[Jackal66]

There are a lot of pics of machines & wiring, but no pics of where the cables & wires exit the cabinet.

The multi-pin panel mount plugs look good. They just caused a lot of problems on my Hurco, by working loose & corroded connections.

My thinking is perhaps a grommet through the panel and then have a external box with another grommet on the bottom for the cable to come through.

Maybe this will work the same way a weather-head connector to a house works.

There are some outdoor plug-in covers, for home use, that might do what I am wanting.

Before anything, it would be nice to see what some of the people here have done.

There are probably some real great, yet simple ideas that make us want to kick ourselves.

Thanks in advance,

JAckal:cheers:

[Al_The_Man]

As a general rule, the main reason for cable disconnects entering an enclosure is for portability where the machine has to be shipped in pieces, if it is one unit or to remain in one place then 1/2" conduit strain reliefs are commonly used, these are ordered with the right size rubber compression grommet at the time of order, they take from 1/4" to around 1/2" dia cables, you can obtain these from any electrical supply house, it is handy if you have access to a K.O. cutter to make the holes, these are a compression punch that goes from 1/2" to about 2" conduit size and make short work of making the right size holes.
Al.

[Huckmeat]

My BOSSV had the rubber grommet strain reliefs, and they work great.

However, when I rewired it and gutted the electronics, I went with 1/2" flexible metal conduit, from the motor or switch housing to the cabinet (both already had 1/2" threads/knockouts.) The conduit makes it easy to pull wires through and offers great protection.

[Al_The_Man]

However, when I rewired it and gutted the electronics, I went with 1/2" flexible metal conduit, from the motor or switch housing to the cabinet (both already had 1/2" threads/knockouts.) The conduit makes it easy to pull wires through and offers great protection.

Yes, that too!
You can get it in metallic or non-metallic liquid seal.
You can also get super flex if it is fed to something constantly in motion.
Al.

[BobWarfield]

Don't have a picture handy of the finished panel, but here is a work in progress as I was testing the connections:



Those are microphone connectors. They seal pretty well and have plenty of connections. The panel was engraved with a spot drill. Spots and center drills both make decent engravers in a pinch.

Cheers,

BW

[Jackal66]

Guys,

Thanks for all of the info. I have some metal flex conduit. It isn't weatherproof, though.

Bob W,

How will you seal that panel to the enclosure? A gasket or maybe a fine bead of silicone?

By the way, you have a fantastic site CNC Cookbook: Blog.

It has been a lot of help and gives great ideas.

JAckal :cheers:

[BobWarfield]

Jackal, I didn't bother with sealing. The panel is not in a location where it is likely to get splashed by anything, so there is just an overlap of the panel to the cutout.

If I were worried about it, I would probably use some gasketing cement of some kind. I'm pretty shy about plain silicone RTV in the shop--the fumes corrode the heck out of anything they come in contact with. But there are variants that don't have corrosive fumes (that vinegar smell we all know and hate!).

Best,

BW

[Al_The_Man]

Keep in mind that any connector if it will not really be needed for future moving of the machine is just another source of potential contact problems, the up side though is if you have to swap motors encoders etc for diagnostic purposes.
Al.

[Jackal66]

Yeah,

I've had too much trouble with the factory connectors. These might be nice for something else, like on a trailer connector.

After the hassle on the Hurco factory connectors. I want straight thru cables.

JAckal

[diyengineer]

Yeah,

I've had too much trouble with the factory connectors. These might be nice for something else, like on a trailer connector.

After the hassle on the Hurco factory connectors. I want straight thru cables.

JAckal

Straight through is definitely the safest option. No problems here though, these suckers are tough!

[Iron-Man]

If you have the patience, Tyco connectors are excellent.
TE CONNECTIVITY | 211400-1 | CPC Series 1 Reverse Free Hanging Plug 7 Position Circular Plastic Connector - Future Electronics

Hope this helps,

Iron-Man

[Jackal66]

I'll keep those in mind for other electronic projects.

I 'm thinking about an external box that will protect the cables coming out of the cabinet.

It works like the outdoor weatherproof covers that people use on their house, so they can have something plugged in, and it's weatherproof.

Where the cables exit my cabinet, if something fell ie: wrench, hold down clamp,vise handle, etc., it would break the connector off. It is in an area where coolant will drip and oil will seep.

There will be a drawing in a few days.

Thanks for all of the ideas.

JAckal:cheers: