Hi can any body tell about technique he did for z axis?
hear is video link
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTyGa0pPIl0&list=UUPBrAtsL72ni0R5uu-0y__g]GALEKS G10 image cnc engraving machine - YouTube[/ame]
Hi can any body tell about technique he did for z axis?
hear is video link
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTyGa0pPIl0&list=UUPBrAtsL72ni0R5uu-0y__g]GALEKS G10 image cnc engraving machine - YouTube[/ame]
Let's all calm down a bit and resume sharing some dxf files (group)
A styrofoam or EPP cactus with chocolate bar thorns:
And a cutting board:
The files: dxf.zip
Christian
My CAM Software and CNC Controller: www.estlcam.com
Markus, I will have a look ans see if I have a picture, if I don't it will be somewhere in the 267 pages and 3200 odd posts.
Regards
Eric
Markus, I found them!
Eric
[QUOTE=turkazer;1223167]Hi can any body tell about technique he did for z axis?
thats awasome ! i would like to know that myself it looks like an angled spindle that is attached to a stepper or servo that rotates the whole spindle very slightly to give the Z movment for the engraving bit which looks like it also is a specialized bit..but i may be wrong
and i think you would need special software as well
i am curoius now so will write the company and see if they are willing to shed some light and report back
There looks to be no Z axis movement as we know it (straight up and down) so they tilt the Z instead giving them a z axis of sorts. At least thats the way I see it
Hi,
I think the pivoted spindle has 2 advantages:
- the grinder bit touches the workpiece only with its fast outer circumference and not with the basically just scraping center. This is much more effective and also reduces wear significantly...
- I'm also pretty sure that the whole thing is spring loaded -> makes sure that the grinder bit gets reliable contact to the workpiece but only with little and constant force.
The latter would also be able with a normal Z-Axis - but more complicated.
Christian
My CAM Software and CNC Controller: www.estlcam.com
i am thinking that there is some belt driven mechanisim behind the spindle that acts to turn..or to give a sort of Z axis wobble if that make sense.?.to engrave the picture the bit must have some sort of computer controlled up and down movement to make the 3d dimension that creates the image so just pivoting the spindle with a spring load on it would perhaps not achieve this.. this is why i thought maybe the whole spindle sort of wobbles in Z by means of a belt driven by a stepper or servo to get that movement it would only work for tiny Z movements though so very shallow engraving like this but would not work for deep engraving due to distortion of the image...i could be totally wrong here but thats what my brain is telling me . if thats not how they are doing it ..its a cool idea anyway and i might try making one to see what it can do...not having to wait for Z screws to turn could speed up an engraving process by a ton yes ? hmmmn interesting stuff..opens a whole new dimesnion of thought here
i wonder if i cut a very light hull stucture for a steampunk style boat from say basswood
and used that method to skin it i could put a rubberband powered prop in it
and make some sails and wings and other gizmos on it
how cool would that be
i am going to give it a try
what type of reward did you have in mind
Hello all,
I have been using 4.75mm lauan plywood to cut wooden puzzles from. But sometimes, it will peel a little veneer from the face when I cut. I have been using an upcut bit and I guess that is what is causing it, but it only happens occasionally. Is there a way to prep the stock to help reduce it from happening? Or do I just need to move to a downcut bit?
When I get a peel, it is more like an area that didn't adhere well. Would an iron on a cotton steam setting heat it enough to make the glue underneath heat up to stick it, or is it just a waste of time? It drives me nuts to have to lay out just two or three pieces to recut to replace those that pealed in a 45 piece puzzle.
Joe
Fabrythrash now is here ..
a brand new pretty good cnczone fellow !
I'm ten thousend miles from quite all of yours ... I'm pretty sure ...
I've readed all the post from the beginning of this thread... I've understood quite all the discussions here you guys.. even if I'm not part of Yours ..
but somethin don't seems go well ..
It tooks me about 2 weeks .. :-) more than 250 posts and so on ..with all the discussions .. :-)
Seems someone pretty good it's not happy here .. more than one
Anyway .. due to the fact that I've downloaded too much .. posteds anything ... but learned really a lot ..
I'll need to start with a re-post just because I need to understand if I'm in the right direction ... with softwares and dimensions
So I'll start with a re-post D-Torxo-Cat completely revisited.
Welcome To the forum Fabrythrash. Yeah there have been some good times and some bad times here. HOpefully that is over. This is a great place to learn and some great guys to give help and to answer all you questions (should you have any).
Chuck
Fabrythrash
In the text on your picture it says you said that you have the DFX of these pics. If so would you post them also as it is very hard to make one from your picture. Or if you could post a nice clear 2 or 3 meg picture, that would be good.
Larry
Hi,
I am looking for a cow 3d puzzle
If someone has it let me know thank you
try here for a free one
CNC Mentor.com: | Blog | Docs | New Doc
or here for a bought one with a nice assembly guide DXF Projects & Patterns for CNC lasers Routers Scrollsaws