[BobWarfield]

no it's for the dog and it's high enough for him, people that can walk thru lift the lever to go out when it's in the closed position.
my chair can't fit thru the door.
Hoss

Hoss, that's really cool. I'd love to have something similar that could also recognize an RFID or similar on the dog's collars. I don't know if they'd be too scared of it, but it'd be nice if they could go in and out at will.

Cheers,

BW

[hoss2006]

yeah, researching this I looked at some electronic dog doors on ebay that have pressure pads or rfid collars that auto open the door but they are still pricy and my little guy is jumpy.
He wouldn't even go thru the screen door flap if it blocked the hole.
Even with this when the relay clicks in the x10 module he goes running.
I let the door open from the livingroom then tell him to go outside and he nervously does it.
When he comes back into the house I close the door.
It's working out fine for our situation.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

something like this.
New Automatic Pet Door 12 X 16 Electronic Dog and Cat | eBay
Hoss

[Madda]

Hoss,

What do you think is better: Rostock Delta with acrylic parts or wood parts? Also, is there a big difference between RAMBo boards and ramps 1.4?

I planned converting BF20 at first but first I might try 3D printers.

[hoss2006]

I wouldn't build any printer out of acrylic, those were the weakest parts on my prusa which
chipped and cracked apart from the vibrations in a month.
Why I replaced them in ally.
Just saw a wood rostock on thingiverse.
Haven't looked at rambo boards to offer an opinion.
Hoss

[Madda]

But do you also think that wood is weak for the job?

I thought getting one from indiegogo.

[hoss2006]

depends on the wood.
Drew's Rostock variant by Ellindsey - Thingiverse
any nice hardwood.
we aren't talking about needing super precision here like for milling, it's why some printers are made of plywood.
Hoss

[Fastest1]

Interesting issue in regards to the acrylic and fatigue. I would think aluminum would suffer the same issue over time. Wood might be a very good material for absorbing or dealing with the vibration.

[hoss2006]

acrylic failed in one month, aluminum has no sign of fatigue in over 7 months.
an acrylic airplane wouldn't last long but aluminum ones do very well.
Hoss

[ImagineRobots]

A little progress update on the Rostock delta printer.

Hoss,

What material did you print the Rostock parts out of (ABS or PLA)?

Also, anyone know a quick way to tell if a filament is ABS or PLA before loading into a printer (like a match test, etc.)?

thx

[hoss2006]

I used pla.
That's how i test them, burning pla smells a little sweet like kettlecorn and abs smells like plastic.
Hoss

[LeeWay]

A short piece of abs is generally fairly plyable.
Pla is stiffer and prone to snapping when bent.

[ImagineRobots]

A short piece of abs is generally fairly plyable.
Pla is stiffer and prone to snapping when bent.

Thanks. Both the snap and match test worked. I think I prefer the snap test to avoid the smell of nasty burnt ABS.

[hoss2006]

Another way is to use a silver sharpie or a marker on a piece of tape and mark abs or pla on the spool when you get it.
A zip tie tag works well for free spools too.
Hoss

[ImagineRobots]

Another way is to use a silver sharpie or a marker on a piece of tape and mark abs or pla on the spool when you get it.
A zip tie tag works well for free spools too.
Hoss

Yep, thinking I could memorize what the spools were didn't work 5 months later. Reminds me of buying electrical hook up wire from Harbor Freight with no wire markings and guessing the gauge later on.

[hoss2006]

yep, I have to leave notes on everything anymore just to make sure I don't forget.
Hoss

[slipery]

Hi,

[slipery]

Hi,
Only found this thread last night. Hoss you are prolific and if the old university addage of "publish or perish" is to be believed you will be around for a long time yet. What a tremendous effort.
Excuse me I havent had a chance to read all 80 pages yet (keep getting side tracked by all the fantastic information). I was up till 5am this morning reading some of it. I notice you started out with both the H! and the prusa and now looking at the rostock
I really want to make one of these but which one. I really appreciste the work that you have done in the past here on mills and so really value your input.
For a rank newbie to 3 d printing and given your experience with CNC in general and also now in 3d printing, which printer do you think I should make. (looking for a complete kit) I know this is a very general question but do you think the prusa is still a good machine or should I wait for the kit for the rostock. I notice that you have giiven the idea of the H1 away at this time. (The rostock kit looks simpler but more expensive? )
I have had a look at 3ders.org price list that you spoke of back in February. Do you think this list is up to date?

Thanks again for all the great information
Cheers

[hoss2006]

3ders says that page was last updated aug. 6 so not very up to date with all the new machines being built.
Have a look at the ORD bot, it looks real simple to build.
There's a thread here with a fellow Aussie building one.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/3d_pri...ot_hadron.html
The price is pretty good too.
Hoss

[diyengineer]

yep, I have to leave notes on everything anymore just to make sure I don't forget.
Hoss

I agree. Sometimes when i look back on my notes, i can't understand what the heck i meant lol. I think from now on i want to start taking notes and a short web clip like recording like the guy off of Avatar haha.