[riverrat]

Anyone?

[fordav11]

you have to understand these things are not simple. even something as old as a 6 series has complicated electronics and electrics as well as electromechanical components and mechanical components all working in harmony. if the problem is not known and documented there is no easy fix. each problem on a machine has to be diagnosed on it's own. if you don't want to get a service guy in then the only solution for unskilled person is to swap boards/parts in some kind of calculated order (power supply then sub PCBs then main PCB etc) until something happens and it starts working or you blow it up or it catches fire or you electrocute yourself (whichever comes first ;-)
if you changed power supply and main pcb and it's still not powering up but you have power there you may want to consider changing the ROM board or bubble memory board or one of the other sub boards. the ROM board contains the software that makes it work and without system software it can appear 'dead'. if it is a system software issue someone with a working knowledge of electronics and microcomputer systems can diagnose it easily but without knowledge and equipment the easiest way is to change parts.
one other thing to consider is was your new main PCB tested working? if yes you may need to swap any of the socketed chips from your old board to the new one to keep the software revisions paired with other software on the ROM board.

[riverrat]

you have to understand these things are not simple. even something as old as a 6 series has complicated electronics and electrics as well as electromechanical components and mechanical components all working in harmony. if the problem is not known and documented there is no easy fix. each problem on a machine has to be diagnosed on it's own. if you don't want to get a service guy in then the only solution for unskilled person is to swap boards/parts in some kind of calculated order (power supply then sub PCBs then main PCB etc) until something happens and it starts working or you blow it up or it catches fire or you electrocute yourself (whichever comes first ;-)
if you changed power supply and main pcb and it's still not powering up but you have power there you may want to consider changing the ROM board or bubble memory board or one of the other sub boards. the ROM board contains the software that makes it work and without system software it can appear 'dead'. if it is a system software issue someone with a working knowledge of electronics and microcomputer systems can diagnose it easily but without knowledge and equipment the easiest way is to change parts.
one other thing to consider is was your new main PCB tested working? if yes you may need to swap any of the socketed chips from your old board to the new one to keep the software revisions paired with other software on the ROM board.

I totally understand and agree with what you are saying. However, I am far from unskilled when it comes to electrical and electronics. My hope was someone with more experience with a 6m could tell me a way to check the boards individually without throwing money "boards" at the problem. I do not like doing that, makes me feel like a moron if I'm wrong and gets expensive quick.

[tc429]

Nope,

It's not just video, I can't jog the axis or home the machine.
How can I isolate this problem without throwing another card at it?

Are the drives clicking on?

You might look in the maint book on what keys to hold to get into IPL mode, and even if no video, try selecting whatever the book says for memory test, just to see if the LEDs start blinking- that would at least hint if your boards live/ videos dead...

[alexfanuc]

I totally understand and agree with what you are saying. However, I am far from unskilled when it comes to electrical and electronics. My hope was someone with more experience with a 6m could tell me a way to check the boards individually without throwing money "boards" at the problem. I do not like doing that, makes me feel like a moron if I'm wrong and gets expensive quick.

If you are sure the LCD is fine, I would suggest to replace the CRTC Puncher pcb. Also, just checking, about the door cabinet swicth. If the door at the cabinet is open the control will not power on.
Alex

[riverrat]

Are the drives clicking on?

You might look in the maint book on what keys to hold to get into IPL mode, and even if no video, try selecting whatever the book says for memory test, just to see if the LEDs start blinking- that would at least hint if your boards live/ videos dead...

Welp, I left the machine powered up and told an operator if he sees anything on the scree to write it down. He gave me a piece of paper that said "you suck" on it.

Later in the day he brought me another piece of paper that had real data. He said the screen showed a message for about a minute then went blank. I don't have it with me it's on my desk, off of the top of my head it went like this.

fifo ready, that tells me those chips are good on the master pcb.
ram check ok, probably wrong on this one its been a few hours.

There was one more plus two codes that I looked for briefly before time to go home. I'll post them up first thing in the morning when I have it in front of me.

In my mind this is looking like a rom problem, but I've been wrong before.

[riverrat]

If you are sure the LCD is fine, I would suggest to replace the CRTC Puncher pcb. Also, just checking, about the door cabinet swicth. If the door at the cabinet is open the control will not power on.
Alex

The thing doesn't have a panel interlock, or a real e-stop,,,crazy.
That crtc puncher is on my hit list, saw that board and a rom board on ebay pretty cheap.

This sucks, the parameters for this machine were not backed up.

[tc429]

Welp, I left the machine powered up and told an operator if he sees anything on the scree to write it down. He gave me a piece of paper that said "you suck" on it.

Later in the day he brought me another piece of paper that had real data. He said the screen showed a message for about a minute then went blank. I don't have it with me it's on my desk, off of the top of my head it went like this.

fifo ready, that tells me those chips are good on the master pcb.
ram check ok, probably wrong on this one its been a few hours.

There was one more plus two codes that I looked for briefly before time to go home. I'll post them up first thing in the morning when I have it in front of me.

In my mind this is looking like a rom problem, but I've been wrong before.

Oh boy... So it's not "dead" but brain dead...
Something worth a look, get a flashlight and look closely at your socketed roms ,out of a couple hundred new controls, twice I've seen pins bent/rolled under from the factory...one was on a mill in our little machine shop, KNOW it was virgin, ran several years before acting up. Unlikely, but maybe...

Kinda sounds like a noisy 5 volts/ bad clock/ bad CPU, who knows...but kinda scary. Check your +5 with a scope, if you aint got one, just check for AC with a decent meter. Shouldn't be much at all... Bad electrolytic caps can fail to filter out switching supply 'noise' and really screw stuff up. Be sure the ground screw that goes thru the corner trace of the master to the frame is in there too...they are sometimes left out of new/ replaced boards, they don't like that most of the time...

[riverrat]

Oh boy... So it's not "dead" but brain dead...
Something worth a look, get a flashlight and look closely at your socketed roms ,out of a couple hundred new controls, twice I've seen pins bent/rolled under from the factory...one was on a mill in our little machine shop, KNOW it was virgin, ran several years before acting up. Unlikely, but maybe...

Kinda sounds like a noisy 5 volts/ bad clock/ bad CPU, who knows...but kinda scary. Check your +5 with a scope, if you aint got one, just check for AC with a decent meter. Shouldn't be much at all... Bad electrolytic caps can fail to filter out switching supply 'noise' and really screw stuff up. Be sure the ground screw that goes thru the corner trace of the master to the frame is in there too...they are sometimes left out of new/ replaced boards, they don't like that most of the time...

No scope, but I have a really good fluke. I'll check for frequency in the +5.
Thanks, I didn't think of that.

The video was acting weird before the monitor crapped out, would get really unstable to the point where it was unreadable. Damn, back to the crtc card.

[Al_The_Man]

Does this 6 have Bubble memory?
Al.

[riverrat]

Does this 6 have Bubble memory?
Al.

If it does the japanese hid it in a really good spot.

Dean

[tc429]

bubble board has metal shields covering the 'devices', will be tagged BMU- something on the edge...it will either have that, or a 'tulip' ram card (those are made by 'memoryman' in here, they are great upgrades, we have a couple at work)

[riverrat]

here are all of the messages it threw.

work ram ok
fifo ready
charachter
ram ok

then these two
E09-001C
E09-002

I checked the +5, my meter says its flat dc 4.98v.

[riverrat]

Yes it does have a bmu, for some reason last night I was
thinking that board had RAM printed on it.

[fordav11]

if you get anything on the screen the crtc board is ok. plus the POST tells us that the main board and ROM board are also good. I remember the last final message was about bubble memory then it would come up with XYZ position.
So maybe your bubble memory board is bad. I also remember it's possible to 'format' the bubble memory board so maybe that's all you need to do?
check this post for details...
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/fanuc/...at_bubble.html

note you will lose your parameters if you do that. if the BMU is suspected it may be better to buy the replacement Tulip BMU because it has the ability to copy the parameters from an old BMU by chaining it with a cable (assuming the old BMU is in some kind of working condition to allow this to be successful).

the errors you have may be listed in the 6 series maintenance manual. Do you have the maintenance manual?
if not maybe someone here with a 6 series maintenance manual can have a look through it.....

[alexfanuc]

Are you getting something on the screen after you replaced the master pcb? or is it the same problem?(No video)
If you are getting something in the screen then I would not replace the CRTC pcb,. Did you check the jumpers on the master pcb? Did you check if there were some IC chips missing in the new master pcb? If you are not sure, I would return the original master pcb and see if the problems is the same.
Regards
Alex