[HelicopterJohn]

Hi,

Man, I haven't visited this thread in a while and man you have made a lot of progress. It really looks and runs nice.

Mike, sure designed a really nice CNC Router. If I ever decide to build one it would be one of his designs.

I am sure it will produce some really nice parts for you.

John

[roundrocktom]

e_stop upgrade

Aluminum end panel (painted black) is 1/4" thick. This was a quick a dirty template for drilling (I clamped the guide, then used a transfer punch to make the drill locations). So it is now getting put to good use as the 1.5" x 1.5" pattern fits the end plate nicely. I had to "thin down" the back side of the jack and switch to only 1/8" thick. Simple pocket job on the router!

Template has eight holes. I used four bolts to bolt in place, plastic hides the other holes.

The plastic was engraved earlier, but my metal plate was shorter than I thought, so I trimmed it. This is building with what you have to make it as quick as possible. I might go back later and change it, but functional for now.

SWITCH - Normally Closed (when pulled out). When you push it, it opens the connection. This connected between the G540 - pin #10 terminal and ground.

Honeywell part number 87841 - About $19. It is too large to fit between space inside the 3060, hence mounted lower.

087941 08 Honeywell / Hobbs | Mouser

Z probe jack. Gecko G540 - pin3 INPUT3 (pin12 DB25). I had stereo jack and plug, mono would work fine.

Photo of Strain relief. Cushioned Adel clamps.Piece of 4130 steel. 5/16" carriage bolt is sticking out out from under the 3060 rail, simple to bolt the strain relief in place this way

Note, I'm using up some surplus & new stuff, so the Kronos KRMx02 sequel book doesn't follow what I am doing at all. If you are new to electrical and mechanical stuff then purchase the upgrade book at follow it exactly. If you have a bunch of "junk" (i.e. I'm over 50 and have tossed stuff into a one day CNC box, then use it up! )

I'm just trying to pass along thoughts/idea's at this point to help out someone else scratching their head with "how do I do this?"

[roundrocktom]

Few updates.

My "electronics housing" is from any and all scrap around the shop. I bought a new air filter from Autozone, other wise it is reuse left over material. Hence no deminsions. The Metal mount is a lid from a scrapped computer (heavy steel). The "rider" was an adder as the Super PID arrive later (I had used the mouting hole from the original, only to discover Super PID 2 was larger. Simple to modify.

The black rubber isolators to reduce vibration to the electronics.

Power strip allows for simple shut off.


Metal objects are 2" and 5" diameter steel from the machine shop. Handy weigts.


Note sizing mentioned was Super PID. Super PID 2 is larger! Had to redrill holes, but side plate made that job simple.



Cutting some scrap smoked lexan (rest is my airplane skylight). Grinder with a thin cut off blade, and 3/4" plywood guide make quick work of cutting Plexi or Lexan.


Small Airfilter from Autozone. Fram AF3916.


Plexiglass drill bits (notice taper. You can grind a zero rake on a standard drill bit, too.

[roundrocktom]

Homing Switches. I did the "eyeball" mount, and made the micro switch mount dual function as hard stop for X & Y. Z home is at top, and redid after breaking the switch the first time. Oops.

[roundrocktom]

Bosch 1617 Wiring.

On my Bosch Router it was a simple "remove speed control" and plug bit fat wire into the location seen (goes to windings).




Simple Black and White paint (thanks to my wife):
Wipe everything down with alcohol. Nail polish, few coats.


Trial Fit of sensor.


Super PID:


Note router will NOT power on until a jumper from "run" to ground is installed.
Note ground wire from 5V supply also ties to G540 Ground Wire.


Still a work in progress.

[roundrocktom]

Took a little head scratching to get the Router Control worked out.

MACH3 - G540 - SUPER PID2


Router Speed control with MACH3, G540, SuperPID2
Wire according the SUPER PID2 Instructions.
Tach is optional, but I learned a simple wire saves headaches!


Hardware Hookup from G540 to Super PID2

TACH - Input #4 (Gecko #4)
RUN - Output 1 (Gecko #5)

PWM Signals - PWM Gecko 7, 8, 9

When I first hooked everything up my router was at a constant 5,000 rpm (slowest speed by default).
I had read TACH wasn't needed, but had stumbled into the spindle calibration screen and really messed
stuff up. Add the Tach, and used "INDEX" (single pulse per rpm)

MACH3 Settings:

Router ON/OFF
Ports and Pins: Output Signals
Output #1 Enabled, Port #1, Pin 17

Tach Input:
MACH3 Ports and Pins: Input
INDEX - Enable. Port #1. Pin 13


PWM to Super PID2 Output:
MACH3 Ports and Pins: Motor Outputs
SPINDLE - Enable Pin 14

MACH3 Ports and Pins: Spindle Setup:
Relay Control: Disable

Motor Control:
check: Use Spindle Motor Output
check: PWM Control
leave open: Step/Dir Motor

PWM Base Freq: 50
Minimum PWM: 0 (super pid doesn't allow router to go below 5000rpm)

General Parameters:
5 second delay for spin up and spin down

Spindle Pulley: Just open one and set Max Speed to 30000 rpm (my router maxed out at 28,500)



Wire, yes I used little sections of color coded heat shrink to keep wiring straight as I had 16 gauge
RED, BLACK, and GREEN on hand. All three together with big blue are PWM, Red with white is TACH,
Red with Yellow is RUN.

Hopefully this will help someone out.

[roundrocktom]

Just updated photos, stand up desk has built in computer storage with forced air cooling:

[roundrocktom]

For those with sharp eyes will notice I added a 1530 section of 8020 to the front of my table. I had originally flipped the head around so the router can cut beyond the table surface. This allows dovetail joints to be cut on edges. Catch is the MDF boards will sage just a little, so added the 1530 to support the MDF, and edge for clamping when doing dovetail work.

Top sacrificial board is 1" MDF. Specialty lumber store stocks them in 4' x 8' sizing, just remember to have it cut to 60".

Clean up the surface with a planning bit (I have a 2", but 1.5" would work)
Amazon.com: Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2" Cutting Diameter: Home Improvement

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi,

Well, you have done a very nice build. I am sure Michael will put a link to your build on his Website. A friend of mine built a home made router and he installed a wood turning lathe on the front end of the table that he has hooked up to his 4th Axis. He has cut gears and done round lithoplanes which were pretty impressive.

Now for the fun stuff, cutting parts.

ENJOY and thanks for sharing.

John

[Don C]

Nice machine, is the rails for v wheels or did you use bearings. I have a prt shopbot converted to Mach and using the same drives. I didn't think it would run as good as it does. Again nice machine and thinks for sharing.
Don

[roundrocktom]

Thanks guys.

Don, I used bearings. CNCRouterParts Linear Carriage
Extended Linear Carriage with ABEC 7 Bearings - CRP102-00 | CNCRouterParts

[Don C]

I like that idea, I have one router which I made with v-wheels that works well and a shopbot PRT that has a rounded rail that I don't like as much. I had to machine the v rails on my mill and that was a pain. Does your bearings have a concentric to adjust the tightness?
Thanks
Don

[roundrocktom]

Update.... almost a year later, still cutting wood and aluminum. Machine progress never stops, but still a decent home shop machine.

Captured a video with a 1/4" Melin milling machine carbide bit. I like those, as the end is a 90 degree V. So you can drill 1/4" holes, machine a 45 bevel around the part, and then cut out the part.

I had added some 0.050 tabs to the design, catch is the "V" cutter means you need to go an additional 0.167" into your waste board. For aluminum cutting normally I'd have an one inch thick aluminum fixture plate with the items bolted solidly to it. The part I'm cutting out is a one off part, so I did the "oh, just clamp it to MDF". Almost destroyed the part!

Towards the end, the "V" has started to cut through the aluminum, so what WD40 is sucked into the MDF.. cutter running a little dry. Air to blow the chips, WD40 to keep the cutter from building up aluminum on edge. You'll hear the pitch of the cutting change.

6061-T 0.500" thick. 70 ipm and 17000 rpm on the router.

2024 & 7075 are 'harder aluminum' and easier to run at 100 ipm and 25,000 rpm speeds.

You have to move fast with air and wd40, least hear that horrible snapped $25 carbide bits. Most depth for slotting I recommend is 2x the cutter width. Feed and rpm has to be in a a sweet spot, too slow or too fast is not good!

CNCCookbook's Speeds and Feeds has been constantly updated, highly recommended with my aggressive work.

Precision Bits sells precision collets. Inspecting the router, detail cleaning, precision bearings, and TIR is 0.000 4". (so 0.000 2 error). Out of the box router you might see 0.004" error. Cutting wood, you'll never notice. Start running 25000 rpm at 100 ipm.... that bit is snapped and gone before you hit the "E-stop".

I really need flood coolant, or a large vortex air chiller (but that needs 25cfm air flow!), but with an air gun, lots of WD40, CNC does a nice job.

Youtube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYhhqex0MbI

Photo's show the piece -- note the uh oh as I cut away the tabs by accident (tip of the V" cutter). Side profile. Then a little clean up on my 1930 vintage die filer.