[HereinCS]

Thanks for everyone's help. I'm showing off my first build. Without you guys I still won't know what an x axis is. This is my Darth Vader mini router. Named so because of its some what sinister black appearance. Now waiting for a couple of custom stepper motors from China and we should be up and running.

My plan is to build a 1.2m x 2m router. That's still in the works. It's quite expensive so I build this from all the scrap pieces lying around. Hopefully, it will give me a better understanding of the build and operational process so that my big router and my mill build will go a bit smoother.

[rlwoodjr]

Looks fantastic! I like the black.

[HereinCS]

Thanks. I have a Zen spindle coming. I'm hoping to use it with the same 48v power supply that I'll use for the Gecko g540/stepper motors. Can some one suggest a dc relay that would work with this set up?

[HereinCS]

Finally got the stepper motors and zen motor mounted. The 4th axis trunion table just arrived and will be the last step on the machine itself.

Next will be the electronics. I'll definitely need lots of help.

[neurofen]

nice machine dude

[CNC Lurker]

I'll be interested in seeing a vid of some 4th axis work.

[HereinCS]

I'm still some time away from a fully functioning table. Waiting for my friend machinist to help mount the trunion table, then the stand/electronics still have to go in. There is a youtube video of the table [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMaZ6NlB574"]YouTube - New CNC 4th axis Trunnion Table made by HighTechSystems LLC[/nomedia].

[HereinCS]

Most of the panels and electronics are in. Just waiting for a temperature, voltage display, a pmw speed controller then I'm ready to assemble. I do have a question regarding limit switches. I have the one picture below. 2 to each x,y,z axis. First question, does anyone have a schematic that show how to hook these up? I've never seen one like this. Secondly, I have 2 on each axis. Is that how it's done? I see on the g540 schematics that there are only one for each axis.

[CarveOne]

pminmo.com is a good reference site for many things CNC. On the right side of the home page is a list of articles on that site that you will find useful. The article on home and limit switches is here. There are many ways to wire and configure them. Normally closed is the way most people use the switches, though there are differing opinions about it.

CarveOne

[cnctoolman]

I dont know what you are planning on cutting, but I believe you are going to be a little dissapointed with the spindle. A drill chuck just does not offer the rigidity needed to do milling. Yes people have gotten away with with it, but.. be prepared.

[HereinCS]

Well, originally I was going to build a large router. I still am. But I found that due to the lack of experience, I was making too many mistakes. So I figured that I'd build a smaller one simply as a learning exercise. This router is made of mostly scraps that I have from the mistakes that I made in purchasing for the larger router, if that made any sense. At the same time, my wife expressed that she wanted to build miniature furniture models so I decided to make this a really nice router for her, while still retaining my goal, with is to learn how to build and operate these things. She will primary cut wood and plastic so I figure the Zen spindle is enough. If not, I already have Colt router that I can swap in for her.

My 4 x 6, 5 axis router is still coming along. Primarily 8020 for frame, doughty drive, servos, etc....maybe a year from now.

[HereinCS]

Finally finished my machine...except for the limit switches. I have no idea how to run it though. Just bought a license of Mach3. Is there a step by step on what to do to start cutting? My motors are working fine, but I'm stuck on calibrating distance/turn.

[adprinter]

It can be somewhat overwhelming, with so much to learn about Mach. But if you are already to the point of having tuned your motors, then it sounds like you off to a good start. What I did, when initially calibrating the X,Y, and Z axis was to print out a 2"x2" grid on my printer, with hairlines spaced 1/16" apart vertically, and horizontally. I then loaded a Dremel engraving bit in my router (tip of bit is a very SHARP point, probably about .004" at tip). I then arrow keys in Mach to manually jog the machine until I had the bit pointing at the center of the 2"x2" grid, and lowered the Z using the Page Down key, until it was almost touching the grid. I then click the Zero X, Zero Y, Zero Z buttons in Mach to set the Zero reference point at it's current position. I changed to the MDI screen in Mach, and hit the Return or Enter key to activate the Manual coordinate entry field on the screen, and typed X1 Y1 and hit the enter key. This should have moved the machine to the X2 Y2 position on the grid (since I started at the CENTER of the 2"x2" grid which is actually at coordinates X1 Y1). This of course is the THEORY. The grid is useful for determining the REALITY. (I.E. after the move, go to the machine and look CLOSELY at exactly where the bit is now pointing on the grid- write this information down). Type X0 Y0 in Mach to return the machine to the Zero position. Goto the Settings page in Mach, and click on the Axis Calibration Set Steps per Unit button at the lower left of the screen. The default will be the X Axis. Click OK to accept the X, a box will open asking for the distance you wish to move, enter 1 and click OK. A similar box will then open, asking for the distance measured. This is where you enter the distance actually moved from your observation of the bit over the grid. Repeat these steps, for the Y Axis, and the Z Axis. (For the Z, it gets a little tricky, because you must tape it to a block of wood or some other vertical plane, and indicate from the bit to the grid with a square to actually read the distance traveled). All of this can get you in the ball park. But for absolute acuracy, you will later want to attach a dial indicator to a stationary block mounted on your table to get things tuned down to a gnat's A. Hope this helps! For more information, you should go to the Video Forum on the Machsupport page.

[HereinCS]

Please forgive this bonehead question....when I hit '1' in x axis calibration, my x axis goes way past the limits. How do I reduce this distance?

[adprinter]

About the limit switches. This can be a confusing point. I have two limit switches wired for each axis, but have learned that in reality what I actually have is one home switch, and one limit switch on each axis. The reason for this, is because the negative movement switch on the X, and the Y axis will always be the Home switch. The positive movement switch on the Z axis will always be the Home switch. It is the opposite end of travel which actually functions as a true "Limit switch". These switches should all be wired in series on each circuit (both switches for the X on one circuit, same for the Y, and for the Z). The circuit Logic can be set in Mach, (I.E. Normally Open, or Normally Closed switches). I highly recommend using the Normally Closed Logic settings (and switches) because it creates a self-diagnostics test for your machine. (If a break in the circuit wire happens, it will cause a Reset Error in Mach and stop the machine). In fact the Mach user's manual says that it is possible to wire ALL of these switches as a single input! This took me awhile to wrap my head around, but I now understand why they made that statement. Because during a Homing operation of the machine, you are only Homing ONE Axis at a time. When it contacts the switch, it backs off just enough to break contact with the switch, then continues the Homing operation with the next Axis, until all Axis have been Homed. This is a sequence which is always repeated during a Homing operation of the machine. Z first, Y second, X third, A fourth. Therefore, a single input actually COULD be used for ALL Axis limit switches! And since Mach doesn't care WHAT triggers a Reset error, it stops the machine ANYTIME ANY LIMIT SWITCH is contacted! One last note: TEST each limit switch you are using with an Ohm Meter to make certain that it is wired to match the circuit Logic you are using. If using the Normally Closed Logic, then the meter should read 0 ohms. If using the Normally Open Logic, then the meter should read infinity. This simple step will save you a lot of confusion, when setting things up in Mach. Good Luck!

[adprinter]

Try entering 0.01, or 0.001, what is your current Steps per Unit set at?
You should begin with 2000 steps per unit for most motors, and go from there.

[HereinCS]

Wow...did I fried my motor? I was running the calibration test and the motor got smoking hot and triggered an estop fault. Now it won't turn back on..I measured the resistance across one winding and it was 3, the other was only 1! I had the resistor set correctly on the EZG540 and everything! This sucks.

[Zygoat]

Machine looks great. These should help you get going.

ArtSoft USA - Documentation
ArtSoft USA - Videos

[neurofen]

nice, look s a bit like his meditation chamber in the star destroyer.

May the FORCE be with you, and your drill bits, always..

:bat: