 is all I have ever used or even tried. Been using it for over 7 years now I think.
It has it's pro's and con's like anything.
My reason for not trying something else is because Koolmist ain't broke for my needs.
I add a little more if I need more lubrication.
You can tell the strength or concentrate you have by the color.
I don't need any special pretreatment after it comes off the mill and before powder coating. That is as long as I blow it off with air initially.

The main con is that it is destructive to polycarbonate. That is kind of a plus though. I had intended to use a polycarbonate enclosure on my Torus. I used a shower curtain liner setup instead because of the Koolmist properties or tendencies. The shower curtain liner saved me quite a bit of cash and works very well.

[Don Clement]

Where do you get it Don? R L Stephens?

Brian
WOT Designs

Yes. R.L Stephens Fullerton Machine Tools, Cutting Tools, Cordinate Measuring - RL Stephens Tool and Equipment

Don

[cobrakai]

Not for use on aluminum?! It says "some non-ferrous metals" ... Where have you seen not for aluminum?

Brian
WOT Designs

Sorry I was regurgitating what I saw in 2 places here on the forum. You may want to check into it anyway.

[SpruTormaCam]

I got a gallon of the Premier 600 when I bought my 1100 which worked well for my needs (I machine mostly nonferrous, plastics and a little steel). When I ran out and went to order from Tormach the shipping was more than the coolant. I researched on the web looking for a synthetic with similar properties and performance while being super concentrated so I wouldn't be paying for shipping water.

I ran across EZ-Cool ezkooldirect.com (I think the name has changed several times... EZ-cut, Koolit) and did a test gallon and have been happy with it for the last couple of years. While shipping costs are not a very good reason for picking a product it played a part in me giving this a try. I called the owner and he was very helpful and accommodating. They have a super concentrated version that ships in a cool 5 liter container with a dispensing nozzle that fits in a $12 flat rate box. I see that they are selling the concentrated version (not super concentrated) on eBay:
5 Liter Koolit Synthetic 40 1 Ratio CNC Coolant w Spigot Ships 2 All 50 States | eBay

While the only thing I have to compare it to is the Premier, I'm happy with it. The only issue I'm curious about is if other brands have better performance when tapping. I had some tap breaking issues in aluminum mystery alloys and was wondered if another fluid would have made a difference. I do primarily thread forming when I'm in the shop but after breaking some taps I've been moving to thread milling for long runs when the mill is running unattended.

Also, kind of on the same subject, I ran across a 10% refractometer on Amazon that has worked well for me for under $25:
Amazon.com: 0-10% ATC BRIX REFRACTOMETER 4 Sap, CNC Coolant: Home Improvement

Mark...

[cobrakai]

After researching extensively the TRIM E206 coolant is looking like a really good option.

[shred]

That IS the down side to mcmaster.... No idea what you will actually get. When I have ordered (twice) I got a blue bottle of Mobil Vactra 2. I am flabbergasted that Kool Mist and Vactra 2 stains aluminum only in my shop and not yours. WTF?! Its 100% repeatable. Mist or flood. Add a few drops of Vactra and 6061 aluminum (Kaiser and import) stains cool shades of brown

Brian
WOT Designs

Weird, I've been sent Premier every time I order "Standard Way Oil, ISO Grade 68, SAE Grade 20, 1 Gallon" over the past 3 years.

Thus I've never tried Vactra 2 + KoolMist.

[nitewatchman]

Not for use on aluminum?! It says "some non-ferrous metals" ... Where have you seen not for aluminum?

Brian
WOT Designs

Stains Aluminum brown in my machine. Cut surfaces look like they have had coffee spilled on them. Machining Brass makes the Tormach coolant turn blue green.

Perhaps it the water and local chemicals and minerals.

nitewatchman

[WOTDesigns]

Stains Aluminum brown in my machine. Cut surfaces look like they have had coffee spilled on them. Machining Brass makes the Tormach coolant turn blue green.

Perhaps it the water and local chemicals and minerals.

nitewatchman

Whatever chemical is may be is also in Arrowhead Distilled Water. I used over (30) 2.5 gallon hugs before switching to tap

Brian
WOT Designs

[MRM RCModels]

In going with brasolcut 2000 and ws-5050. Will keep whatever works best.

[MichaelHenry]

I went to the Hangsterfer's site. It says S-500 is an emulsifiable oil. Any reason you chose that over the other options? Also, is this patina you're referring to a protective layer or is it actually corrosion?

I picked the S-500 based on random Internet use reports. I'm not ready to call the patina it leaves a "protective layer" but it does clean up pretty well with WD-40 and some fine steel wool.

BTW, I started using Tormach's Fog Buster a while back and was using their Premier 600 coolant for that. I was not completely happy with the way that worked, especially with threading small holes and fine pitches and just switched to the Hangsterfer S-500 as a mist coolant. It's only been a few hours but it seems to work a lot better for me than the Premier 600. This observation is based solely on use with 6061 aluminum.

Mike

[MichaelHenry]

I was thinking that a silver wire with about ~10DCV in the coolant tank might across it would produce an electro-colloidal silver solution which is a natural antimicrobial and prevent the smell in a DIY coolant.

Don

FWIW, I've never had a microbial smell with Hangsterfer S-500, even the old batch I drained out a year ago and that has been "drying out" in a stagnant 5-gal bucket ever since. For better or worse, I use 18-meg ohm water from the lab where I work for dilution.

Mike

[Don Clement]

Antibacterial effects of Silver

Don

[MichaelHenry]

Silver does have interesting anti-microbial properties, but why not just add it as a salt? That would seem to be easier to deal with than electrolysis but maybe the salts are more expensive than pure silver on a silver basis.

If odor were a problem, bubbling air into the sump with an aquarium aeration pump might be a good solution, too. I'm told that most of the odors come from an anearobic sump, possibly from sulfur compounds.

[cobrakai]

I found great information here: Technical Articles - Brochures - Master Chemical Corporation.

Their E206 recommend mixing with DI or RO water which takes a lot of controversy out since there is so much variance in tap water.

I'll let you guys know how this stuff works out. My only maintenance plan is skimming the tramp oil and maybe getting an aerator. I also might just turn the pump on occasionally and let it cycle for a little while. I'll probably mix it at 7% concentration.

[Steve Seebold]

I use Blasocut 2000 Universal from Swisslube. I get it from Pacific Industrial supply in Santa Ana. 714-540-7122.

I have used Blasocut since about 1995

[UniqueMachining]

I've used Blasocut 2000-CF for years. The "CF" is recommended if you cut primarily aluminum as it does not contain chlorine.
No staining, objectionable odours or rust issues. When I asked a number of local shops what they recommended, Blasocut was the unanimous choice. 7% Initial mix with 2% top up. Google "Blasocut 2000 Msds

John

[cobrakai]

Okay guys I mixed up 5 gallons of this TRIM E206 coolant. It doesn't smell bad, a bit chemically but nothing really. I have no skin reaction to it, it's just oily and hard to get off. It works extremely well - I am getting a great surface finish and there is zero chip welding.

My next question is... I just ran this thing and made a part. Coolant is everywhere on my bed and in the base of my mill. It's pretty level, but there is about 1/8" of standing coolant in the base. Most of it drained off the bed but some is still sitting on there and on my vise. Is it okay to just leave it there? How long do I have? Any tips for cleaning up after milling? I'm planning on brushing most of the coolant toward the drain, then vacuuming up the chips, and just leaving the remaining coolant.

Thanks! Now to buy a refractometer and figure out how to tell how much coolant is in my sump...